AlexS13

Well, I just finished installing my freshly built L28, P79 shaved 0.080, aftermarket cam, header, intake, running round top SU's. I also swapped over to a zx 5 speed and a 3.90 diff. My stock 240z clutch had a few thousand miles on it and was in excellent shape so I thought using it with the new motor would have been just fine. Well, I've been driving the car for about 2 weeks being easy on it, breaking it in and everything has been fine. Tonight I went out for a little drive and started pushing the car a little harder and loading it up and I noticed my clutch will start to slip pretty bad once i get up to about 4000rpm under load. 1st gear just likes to spin the tires so I dont notice it, and 2nd gear isnt too bad but in 3rd and 4th it slips pretty bad! Anything under 4000rpm it holds just fine but I guess when the power band of the cam comes on its just too much for it? I must say though, the power and torque of the L28 along with the 5spd and 3.90 is just amazing! It completely transforms the car! Has anyone run into this with the stock 240 clutch? And what would you guys recommend, getting a stock 240mm turbo clutch or upgrading to a aftermarket 225mm unit?

Ahhh ok never though of the mixture nuts. As Bruce mentioned I thought the needle may have been binding as I pulled the piston back out, I may have caused this by not pulling perfectly straight up on the piston causing the needle to bind. The mixture nuts are indeed a few turns out. I was simply just swapping out needles so I did not touch the mixture nuts. Either way I will use the straight edge method to set the height. Thanks for the help guys!

Thanks for the reply! They are '71 4 screw round tops. The only thing I can think of that may be happening is when I pull the piston back out the needle may be shifting at that point?

I'm having some trouble setting the correct position of the needles. I have always used the methed of placing the needle on the piston and tightening the set screw just enough to cause some drag on the needle but allowing it to move freely, I then place the piston onto the carb and let the needle position itself. My problem now is that when I place the piston onto the carb I slowly lower it down and I can feel the needle bottom out, I then slowly pull the piston back out and the shoulder of the needle is sitting above the surface of the piston. I have read another method is to use a straight edge along the bottom of the pistion and use that as reference for the needle height. My question now is...do I install the needles with the shoulder sitting higher than the bottom of the piston, or do I manually set the needle height using the straight edge method?

I'll start off by briefly describing the events which led up to this story. I purchased my 1971 240z in 2010 from a gentleman who bought the car in Ohio and drove it back to Ontario, Canada. He supplied me with the import papers which indicated the car had been imported to Canada in 2008. He had also briefly mentioned the car was originally white (now blue) and that it had spent some time in Texas. I was also told about a death in the previous owner's family. This was about all the information I had got from him when I bought the car. I had alot of question's I would have liked answered such as...the authentic milage on the car? how long was it in Texas? how many owner's? previous accident's? etc... I came to the conclusion that finding these answer's was not going to happen, I just didn't have enough information to put anything together. This is where it gets interesting, about 2 weeks ago the original rad that was in my 240z had sprung a leak from the core. This was when I found a name engraved on the tank of the radiator. It was quite hard to make out but I was able to spell out the first and last name...George Amlin. I though to myself this could possibly be a previous owner of my car, so I went on facebook and was able to find George. I sent George a message describing the car and where I found his name and if he may have owned this car? Within a day of me sending the message I get a response.... Alex, High probability. You may be interested in the following: I bought the car in 1972 in Wilmington, NC when it was about 1 year old with 15000 miles on it for $3450. It was originally a white car but Datsun paint quality did not hold up in the seaside atmosphere around Wilmington thus I had it painted blue around 1975. Some bolts on the fan mounting broke thus the fan tore up the radiator core and I had to take the radiator out and replace the core around 1975. The radiator shop stenciled my name on the radiator at that time. I was on the corporate transfer list thus moved the car to Charlotte, NC with me in 1976 and then moved it to Richmond, VA in 1977. In 1981 I moved it to Dallas, TX and then on to Houston, TX in 1982. I drove the car almost every day until I moved to Wilmington, DE in 1986. It had a little over 100k miles at that time. I kept the car in my garage driving it 2 or 3 times a month around the neighborhood but did not title the car in PA ( where I lived ). When I moved to Tokyo in 1989, I had it moved to my mother's garage around Tiffin, OH. My plan was to wait until I retired to "really fix it up" but the plan changed around 1998 when my mother died. I then gave the car to my brother in law ( Bob Seifert ) who also lived around Tiffin. He is the type of person who can do almost anything mechanically thus he repainted the car again & did some other mechanical work but I don't think he did much to the engine. I am actually in OH this weekend and will attend a family reunion in Tiffin on Saturday . Bob will probably be at the reunion. Have a great time with the car. I loved it but just decided it wasn't the right car to drive long distances around the country with my wife after I retired. It has moved around the country and had 4 state titles but only 3owners up to a few years ago. George Amlin When I read that message I started to get goose bumps. I felt so lucky being able to talk to George and back track the history of my car dating back to 1972. George and I have exchanged some more email's and he has informed me of some more detail's. I bought the car with 105,000 miles on the odo. George said the car had been sitting in his mothers garage for over 10 years without being driven or started. He also said his brother in law Bob had driven the car very little until 2008 when he sold it. This just answered my question about the milage on the car, it is original. The car had been driven a total of about 5,000 miles from 1986 to 2010 when I bought it. As far as accidents go, George said he was involved in 1 minor accident in 1976 while stopped at a red light he was rear ended. I have sent George some pictures of the car to bring back some memories for him. I find myself very lucky to be able to contact the person who bought my car 40 years ago! Hope you guys enjoyed this story Alex

can you post a picture of the car so we can see how the ride height looks?

I totally feel your pain and frustration! Last time I pulled the motor out of my car I left the tranny in, lets just say I will never do that again! If the motor comes out the tranny is going with it! Amazing work by the way! try and get some video footage if possible of that new beast taking its first breath!

I have recently completed a 3.90 R200 diff swap into my 71 240z and also purchased a techno versions diff mount which I believe is very similar to the R/T mount. I also purchased the poly GM mount so I can get rid of my factory lower mount. The problem I am having is that I cannot get the bolt lined up to attatch the gm mount to the steel bracket. If I bolt the gm mount to the bracket first then I'am off at the diff bolt holes. Has anyone with this diff mount had to modify their's to make it work? it also seems as if the poly mount needs some trimming done to it aswell. I have read multiple times that this is a straight forward install, and I have triple checked everything and I just can't seem to find what I'm doing wrong?

Take off the bracket from the caliper that holds the ebrake cable, put it in a vice and compress the round opening where the cable is suppose to slide through. Do this a little at a time as you do not want to make it too small that the cable will not fit. Once you have the cable fitting nice and snug use the factory metal push in clips to hold the cable nice and tight. This is how I did mine and it works great.

Here is my before and after of the L28 I'am building for my Z. The motor is still missing a few components but the hard part is done with.

I've searched this topic for days and I'm still a little confused as to how to go about doing this job. The motor is the factory L24 and it is in the car and running. I'm not sure what to do with the distributor timing. Some sources say the distributor needs to come out, others say just take the cap off and hold the rotor from turning. If there's anyone who's done this job, can you please give me a step by step of how you did this. Alex

Its good to hear you got it worked out! I have a question regarding installing an oil pump. I'm going to be changing my oil pump on my L24 soon but I'm a little confused as to how to go about doing it. The part I'm not sure about has to do with the distributor. After the motor is a tdc, do I need to totally remove the distributor and hold the shaft in place or do I just remove the distributor cap and mark and hold the rotor from turning? The motor is in the car and running so its fully assembled right now. If you can give me a detailed way of doing this job that would be much appreciated!

I installed my dual K&N intakes today. I love the way it opens up the engine bay and the butt dyno feels a little improvement aswell!

Here's a picture of mine. 15x7 Rota Rb's +04 offset with 205/55/15's.

The car was originally 904 white with blue interior. It has been repainted 903? blue at some point in its life. I still has the original interior.

me and "jmark" are 5 cars apart! I have a build date of 2/71 with VIN 22980

I have a set of Rota RB wheels on my 71. 15x7 +04 offset. 205/55/15 tires. No issues with center cap or rubbing. I also have tokico springs/struts and I haven't had any issues.

thanks for the input guys! Now when it comes to re installing the glass with the new weather stripping. how do i go about this procedure? I assume I would install the weatherstripping on the glass and then with some type of lubricant try and fit it onto the hatch?

I have a spare hatch for my car that I want to get sand blasted and painted but I would like to remove the glass to this this and also replace the weather stripping around the glass. Has anyone here successfully removed the glass and weathersripping/chrome molding? Also, is it urathaned in place? or does it just rely on the rubber seal around the window? any tips would be appraciated! Alex

sorry guys having some issues getting the pics to work

Hello everyone, I'm fairly new to this site and to Z cars. I have been on the hunt for a 240z for many years and have finally found one. Its a 1971 with 105,000 miles on the clock. Its all original except for the exterior colour. The car is originally white but has been painted (903 blue?) at some point in time. I assume the previous owner wanted the car to match the blue interior? I plan on doing a full restoration but until then I wanted to make the car a little more presentable and clean up the engine and engine bay. I have some before and after pictures of the engine and engine bay I would like to share with you guys. In regards to the motor, I removed the A/C system, air injection pump and the corresponding hoses, painted the block and cleaned up the cylinder head and valve cover. As you will see, there was alot of oily build up on the motor which was a pain to get off to say the least.

any updated with this? I'm having this EXACT same problem! I just removed my A/C system and now my blower motor will not work. Every wire that i'm testing for power is giving me constant 12v which is turning the motor on but i have no control of it with the switch. Can someone who has a non A/C 240z tell us exacly where the postive and negative wires coming out of the motor are leading to? The only electrical component of the a/c i removed was the switch on the drivers side but I don't see how removing that will give me this problem. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Excellent work! Can't wait to see it finished.

Hello my fellow Z car enthusiasts. My name is Alex and I'm from Toronto, Canada. I'm currently in the process of getting a '72 240z from arizona and shipping it over here. I refuse to buy a Z car from canada or the northern states because of the rust! I have been into Nissan's ever since i started driving about 12 years ago. I just recently sold my S13 240sx I have owned for about 7 years. I'm a very hands on type of person and do almost everything on my own in my garage...from swapping in a sr20det engine in the 240sx, suspension, etc.. I'm also really meticulous when it comes to cars. The slightest imperfection will bother me, whether its a paint imperfection, stone chip, dent, rust, etc.. Thats part of the reason I wanted an arizona car...to give me good starting point with minimal rust. Well I look forward learing all about these cars and getting everyones advice and tips. Here are a few pictures of my S13 before i sold it.