Cornbreadxd

Ok, i'll see what your talking about but I figure I can get it out of the hood and then work on the rust in that area while the battery is in the back, along with a new hold down and battery tray, and it'll give me a better angle to kill all the spiders that have been living under the hood

I bought an optima battery and have had it under the hood for a while but the fit is kind of weird so I made a spacer to put in my tray to get a better fit but it's not the best solution so I want to relocate to the trunk. I looked online at kits and everything, but am I correct that to do the relocation I just need 2ga welding wire to go from the starter through the firewall and into the rear, splice(extend) the fusible link plug from under the hood through the same area and onto the battery, and a ground going to the trunk floor? I am going to have a simple box welded out of spare aluminum and bolt it to the trunk floor also. I figure with the weight in the back it would help a bit with the COG as well as solving my fitment problem.

ok I'ts running now, i think i was right about the cracks in the boot and i sealed it w/ sealent and electrical tape temporarily while i wait for new boots from courtesynissan. I also cleaned the TB and the AFM (QD Electrical Cleaner) because they were filled with carbon buildup so if anyone else has this problem those should be cleaned while everything is disconnected.

i was able to check the fuel pressure and it was fine, so im guessing its the rubber boot or a combination of that and the cone filter

ok so I read through a few threads, the manual, and the efi-bible and I think I have an idea of what is going on but im not for sure. The problem is just as stated in the title the car will start but the idle is weak and it dies almost instantly, if I give it some gas I can keep it alive but it's really rough and I get some whiteish smoke out of the tail. I have a l28e from a 83zx' and I think there maybe be some gaps forming in the rubber elbow due to it being old and the weather I had an idle issue before from this but was able to seal the cracks with sealent. also I have a cone filter and I know it needs to be replaced cause it's kinda dirty but would that cause the car to stall out instantly? I changed the oil, plugs, cleaned the dist rotor, cleaned alot of the connectors, replaced the fuel filter, and made sure my fusible links were ok but it's too dark/cold to look at the rubber elbow. Any other thoughts on what could be causing the problem? The car ran fine 3 days ago and I had it towed home from the gas station that night when it first started acting crazy.

i used eDead before on my other car for trunk work and its not that good, it has mylar backing and doesn't stick too good, it also peels off in extreme temps so for the people out west and down south i wouldn't reccomend it....but also for people in cold areas because it peels in cold temps too. It also leaves sticky residue all over the panels and your hands. I don't want to sound like I work for them but the secondskin stuff is the best hands down, if you don't want to spend the money the only other products would be RAAmat or the stuff from Cascade Audio but its almost the same price. Here is what i was doing on my other car before someone crashed into me on friday. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4274 It'd be worth it and really easy to apply deadner to the Z because there are alot of flat spaces its only annoying when you have to work w/ alot of contours, i'd do mine but i'd have to kill ALL the rust first . But depending on how much you want to deaden it 160sq ft is close to 70lbs. I used 80 for a hyundai elantra and didn't cover everything and did 2 layers in the trunk. So I think maybe 100sqft would do a 280z

i know this thread is kinda old but secondskin damplifier prois the best stuff to use imo, its thicker than anything else available. I used it for sound deadning my other car and it gives luxury car noise reduction. I haven't used any on the z but i've had good results with Frost King duct insulation also but i would put that over the damplifier. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

wow thats a nice z, i agree that its good to be patient, i bought the Z as a 2nd car to replace my car that was totaled but its become a learning experience so i'll know exactly what to look for when im able to buy another one or a 510.

--just an update i replaced my rotor and caliper today but have to wait till friday to replace the rotor on the passenger side. It was a PITA to get the hub off of the old rotor and i eventually required a hydraulic press. i also regreased/repacked the bearings and axle, this was my first time doing such an extensive job but the SEARCH bar( and fsm) makes everything easier. I'm kinda regretting replacing the brakes though because if i'd known it'd been this simple i'd spend the $$ on a big brake kit, maybe i'll do a rear disc conversion instead.

did you make sure the rubber elbow to the intake pipe doesn't have any cracks in it? mine did and it caused my car to idle really bad .

those are some nice pics

well thanks to the search tab i've found that i was sent the wrong caliper i've emailed the seller and am waiting for a response. i'm just going to go ahead and replace the passenger side and not worry about returning it, hopefully they really have the driver side caliper it only took 2 days to arrive too.

that is what i was thinking, that if I was able to get a south/west car that all the interior could be replaced with what I have now because there isn't any sun damage to my interior.

Im going to try and get into some welding classes and auto body stuff this summer and fall semester but I don't know if its a losing battle, I just figure I'd use the one now to learn the inner workings of the car and then do a restore on a LESS rusty Z. I guess i'd consider this my practice car although there is alot of the car that isn't rusted. But this is the damage. Excuse the dust/dirt its been raining and the car was last driven through a muddy road before the brakes went out on me. This is the main rust area, and when I took a flashlight to a mirror in this I see rust all inside the door in patches, The floor is decent and i can't see through it but the frame rails likely need to be replaced and i know the battery tray is an issue, i didn't post a pic but it looks like everyone that had tray rust when i searched that issue. I just don't know if I can save the car or just make it a daily driver/ parts car/ weld training vehicle. I did a search and found out about the Tabco body metal iirc but is that even going to work with a hole like that?

i think the piston could be rusted though, and i'd rather replace the caliper for now and rebuild the original after the car is road worthy again. so is this caliper worth buying or is there something missing from it i compared it with the fsm but this will be my first brake job on the z.