lking240

View Advert 2 sets of door skins, 1 black 1 brown Hi all, I have 2 sets of door skins if anyone might be interested in these. I can send more pics if interested. Both sets are in fair condition with some damage obviously on the black ones because someone had the bright idea of cutting a hole for speakers. ? the brown ones are dirty and have some cuts damage on edges. Advertiser lking240 Date 04/03/2019 Price $50.00 Category Parts for Sale

Av8ferg - your advice worked - I was able to pull the rod out of the plastic housing and reinsert with the new handle mounted. Thank you!

pics attached, first shows the break in the handle, the second shows where the rod goes down past the connector to the door lever. The door lock does not function properly (the push rod on the door doesn't close/open the lock) nor does the key lock work well (it turns, but doesn't lock) but the inside pull lever works well, so I'm thinking I might want to dive in and try to rehab the entire system, both sides. z door handle.pdf

Donor is same side door from my previous 72 240 that has gone to z heaven but not before I stripped it bare. was hesitant to break the plastic connectors but will consider that. I’m thinking of cutting the end off the rod so it will fit and maybe put a plastic washer after the existing “plastic screw thingy”. Will post pics later if interested.

hi all, my driver's side door handle snapped right at what appears to be a weld seam on the portion of the door handle that is curved and then attaches to the rod that pushes the door latch open when you pull the door handle up. I've got a donor handle and rod with the plastic piece that fits into the small hole/lever on the door latch inside the door, but I can't seem to be able to get the rod to fit because it's too long and the angle doesn't work after fiddling with it for an hour last night. I was wondering if anyone has done this before and if they found it necessary to remove the entire window sash and door latch in order to fit the rod into the proper hole. Hope this makes sense. I don't have pics handy but can post shortly if needed. Thanks for any thoughts on this, I searched but didn't see anything addressing this specific issue.

fashioned a vac/pressure gauge to put in cylinder 1 spark plug hole, remote start bumped it until the marks were close to the pointer, then hand turned the crank until the vac/pressure gauge went back and forth to home in on TDC, and then looked into cylinder 1 through spark plug hole and it was right there. Please tell me if I am missing something. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Hello all, I would be interested in feedback from the forum about how the timing marks are lining up on my 72 240. I found TDC for piston 1 and the pointer is aiming "below" the first mark, see pic. My understanding is the lowest/first mark on the crank should line up with the pointer when cylinder 1 is TDC and 0 degree advance. i have a stock set-up and considering upgrading to electornic ignition module pertronix II. the distributor looks to be advanced about 1/2 way looking at the lines on the body of the distributor, but if the pointer is accurate then could it actually be retarded ~8 degrees? thank you for any insights.

update: got the bolt from MSA, had to wrestle the lock washer off, but a slight amount of blue locktite, was able to get about one good 1/2 turn on the bolt and it seems to be working!. time will tell. in the process I went ahead and replaced the clutch hard line, the original connection at the slave hose had to be cut because I couldn't get the line connector to budge. had what I thought was a new functional MC that I had bought several years ago but it ended up being bad. stupidly didn't bench test it properly. wore out my 6 year-old's leg pumping the clutch! ? and so it finally all worked with the original MC in the car once I got the lines tight. next on the list, taking it to a Weber guy to see if he can make it stop fouling the plugs. good times. thanks again,

I hear you, thanks. Will keep you all posted, appreciate the input.

Will try that, thanks a lot.

Got the new bolt, the threads are a bit stripped at the opening such that with the lock washer I can’t get it to grip enough. Going to see if I can get a slightly longer bolt. Thanks again for the input.

You are correct, There are threads! Thanks guys. Ordered bolt and new slave, hopefully it’ll work!

Thanks for the replies! I am looking further at it later today and will see if the threads are there. I hope so!

Thank you. I am puzzled by the bolt orientation as you note I don’t know why they are not screwing into the housing, it’s a standard 4 speed transmission as far as I know. Will pursue the tap approach I think.

yesterday was a good day and a very bad day. Took the z to get my restored enkei's put on (pic attached) and the clutch slave cylinder failed in parking lot when I arrived. after putting a new one in haste I didn't tighten down one of the carriage bolts (other pic, pre screw up) that comes out of the transmission housing and it ended up being sucked up into the flywheel when I turned it over and luckily I was able to get it out with the help of a scope and flex magnet but now the 1 bolt doesn't hold the cylinder properly so I need to get new bolts and have them installed. Other option I suppose is tap a bolt where the original one was. Would welcome thoughts on the matter and if anyone knows where to procure these bolts of if someone has some good condition used ones I could purchase. thanks for your consideration. LKing240

Thanks

Hi all, I've searched various z forums and haven't run across anyone with experience with this wheel issue so here goes- if anyone has Enkei 92s 14inch with 15mm offset can you let me know if you needed to use any spacers to prevent the wheel from rubbing on the strut or anything else on a 72 240z? Thanks, Lisle

Email sent, thanks a lot. My # is 203-980-1391 if we could talk I can call you at your convenience.

Hi all, I'm trying to source 4 black mesh Enkei 92s for my 72 240z and it seems that the only ones available readily in 15x7 have an offset of 38 which doesn't fit. Why then does Enkei tease us with this sort of ad when it appears these wheels won't fit? If anyone has ideas about how to source these wheels I would be most grateful. Thanks. Lking240

that's great, thanks for checking. I think I'm going to ask for a refund or at least exchange for something else, then order the 2 from MSA so that at least I'll have the same manufacturer for both.

Thanks again. Do you remember if yours were the "former" or "new" style. I think I have a case for an exchange or return because as I understand it, both should be the "former" type, but the ones I bought although labeled for 70-76, are of the "new" type. Very interesting re: the VINs. How did you know that? The registry?

Thanks for your reply. I bought it from Redat on Ebay. He sells a ton of z stuff, has been ok in previous purchases, but I made the mistake of not calling around first...The description was they would fit between 70 and 76 but now discovering that's not the case. Lesson learned... Call to MSA was separate, after I discovered the cylinders were different. I've attached a pic of the ones I pulled from the car. The two I purchased are both like the one on the left. The "New" design according to description in Humble. I think I have a case with getting a return on both as from what it says in Humble, prior to 9/72 the "former" design was used on both. I checked with the guy I bought the car from (second owner) and he said that he never modified them. I suppose something might have happened to the left one that lead the original owner to modify. Thanks again.

meant to attach page from Humble. The "former" design is on the right wheel and the "new" is on the left. Brake Page from Humble.pdf

Hello all, I've been lurking for a year or so since I bought a 2/72 z and I've come up with a question that after searching the site don't seem to see an answer so sorry if I missed a previous post that answers this. The issue is I'm replacing the rear wheel cylinders and the rear right is of a different design than the rear left. I Humble's book he says that the design was changed in 9/72, but he doesn't say that this change was specific to only one side. The person I purchased the new cylinders from said he never heard of just one side being different. MSA said that the rear right is different so I'm just doing a bit more due diligence to work this out with the person I bought the cylinders from. Thanks,