Webmanic70

Thanks guys. I guess they should be black but in the end I kept them as per how they had it from the factory on this car. I also notice that the engine images above are not as per my original motor. My crank pulley ( Harmonic balancer) is Nissan blue-green. Alternator pulley is black connected to cad (yellow zinc) plated fan.

Thanks Blue. That first image is what I needed as you can't see that when it is installed. It has also confirmed what I thought about the spring in the withdrawal lever. Someone has snipped the little returns off the ends which is annoying so I hope it still retains the lever on the pivot ball. I have ordered a new one off eBay but I not looking forward to re moving the whole transmission just to stick in a clip. I ended up assembling it all and sliding it in. Next time it will be a 1 minute job.

Shhh for crying out loud. Forget I said anything. I was putting the holder spring on backwards. Need to take a better look at this stuff when I pull it apart.

I am sitting in my engine bay, hands in the clutch housing and swearing my head off trying to install the bearing with the withdrawal lever using the holder spring. I am using the manual. It just says install the withdrawal lever, release bearing, and bearing sleeve, connect them with holder spring. How and in what order? I simply can't do it so I must be missing something. I can put it together out of the engine but not in the housing. Is there a technique? I have not done this before so be kind.

The two pics below are from my Aussie 1970 240z. They are the original fittings.

Hi guys, I have removed my engine for a stock rebuild on my 1970 240Z. The guys at nissan were in a hurry and sprayed the 'turquoise' (Nissan blue-green) engine block colour on all sorts of things. However the the engine brackets that are bolted to the block are two different colours- see pics. The right one is black and the left one is blue. What was meant to be the colour of these brackets on this car?

I plan to take it to the Motorfest on the 17th of this month and then I will give a more detailed rundown on the car . I have currently removed the engine to replace the bearings and rings so when i get it all back together I will take some more general photos and add it to the garage, (there are some interesting things in the engine bay as well). Nothing had been removed off the car until now. I will post a separate thread regarding the engine supports. I have owned the car for 5-6 years and bought it off the original owner. It was daily driver at Toowoomba up until 1992 when it was garaged. This means little rust (though it has some on the surface) and has done 90K miles. It has been under my house since 2007 and I have now decided to get her out and about after selling my other 240Z (HS30-000329). Hi Mike, Yes the glass is clear. The rear hatch (also stamped and original) is clear with no defroster. Note that the Nissan stamps read in reverse on the right hand side of the car like they are on the inside. The windsheild is also clear but there is no stamp so I believe it not to be the original. I place the car around September 1970 but it was purchased in December of 1970 from Margate in QLD. I was told it was one of the first five shipped into QLD for sale by Ira Berk who was the registered dealer at the time. I will post a more detailed history down the track. Hi Carl, My mum lives at Spring Hill down the road so I will be sure to say 'Hi' when next I come to the states. I come to Florida every couple of years to visit my mother and take a suitcase back of the all the spare parts I have purchased off Ebay. The engine number is 013021- see pic. I was planning to do it anyway because i noticed that you seem to be able to date the cars well off the block number. The other pic shows the unusual markings at the end of the head. I will also have a closer look at these seatbelts and post a separate thread - I think the stitching is also grey (not sure).

On my Aussie 1970 240z there is no washer. It is simply a small Phillips head screw that holds in the hook which are original. I will post some close photos tomorrow at work. I have the shorter plastic type.

Adding to the list: 7. Small rubber splash guard inside front fender where fender connects to chassis. Picture coming. There is also a bitumous material along the seam to stop road muck getting in behind the fender (is this stock?). 8. Velcro tabs can be found behind the original deck mat to hold it in place. A cut out is created in in the jute for the other velcro tab. 9. Nissan markings on all the original glass 10. Foam inserts fixed in the rear quarter panels. 11. Small clip connecting the choke and throttle cables in the engine bay. 12. Original factory plastic over the rear dogleg panels. These were also on the sunvisors when i bought the car but I removed them for obvious reasons. I also have silvery grey factory seatbelts (not black), not sure why they used them on this car. Anyway that is probably enough for now. I could keep going but where do you stop.

I am an idiot. I have that book in the library, it is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Dan for the reminder and tHe thoughts on the slip clutch.

Hi Guys, I am currently doing a minor refurbishment of my 1970 240Z (HS30-00084) and have noticed little things around the car that I have not seen mentioned much and thought I would post some thoughts because these are the sort of things that get missed during a restoration. 1. The wire looms going through ther radiator wall are protected by a rubber/plastic ring around the opening. You will also notice the radiator mount was painted by hand in black behind the grille in a very rough way. 2. Rubber grommet and end protector to the motorised aerial drainage tube under rear guard 3. cables running under the car are also connected together with plastic separator clips. Not just the radiator and coil cables etc in the engine bay. 4. Yellow factory marking to many bolt heads. There are also other coded colours and marks as well splattered around under this car. I also have a green and yellow marking on the back of the head facing the firewall. 5. Chrome fender mirrors similar to the door mirror. These seem particularaly rare as I have not seen them around but i know them to be original stock. 6. Flat profile dust caps to the original steel wheels. 7. Small rubber splash guard inside front fender where fender connects to chassis. Picture coming. There is also a bitumous material along the seam to stop road muck getting in behind the fender (is this stock?). There are others. I will add to the thread as they come to me and I get some pictures. Feel free to add your own. Let me know if want me to check out anything you are curious about and may not have on your car because this one is a fairly early original survivor.

I know the antenna mast has been covered in many threads but I have a question that is probably to simple to mention and I do not want to get it wrong because these things are irreplaceable. I want to know what stops the aerial mast when it is in the fully extended or retracted position. The end is connected to the drum using a splitpin, if the winder keeps going then would the plastic cord not snap or is it strong enough to stop the drum from turning? Like most people my mast has snapped some time back on my 1970 240z. I pulled it from the car to replace the mast with an exact NOS replacement (on Ebay about 5 years ago if your wondering). The motor in the antenna is pristine, no dust or dirt and looks almost new. I removed the old broken mast and aerial. I have then threaded the new mast into the guide and around the drum, but the hole for the split pin which holds the end of the mast to the drum is in the wrong location from where I last stopped the winder. Therefore should I fully extend the aerial and simply connect the end where the splitpin is currently located and let the winder do the rest or wind it to a set location and then connect the mast? Hope this makes sense.

Oh and if you planning an accurate reproduction then the paint on the splash pan is hand brushed and in low sheen (not gloss) similar to radiator support.

Just thought I would add to this. I have an untouched 1970 240z with original paint. There are parts that are turquoise (what is referred as Nissan Blue above) on mine that differed from the list include the following: - The rear block water pipe - 3 way water pipe connector including bolt head to block - hose clamps to pipe connector. Not the one to the heater hose - hose clamps either end of hose from connector to water inlet housing - not sure about The head water pipe T fitting The splash pan and the fuel filter bracket are also black.

I own HS30-00089 240z. It was bought and registered in QLD back in Dec 1970. It is still completely original and was sold with the chrome fender mirrors. These are not the bullet variety but look similar to the US door chrome mirror except that the stalks are angled left and right to suit the fender position. I have not seen them on any other zed car.

I managed to have retained both original key sets for my 240Z with the wallet issued from Nissan when the car was bought in 1970. The case is leather with a plastic printed coating with a Hato-Hasi catch. Craig

Anyone know who supplies quality engine gasket sets for two early 240 zeds. I am basically wanting to know which brand is has the better quality product in their kits as I need to ship them to Australia and I do not want to risk a brand that is just not up to scratch. The US brands are a bit unknown here so any advice is appreciated. If anyone in Australia knows where I can get a set here then let me know. Nissan were of little help and the local zed man makes his own? Craig