Lephosto

I'll take two 0f the 280z if that helps. Not interested in the DATSUN though. Hope that will help! GO 280!

I agree. And to think of how the surviving girl must feel when she is told her two friends have passed. And that poor car...

She is so sexy!!! I want her! And I guess the girl in the bikini is alright too....

And now it goes down again!! Driving it along, charge light flashes on the voltage meter, and then the car dies. I get it started again by stepping on the gas but now a nice black smoke is bellowing from it....

Well, I got it running again. Traced some wires to the started and one that looked like it had been spliced and wrapped with electrical tape had corroded away inside the tape and was no longer making a connection. Fixed that and it started right up again! -sigh- Now all I have to do is figure out why there are so many loose wires....

Appreciate the link lmcguffin. I now know the fuses are pretty much all wrong. Makes me wonder if when I put in the right ones if they will blow immediately. This is a picture I took of the mess. The wires confuse me and I get lost easily since some of them have been spliced with other colors. And thanks for the advice MikeW the only thing is, is that it already won't start...I had automatically had concluded it was an electrical issue since I have worked on other parts. Perhaps I was wrong to jump so quickly...

okay! I am really slow so please bear with me. Is this the right setting to check with? If so, I got everything checked then! Left Side .0 .0 .0 .14 .0 .0 .0 Right Side .0 .0 10.4 .0 .60 .0 .0 And when I disconnected the Negative side from the battery and then used that setting to check, it came up with 12.1. If this isn't the right setting maybe someone can tell me which one to use?

I had pulled out the fuses and thats when I took the readings. As to say, I pulled out the fuses one at a time and while it was out, connected the multimeter to where the fuse would be and those were the readings I got.

So finally got a hold of a multimeter and I don't know much about electrical. So I went outside and began to get information from my car... unfortunately I didn't have the idea of coming back up here and checking to see what you had told me to try . Instead I did volts instead of amp across the fuses and battery. Does that work? Is there a diagram that will tell me what each fuse is for and what the fuse is supposed to be? I'm pretty sure some of the fuses in their are wrong and I tried to write down what they are and how many volts were going across them when the car was off. So I hope this helps, the first number is what I think the fuse is.... and the second was the voltage across from it. Please be patient with me, I have't worked with fuses yet so I hope I got the right info. In this order: (Left set of fuses) 250v - .1 mV 10a 32v - .1 mV 250v - 13.9 mV 250v - 13.6 mV 20a 32v - 2.8 mV 30a 32v - 1.2 mV 250v - 2.1 mV (Right Side) 15a 32v - 9.6 mV 250v - 20 mV 250v - 11.7 V 32 v - 18.1 mV 250 v - 12.14V 20a 32v - .5 mV 1-1/2a 32v - 0 mV I'll go back out tomorrow to gather the information in amps. Hopefully this will help though.

What should it read when I test the fuses?

I never thought of pulling the fuses one by one to figure out which one was causing the problems!! It seems so simple and yet has completely evaded me !! Thanks for idea, I will certainly do this as soon as I get the meter. Thanks a lot!

So, where to start? I know theres a short somewhere in the car because if I let it sit for about a week, it needs to be jumped. The Windshield wipers, when connected, don't turn of. And I have just had to replace the voltage regulator and now the alternator and now a fairly brand new starter is down too. Not sure if one caused the other but any advice on whats causing the damage? Or is it just bad luck!? Ehh.... A little more detail I guess wouldn't hurt. I had an issue with the voltage meter maxing out randomly which lead me to replace the voltage regulator. That seemed to fix the problem. I then let it sit for maybe a month and it wouldn't start. Could hear the fuel pump working but it wasn't turning over. I had an alternator in my room (Bought at the same time I got the voltage regulator) so I put it in. Took the old one to get tested and it failed. Still wouldn't start, so I shorted the solenoid and it started right up... Just figured I would replace the who starter. Am I going about this wrong? I have been replacing and finding parts that seem to be bad but am I missing the bigger picture?

Well, its been a long time since I have had the time to sit down and actually do anything leisurely! Here's an update! Mechanical issues are down to a minimum and by that I mean it runs, but it could be running better. My biggest issue is that I need a new wiring harness as when my dad was younger he thought of himself as an electrician and made his own wire additions and short cuts to keep the vehicle running as it got old. Currently only the high beams work, tachometer is broken, the inside is a mess of wires, and when I look I can see a number of splices and added on ends. I have the heavy-duty head light harness and plan on putting that on soon to hopefully fix the headlight issue. I also recently changed out the starter and am going to change out the alternator and voltage regulator (as soon as I can find the thing!) Changing those out in hopes of fixing a NEW problem. When I am on the gas, the voltage gauge starts to max out in consistently but frequently. There's a lot of work to be done but I feel I am getting closer. I did get it painted so I could at least have it look nice and get some of the attention it needed to the body. If anyone ones got any advice I'd appreciate it! Oh and that would be my room mate sitting in the car... He recently kicked a wire to my ignition and I couldn't find the issue... Had to pay $168 to get it towed and fixed :-(. That could have been parts money ...

Alright. The vehicle is getting moved tomorrow. It will hopefully do a short stay at my parents house and then be put into the next shop who hopefully will be more knowledgeable about the car and its problems. Currently trying to get some pictures of the cars engine. And still no word on the sensor.

I'm trying hard to remember, but I think it has always ran rich (since I got it) and I remember the Thermostat housing had started to leak and I had to fix it... but if what I read was right and the water temp sensor is connected to the housing, I cant recall seeing it (or them?). If I'm thinking of the wrong thing or area, please let me know.

I'll have to look into that. I appreciate the help. Out of all the reading and advice I have gotten, I 've never heard of that sensor. Thanks again. Ummm... just one last question... is it possible for it to run without that sensor?

Okay, I'm sorry for calling them by different names. The shop I took it too didn't claim to know everything about my car but offered to help and try. They only knew the parts as "Mass Air Flow Meter and CPU" and I don't feel like trying to correct the people who are going to be working on my car. Oh, and they ordered parts and attached them, but when it didn't fix the issue, they sent them back and didn't charge me for them. After all is said and done I got charged $209 for 2 hours of labor, a new tire, a fuel pump and new spark plugs. I think it was a fair price for all the work the attempted. Oh, And I'd love to work on my car, only thing is I am currently deployed and so I am unable to. When I was in the states though it was haveing trouble with power. When I would first start it up in the morning, it would run great but about ten minuets later it would slow down. Bad ECU would run basic programed settings first before it takes information from the Air Flow meter right? Gas Pump has just been replaced but had been working before, no visible fuel leaks, all new fuel filters (I added one into the fuel line because the gas tank was old and I was worried about it throwing crap into the engine) and fuel injectors were just repalced so SHOULD be good. I never messed with the EGR valve but I didn't think that would have affected it like that. I also replaced the air filter, and tried to replace all the vaccum lines I could get around too. Maybe low oil preasure?? Anyways, currently the car is just having a problem trying to idle. Hopefully this will help clear things up. I replaced other things too like the water pump but I didn't think it was important to mention...

Well, I found a few shops but right now I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a newer computer that is compatible with the Z? I think my computer is bad, and if I have to replace it, I'd like to replace with something a bit newer. Anyone try this? Or is it even possible?

Anyone know a good trustable shop that would do a restoration for me? Perferably in the Las Vegas area. Also, My car has been a shop for a few months now, and the problem still hasn't been fixed. It is choking out. The Mass Air Flow meter was replaced, and I've replaced air filters, fuel filters, most questionable hoses, PVC valve, Distributor, and more that I can't remember at the time. I'm thinking that the CPU might be bad, but would it at least run? Its a '77 280z. The fuel injectors were all replaced a while back so I don't think its them either. I'm running out of ideas and things to replace! Could low oil preasure cause this?

Anyone know a good trustable shop that would do a restoration for me? Perferably in the Las Vegas area.

Heres the story! I have spent some money on my 1977 280z to get it running and I'd hate to give it up for lost. I don't have any pictures of it, which is just due to bad timing. I am in the military and got deployed rather soon after I got my car. Now, I have looked over the car and the body seems to be in decent condition. Some minor rust on the outside (it was sanded down in prep to paint it but was never painted so a few spots went exposed and naturally rusted over). The biggest rust though is in the engine bay. Where the battery would sit over, it looks like battery acid was trying to eat the metal. Also, I noticed that along the hatch on either side of the car roughly where the hinges , there are cracks in the paint and almost looks like it might have been cracked in the metal once... In the end, the real question is should i bother painting it? If I had someone take it to a shop to be painted would they tell me if it was worth it? I'd like to get it completly stripped down and painted...anyone know who could do a good job in the Las Vegas area? I know its very vauge. Perhaps if someone is in the Las Vegas and knows what they are looking for, can take a look for me (the car would be at my parents house) ????

Alright, just signed in and here is my Introduction!! My name is Danny Martinez, and I am cuerrently stationed at Fort Hood, Texas. I own a 1977, 280z thats in need of A LOT of work!!! Currently, I'm trying to bring the car up its old running standard, without worrying about its looks. So far, so good... I guess. It has still alot of problems but it runs and is reliable. I had to pay about 2k to get it running and another 600 for a new radiator to be put in one the old one finaly went (about 500 miles after the engine was fixed). The car had previously sat for probably about 15 years if not more. If any one has in small hints or tricks that I can do to the car or check the car for to help improve how it runs, I'd appreciate them. Anyways, Hello people! I hope to get to know alot of you, and use you all for your knowledge of the Z! -Danny