Webmanic70

I had mine zinc plated with the 'top lamp assembly' in place. The guy who did it said it was not necessary to remove. Turns out he was right, came out perfect and operates fine. Have a chat to your 'plater' about it.

Thanks. I did not see this thread and I could not find any mention of it in the service manual nor do any of the pictures/diagrams seem to show it.

I bought a set of Shelby Cal 500 (15x7) slotted rims, polished them and put them on the zed but do you think I can find a set of centre caps. Does anyone know where I could possibly start hunting for a set of these in the States (the cobra logo is not needed as I would put the 'z' on them)? 4 ear screw on caps - metal preferred.

I was putting the splash pan back on the car and noticed a u-bolt fixed around the gear housing with an extension on the clasp that housed a rubber bumper at the end that sits up against the central suspension member (see arrow in pic). Anyone else have this and know its purpose? The car is Sept 1970 RHD 240z build and the front end has never been dismantled.

I have it on my 1970 original carpet.

I am finally over the sag in the seats. The original Pirelli strapping supporting the seat base had basically melted and deformed over time. Therefore it was time to remove them and get them repaired. I managed to find a old school auto trimmer who worked a little magic and repaired a few rips as well. I kept the original foam (protected with hessian) and strapped it in a similar manner to the factory. I have replacement Pirelli strapping but decided to use modern nylon to avoid the same problem in the future. BEFORE AFTER It also gave me a chance to get a good look under the seat and the flooring. The original carpets and jute are in excellent condition and there was no rust (Jute is also exposed under the seats). Note that I am using the competition steering wheel while the timber one is being refurbished. Seats are back in the car and looking better than ever. Now I don't have to put a towel under the seat to feel comfortable.

I have done some touch up work on the engine. Trying hard to keep this thing stock. It seems like everyone here in Australia is upgrading everything to a point that you forget what they used to look like out of the factory. Below is how the engine looked when I first bought the car. It became a lot worse because I had it sitting idle for a few years and rats made a real mess of it. Lesson learnt - Don't neglect your Z as they can age fast

Hi guys. I recently bought some rubber seals from MSA (by Precision?) for when I do a respray of the body. However I thought I would replace the hood to cowl seal and found that it felt rather inferior to the original in size and quality. Is there another source for getting this seal that is closer to original? Image shows the difference in profile. The larger one is the original and the rubber is better quality. The shorter length of the other does not fix the greatest to the body edge fold.

I recently bought a Nissan keycase for my second set of keys and noted that the keycases of today have somewhat changed from the original including size and material. Refer images - the original 1970 case has the keys attached.

You may find that when you pull the cover off that the white plastic mast inside the antenna housing is broken. This will stop an antenna from retracting manual or otherwise.

Thanks Jim, I was trying to find who supplied the 'snazzy ends' in case this was my only choice. I take it your collection of originals are from a LHD? From what I can tell, the rod for the RHD zeds (zee's) are longer because the linkage is going to the other side of the car.

Adding to the list: 13. Clip adjacent the hood latch to hold the window washer tube. 14. Cable holder fixed to the engine mount to hold the cable to the oil pressure sender. 15 Rubber protector where headlight/indicator cables pass from under fender to in behind the front grille. 16 A plastic cable holder mounted to the fender below the coil

Note: This is regarding a 1970 RHD setup I had my throttle linkage assembly plated last week with a disastrous result. The cleaning agent used by the platers corroded the plastic socket joints which has made them useless. Is there anyway of repairing these or do I need to find some new rods? If so, are they reproduced or is it a case of getting searching for a secondhand set? Has anyone used throttle rods from another car such as the mercedes W107SL? (See Pic below) I also noticed that the linkage rod that runs parallel to the firewall came in different lengths? See pics below. The longer one is off my 1970 240z the other shorter one is off a later model 240z. Unfortunately this will make it even harder to find a replacement.

Hi Steve, I had a closer look at this grommet. It originally appears that there was no angle on this item. I pulled the cables to give them more slack and squeezed the end to close up the 'split' on mine and it seemed to be fairly straight. However I believe if you built them this way then it would only split again because the cables really need the angle which is probably why they changed the design. Below is a picture showing the length of the feeders for your reference.

I will have a closer look at mine and let you know if I think the angle was there at the outset. It would make sense if it was because the cables arc up and over to the connectors on the carbs. I was also going comment on the moulded lip. If I bought one similar to the sample shown, I would cut the lip off to make it look more authentic. The length also appears too long. I will therefore post another pic in the morning with the tape measure showing the exact length along the angled part. It will no doubt be another part added to the shopping list. Very impressed.