AlexS13

Your engine build sounds great. I built a similar set up for my z. F54 L28 block...stock bore P79 .080 shave...mild porting on the intake runners Web camshaft regrind...260 duration, 238 @.050 Roundtop SU's with SM needles and k&n filters 6-2-1 header with 2.5" exhaust My setup made 181hp/184tq on a dynojet dyno.

Jeff, I'm running SU's on my L28.

I'am also running a Web Cams #91 re grind on my 10:1 L28. Very happy with it, pulls hard to 7k no problem.

For my particular setup I have noticed an improvement by doing this. The engine under light load / part throttle driving is much more responsive.

I have capped off the vacuum port on the front carb and run my vacuum advance to the balance tube.

Count me in aswell!

I had one hell of a time getting my RT mount in aswell, it was a very tight fit. One thing I would suggest doing as a safety precaution would be to measure the rotating torque of the pinion before removing the nut and tighten to the same spec. While doing my r200 swap I replaced my pinion flange seal and even made a punch mark on the nut before removal so I could re install to the same mark, but I decided to ignore the mark I made and follow the torque spec in the fsm which resulted in the nut being about 1/8th of a turn tighter and with in a few days of driving I had a nice humming diff. The pinion bearings were toast so out came the diff again for a rebuild!

Looking forward to the pics of the conversion. You will notice a big improvement going to the 3.90! If you like hwy driving I will definetly recommend a 5spd swap with that gear ratio.

I too have been dealing with some pinging issues with my engine. Its a F54 L28 with a P79 head shaved .080 I cannot seem to run more than about 10 degrees (set at 1000rpm idle) without getting pinging with 94octane. I tried NGK bp7's but I didn't really notice much improvement. I may in the future change to a thicker headgasket to get me closer to about 9.5:1 because this pinging issue is driving me crazy. I have backed off the timing a few degrees to the point where it does not ping at all. I hate the feeling of driving and knowing that your right on the edge of pinging, I just cannot enjoy driving my car that way. I recently have installed a knock sensor to monitor knock via a LED light. The knock sensor I mounted in the factory location on the P79 and wired up the module and LED light that comes in the kit. The reason I did this is because I have aftermarket McKinney motor mounts and the cabin noise gets quite loud so it makes it almost impossible to hear ping happening, it's more for piece of mind than anything. The unit is programmable so you have to set the threshold for the LED light. This might be something you guys can look into. Engine knock detection and indication for all vehicles

It is normal to have some black soot build up on the exhaust runners but if it looks wet/greasy as you describe that might indicate leaky valve seals.

I'am running a Web Camshaft in my L28. Very happy with it!

Thank you very much for the info. I will definetly take it to a shop to get this done.

Chas, thank you for that tip. I tried backing off the nut and putting it to it's original position but when I do this the nut is almost loose at it's original position. It almost seems like the bearing has collapsed? I think I'am going to go ahead and replace the pinion bearings. Does anyone have nissan part numbers for the front and rear pinion bearings?

I had this exact same situation happen to me. I cut the pin as you did so I can separate the spindle from the control arm and took it to a local garage to press it out. To my surprise even with using the press we couldn't get the pin to come out. While the press was applying pressure on the pin we heated the outside of the spindle ALOT, almost to the point where it was starting to glow red and it finally broke free and came out. Goodluck with it, let us know how you make out!

I recently swapped in a R200 into my 240z and to my surprise it was very smooth and quiet. I did notice the pinion seal leaking quite badly so I decided to replace it. I searched and read multiple posts regarding the pinion nut torque because I was nervous about the bearing preload. I decided to follow the fsm and torque it to 140ft/lbs. Before I took the nut off I marked the nut and the pinion shaft so I can use that as reference when I re-install the nut. I torqued the nut to 140ft/lbs and noticed that the mark i put on the nut was about a 1/4 turn past the mark on the pinion shaft (1/4 turn tighter than it was originally). Now the issue I have is that I'm getting a humming sound from the rear end. It sounds just like a bad wheel bearing. I'm assuming this has to do something with the pinion nut being a 1/4 turn too tight? My understanding from what I have read is that these diff's do not use a crush sleeve to set pinion preload? I'm not too sure what to do from here...replace pinion bearings? any help would be appreciated.

This is exactly what I did to get my correct lash pad size. I initially ordered a .160 pad and did my wipe test but it was off so I had some old feeler guages that I cut up and used as shims along with my .160 pad until I got my correct size based on the wipe pattern. Goodluck!

I remember doing this when building my motor aswell. It is a very tight fit so you have to be patient and take your time. Also don't forget about the sealant this is very important! When the crank is in and torqued down it should spin over with very minimal effort (no rods/pistons connected) if you feel like its binding or resisting you have a problem.

As Diseazd said, you should regrind your stock nissan cam. The durability of the oem nissan cam is much better than the new billet cams. I myself sent my cam to a company called Web Cams and had them regrind my stock cam. You have to be careful with the base circle of the cam after the regrind, some regrind's are able to maintain the stock base circle measurement, in my case the base circle ended up being smaller so I had to compensate with thicker lash pads in order to get the correct "wipe pattern" on the rocker arms.

I've got an update for you guys! I recieved my centerforce stage 1 clutch last week and proceeded to remove my transmission. I was happy to see that the rear main seal was completely dry and I had no signs of oil anywhere. The flywheel had alot of heat score marks on it and was also slightly warped causing the clutch disk to not make complete contact with the flywheel. This was visible by looking at the clutch disk, there were dark patches in the friction material where it wasn't making contact. I sent out the flywheel to get machined and I just finished installing the new clutch tonight. I made my free play adjustments and took the car for a drive. Wow what a difference! The pedal feel is definitely stiffer than the stock clutch but I wouldn't consider it harsh at all. It seems to have alot more "bite" aswell while engaging. I'm making my comparision to a faulty slipping clutch so that may be part of the reason I can notice such a drastic improvement. Overall I'am 100% satisfied with the centerforce and would recommend it to anyone who's looking for a new clutch.

Here's mine.

I did use the 240z collar. I literally took everything off the L24/4spd tranny including the collar and clutch fork and swapped it over to the L28/5spd tranny. I have ordered a 240z centerforce 1 clutch kit from msa which uses a 280z collar. I will keep you guys posted as to what happens when I get that installed.

Well, I played with the free play at the clutch master and I also confirmed I had the proper amount of free play between the clutch fork and slave cylinder rod. I went for a drive and it was no different. I was hoping for an improvement but it was slipping just as bad.

Leon and Lazeum, thanks for the explanation. I think it's safe to say my issue isn't weird since the slippage I'am seeing is occuring in higher gear under load where the clutch is most likely to slip. Carl, thanks for explaining the thick vs thin pressure plates I was unaware of this. What would the symptoms be of using the wrong style collar with your clutch? for example, using a short collar with a thin pressure plate or using a longer collar with a thick pressure plate?

I adjusted the free play a little tonight so I will see what that does next time I drive it. I'am just as stumped as you guys are believe me! I think the torque the clutch must hold taking off in 1st gear is far less than what it is in 3rd or 4th at 4000 + rpm. I could be wrong here but that would explain why I don't feel anything in 1st but I do notice it in 3rd and 4th.

Thanks for the input guys, I was extra careful when putting on the rear main seal and the rear crankshaft bearing making sure I sealed up the corner's like it said to do in the "How to Rebuild Your Datsun" book so I would like to think thats not my problem. Like I said, anything under 4000rpm it holds just fine, taking off from a stop it engages smooth. It doesn't seem to feel as if the clutch disk has oil on it just because of how normal everything feels until the 4K mark. I was looking at the 240z centerforce 1 clutch kit on the MSA site and they say you must use a 280z clutch collar with that kit. I always thought the collar must match the clutch you are using?