AlexS13

Your engine build sounds great. I built a similar set up for my z. F54 L28 block...stock bore P79 .080 shave...mild porting on the intake runners Web camshaft regrind...260 duration, 238 @.050 Roundtop SU's with SM needles and k&n filters 6-2-1 header with 2.5" exhaust My setup made 181hp/184tq on a dynojet dyno.

Jeff, I'm running SU's on my L28.

I'am also running a Web Cams #91 re grind on my 10:1 L28. Very happy with it, pulls hard to 7k no problem.

For my particular setup I have noticed an improvement by doing this. The engine under light load / part throttle driving is much more responsive.

I have capped off the vacuum port on the front carb and run my vacuum advance to the balance tube.

Count me in aswell!

I had one hell of a time getting my RT mount in aswell, it was a very tight fit. One thing I would suggest doing as a safety precaution would be to measure the rotating torque of the pinion before removing the nut and tighten to the same spec. While doing my r200 swap I replaced my pinion flange seal and even made a punch mark on the nut before removal so I could re install to the same mark, but I decided to ignore the mark I made and follow the torque spec in the fsm which resulted in the nut being about 1/8th of a turn tighter and with in a few days of driving I had a nice humming diff. The pinion bearings were toast so out came the diff again for a rebuild!

Looking forward to the pics of the conversion. You will notice a big improvement going to the 3.90! If you like hwy driving I will definetly recommend a 5spd swap with that gear ratio.

I too have been dealing with some pinging issues with my engine. Its a F54 L28 with a P79 head shaved .080 I cannot seem to run more than about 10 degrees (set at 1000rpm idle) without getting pinging with 94octane. I tried NGK bp7's but I didn't really notice much improvement. I may in the future change to a thicker headgasket to get me closer to about 9.5:1 because this pinging issue is driving me crazy. I have backed off the timing a few degrees to the point where it does not ping at all. I hate the feeling of driving and knowing that your right on the edge of pinging, I just cannot enjoy driving my car that way. I recently have installed a knock sensor to monitor knock via a LED light. The knock sensor I mounted in the factory location on the P79 and wired up the module and LED light that comes in the kit. The reason I did this is because I have aftermarket McKinney motor mounts and the cabin noise gets quite loud so it makes it almost impossible to hear ping happening, it's more for piece of mind than anything. The unit is programmable so you have to set the threshold for the LED light. This might be something you guys can look into. Engine knock detection and indication for all vehicles

It is normal to have some black soot build up on the exhaust runners but if it looks wet/greasy as you describe that might indicate leaky valve seals.

I'am running a Web Camshaft in my L28. Very happy with it!

Thank you very much for the info. I will definetly take it to a shop to get this done.

Chas, thank you for that tip. I tried backing off the nut and putting it to it's original position but when I do this the nut is almost loose at it's original position. It almost seems like the bearing has collapsed? I think I'am going to go ahead and replace the pinion bearings. Does anyone have nissan part numbers for the front and rear pinion bearings?

I had this exact same situation happen to me. I cut the pin as you did so I can separate the spindle from the control arm and took it to a local garage to press it out. To my surprise even with using the press we couldn't get the pin to come out. While the press was applying pressure on the pin we heated the outside of the spindle ALOT, almost to the point where it was starting to glow red and it finally broke free and came out. Goodluck with it, let us know how you make out!

I recently swapped in a R200 into my 240z and to my surprise it was very smooth and quiet. I did notice the pinion seal leaking quite badly so I decided to replace it. I searched and read multiple posts regarding the pinion nut torque because I was nervous about the bearing preload. I decided to follow the fsm and torque it to 140ft/lbs. Before I took the nut off I marked the nut and the pinion shaft so I can use that as reference when I re-install the nut. I torqued the nut to 140ft/lbs and noticed that the mark i put on the nut was about a 1/4 turn past the mark on the pinion shaft (1/4 turn tighter than it was originally). Now the issue I have is that I'm getting a humming sound from the rear end. It sounds just like a bad wheel bearing. I'm assuming this has to do something with the pinion nut being a 1/4 turn too tight? My understanding from what I have read is that these diff's do not use a crush sleeve to set pinion preload? I'm not too sure what to do from here...replace pinion bearings? any help would be appreciated.