lking240

View Advert 2 sets of door skins, 1 black 1 brown Hi all, I have 2 sets of door skins if anyone might be interested in these. I can send more pics if interested. Both sets are in fair condition with some damage obviously on the black ones because someone had the bright idea of cutting a hole for speakers. ? the brown ones are dirty and have some cuts damage on edges. Advertiser lking240 Date 04/03/2019 Price $50.00 Category Parts for Sale

Av8ferg - your advice worked - I was able to pull the rod out of the plastic housing and reinsert with the new handle mounted. Thank you!

pics attached, first shows the break in the handle, the second shows where the rod goes down past the connector to the door lever. The door lock does not function properly (the push rod on the door doesn't close/open the lock) nor does the key lock work well (it turns, but doesn't lock) but the inside pull lever works well, so I'm thinking I might want to dive in and try to rehab the entire system, both sides. z door handle.pdf

Donor is same side door from my previous 72 240 that has gone to z heaven but not before I stripped it bare. was hesitant to break the plastic connectors but will consider that. I’m thinking of cutting the end off the rod so it will fit and maybe put a plastic washer after the existing “plastic screw thingy”. Will post pics later if interested.

hi all, my driver's side door handle snapped right at what appears to be a weld seam on the portion of the door handle that is curved and then attaches to the rod that pushes the door latch open when you pull the door handle up. I've got a donor handle and rod with the plastic piece that fits into the small hole/lever on the door latch inside the door, but I can't seem to be able to get the rod to fit because it's too long and the angle doesn't work after fiddling with it for an hour last night. I was wondering if anyone has done this before and if they found it necessary to remove the entire window sash and door latch in order to fit the rod into the proper hole. Hope this makes sense. I don't have pics handy but can post shortly if needed. Thanks for any thoughts on this, I searched but didn't see anything addressing this specific issue.

fashioned a vac/pressure gauge to put in cylinder 1 spark plug hole, remote start bumped it until the marks were close to the pointer, then hand turned the crank until the vac/pressure gauge went back and forth to home in on TDC, and then looked into cylinder 1 through spark plug hole and it was right there. Please tell me if I am missing something. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Hello all, I would be interested in feedback from the forum about how the timing marks are lining up on my 72 240. I found TDC for piston 1 and the pointer is aiming "below" the first mark, see pic. My understanding is the lowest/first mark on the crank should line up with the pointer when cylinder 1 is TDC and 0 degree advance. i have a stock set-up and considering upgrading to electornic ignition module pertronix II. the distributor looks to be advanced about 1/2 way looking at the lines on the body of the distributor, but if the pointer is accurate then could it actually be retarded ~8 degrees? thank you for any insights.

update: got the bolt from MSA, had to wrestle the lock washer off, but a slight amount of blue locktite, was able to get about one good 1/2 turn on the bolt and it seems to be working!. time will tell. in the process I went ahead and replaced the clutch hard line, the original connection at the slave hose had to be cut because I couldn't get the line connector to budge. had what I thought was a new functional MC that I had bought several years ago but it ended up being bad. stupidly didn't bench test it properly. wore out my 6 year-old's leg pumping the clutch! ? and so it finally all worked with the original MC in the car once I got the lines tight. next on the list, taking it to a Weber guy to see if he can make it stop fouling the plugs. good times. thanks again,

I hear you, thanks. Will keep you all posted, appreciate the input.

Will try that, thanks a lot.

Got the new bolt, the threads are a bit stripped at the opening such that with the lock washer I can’t get it to grip enough. Going to see if I can get a slightly longer bolt. Thanks again for the input.

You are correct, There are threads! Thanks guys. Ordered bolt and new slave, hopefully it’ll work!

Thanks for the replies! I am looking further at it later today and will see if the threads are there. I hope so!

Thank you. I am puzzled by the bolt orientation as you note I don’t know why they are not screwing into the housing, it’s a standard 4 speed transmission as far as I know. Will pursue the tap approach I think.

yesterday was a good day and a very bad day. Took the z to get my restored enkei's put on (pic attached) and the clutch slave cylinder failed in parking lot when I arrived. after putting a new one in haste I didn't tighten down one of the carriage bolts (other pic, pre screw up) that comes out of the transmission housing and it ended up being sucked up into the flywheel when I turned it over and luckily I was able to get it out with the help of a scope and flex magnet but now the 1 bolt doesn't hold the cylinder properly so I need to get new bolts and have them installed. Other option I suppose is tap a bolt where the original one was. Would welcome thoughts on the matter and if anyone knows where to procure these bolts of if someone has some good condition used ones I could purchase. thanks for your consideration. LKing240