Cutlass372

My original slave had a hole and spring as well. However the new one I bought didn't have or need the spring. If I push the slave in by hand it pops right back to where it should. I'm not sure what type of tranny I have, but It came out of another 71-72 because the one in the car crapped out on me. I reinstalled everything, filled it with fluid but forgot to replace the little stop switch (or whatever its called..) so I was blowing fluid everywhere. I didn't realize I had forgotten anything so hopefully my tranny is still ok for having been ran without fluid for a little while..

Hey everyone, If your slave cylinder doesn't have the hole for the spring then it doesn't need it. I recently purchased a replacement slave from NAPA and it does not require the spring to return. I have a 72 with an adjustable slave as well. The new slave has pressure that pushes it back just as it should. One question though, Where should the slave be adjusted? I think that I have it pretty good, but I had to adjust my clutch all the way out and it seems like the clutch lets out twice. It lets out a little bit right off the floor and then again at like 3/4 from lifted.

Hey everyone, when I bought my car there was a light blue overspray on a large majority of the interior panels. What would you guys suggest for cleaning this off? I was thinking paint thinner or turpintine but wasn't sure if it would be to strong as to damage the door panels, seats, and other trim panels. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

^^ Anyone have some thoughts on that? I'm thinking its the solenoid, but im not sure. If the clicking is making it all the way to the starter then that mean that my ignition is doing its thing. What are your thoughts? It seems like everytime I fix something another thing breaks..

My car does have the adjustable rod. Also after a ride around, I came home and while messing around I didnt realize I was in gear and basically dumped the clutch in 2nd gear. The car obviously stalled out and when I went to start it again all I got was clicking.. I can hear clicking coming from the engine bay so that tells me the starter is doing something, but the car wont crank. I tryed bridging the spade connection with the positive and got it to crank one time, but every other time I tried it would just click. I left the car alone and recently tried again. The car cranked once but didnt start and just started clicking again. What would this be now...?

So I checked the linkage at the pedal and thats what it was. Im not sure if I have everything completly correct yet, but the car does go into gear and drive much better. I think the slave might need some slight adjustments because I think the throw-out bearing might be tapping slightly. I wanna take the car down to Z speed auto in NJ and see if they can get the car tuned up real nice for me.

What do you mean by sleeve? The throw-out bearing is connected to some sort type of hub deal? Is that the sleeve? I did use the same throw-out bearing assembly ( the whole part that connects to the clutch fork, but there was no sleeve that I saw. I dont think that thats the issue though. It doesn't feel like I have any pedal pressure. Although, at the slave cylinder when I push the clutch fork in (towards the front of the car) there is definatly pressure there. About how far do I want the slave cylinder rod to pludge into the cylinder itself? How much play should it have? I think today I might try and bleed the slave some more and see what happens.

The tranny that I replaced mine with is I believe a stock 72 4 speed tranny, the same year as my car. The clutch was working before I swapped, but not properly. I was able to get the car into gear but I really needed to force it and finally first and second would no longer engage. I could move the shifter into the gears but it was almost like they weren't there. It would sorta click into the gears spot but do nothing. I dont believe that I installed the throw-out bearing incorrectly as I never took it apart. There was really only one logical way to put it back together so thats what I did. All of the clutch components are how they were prior to the swap so none of that has changed. All I did basically was swap the old tranny out for this other one and replaced the slave cylinder. So im thinking either the slave isnt adjusted right (I think its in pretty much the same place it was, but where should it be set?), I need a new clutch master cylinder, or I just need to bleed the slave some more.

Well the fluid was coming out pretty steadily so im not so sure that there is any extra air in the system. I think I might just try and pick up a Clutch master cylinder and go from there.

Hey everyone, I recently replaced the tranny in my 240z and I cant seem to get it into gear. The tranny shifts fine with the car off, but once I turn it on I can't enter any gear and reverse grinds. I replaced the Slave cylinder, but I wasn't quite sure exactly where it needs to be adjusted (gravity bled it cause I didnt have another person). The car doesn't seem to have much if any pedal pressure, and looking at the clutch master cylinder from in the car there seems to be a little bit of fluid coming from the stopper. I recently filled the front resevoir of the brake master cylinder and now its competely empty. Would this cause a lack in pedal pressure? What are your thoughts? I am thinking about replacing the Clutch Master and the Master cylinder, but what do you think? Any help would be greatly apprciated. Thanks, Elliot.

$500 ? Thats way to much... mine as well just get coilovers..

Would it be possible to take a set of Suspension techniques or AZ car springs and cut them down to the rate and height that im looking for? Looking for a like 1.5" drop or so. I hear you can't go over 1.5" without sectioning the struts so I wanna go as low as I can without worrying about travel and such.

No one knows of anything?

Hey everyone, I'm looking to do some suspension work to my 1972 240z and I just can't decided on which way to go. I am really looking for a set of 225f/250r springs but I cant seem to find any. Is there anywhere that offers custom spring rates? I don't have the money to do a coilover setup, even though I really want to.. I'd like to run these springs with a set of Tokico Illuminas or something that is adjustable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Sort of off topic, but this might help you as well. Im looking for a set of 225f/250r lowering springs. Is there anywhere that offers custom spring rates with a like 1.5-2 inch drop? I dont have the money to do coilovers at the moment so im looking for these to hold me over for awhile. Anyone know of somewhere?

The fuseable link wire? I get no power to that wire from the solenoid side of it (that side connects into the harness). The power goes into the solenoid and I get no power coming out of the fuseable link or when I turn the key to start from the spade connector. If I run a wire from the spade to the + on the batt the car will crank. Nothing in the car gets power with everything hooked up the way that It should be, unless I have that jumper to the coil. Anyone wanna send me a starter that I could give a try? . Would definatly save me some money from buying parts that I dont need..

I'm not getting any power anywhere without that coil jumper hooked up.

Ok, well I tested to see if when you turn the key to start if the spade connector would light up on the light tester, nothing. Check everywhere else on the car.. no power. This is with all the wires hooked up how they should be. I know that power is going into the solenoid, but every other connection on the solenoid has no power (fuseable link and the exposed piece that connects to the starter itself. So if im getting no power to anything else with the correct wires hooked up then im in need of a new solenoid? What would be your guess?

Well if I dont have that hot to the coil then I get nothing at all from the key or lights. So that means im not getting power to the coil/ignition. Ignition switch should be fine because I just replaced it. Is there any way that I could temp. bypass the fuseable link to see if thats the problem? Another thing is then when I have the car running with the hot to the coil, the only way I can get the lights to turn on is if I spin the key to start. That gives me headlights, running lights and im not sure about the dash lights. That makes me think its the solenoid because with the key turned to the start it would be supplying a constant 12v to somewhere. I hate this electrical stuff.. Its such a nightmare. I know that once I figure it out though it will be well worth the effort (hopefully..). Maybe once I get it registered and insured I can take it to a like sears and they can scan my electrical system, I'd rather not do that though... If anyone has anymore suggestions or places to check it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Anyone else? Trying to get this cleared up today..

^^ That was with all the wires connected. Fuse link, Black and yellow (Spade connector) and the jumper to the coil. Im pretty sure the spade connector goes to the coil though anyway? You think it might just be the solenoid? Seems like a pretty good idea to me..

Just went out and messed with the car a little. All of the wires are still on the coil, I just have another wire on there running to the + on the battery. Once I pull that wire from the + on the battery though, the car dies. Nothing happened without the hot on the coil. Yet, with that wire on, when I would turn the key to about midway from lock to off the starter would engage for a second and it suddenly started the car. When turned to on, the brake light on the dash would go out, and when turned to start it would bright back up a little and the starter would spin but not engage(could only get it to do that sometimes). I can only get the lights to work if I have the car running and have the key turned to start, anywhere else they do nothing. Someone help me clear up these gremlins I really wanna start to drive the car.

Hey guys, Picked up a 72 240z recently and when I hit the key I get absolutely nothing (no clicking, etc). I bought a new ignition switch and threw that in today but still, nothing and no noise. Right now I have a jumper going from the + on the battery and the + on the coil with a jumper on the solenoid that I tap on the + of the battery. With this hooked up the car starts fine. When I try the key with the coil jumper hooked up, some of the interior dash lights go on (brake light and gauges work) and I get some clicking from the key. When I turn the key to start with the jumpers, the volt meter moves and the dash lights die (battery needs to be charged). At this point im thinking its a bad solenoid. When I went to tighten one of the connections on the solenoid the front face where all of the connectors are plugged in spun with it. It was like the end of the solenoid (the black part) was detached from the case. I have power going to the solenoid, but my car does nothing... Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?? I might just try and pick up a new solenoid when I go in to pick up my alternator tomorrow.

Check your points. Give them a quick sand down with the highest grit you got, 220-600 is fine I guess. Something very similar just happened to my car and this fixed it right up. Give it a try.. might work.

Figured it out!!! My points were getting fried up because of the way that I have it wired. I took some sandpaper to them and it started right up. Im gonna pick up an ignition switch tomorrow and an alternator and see if that fixes some of my problems.