usafdarkhorse

I know the thread's 7 years old, but is it possible that the OP's engine running hotter may be due to insufficient bleeding? Do Z's even have bleeder valves? The reason I ask is because if he lost coolant, installed the heater core, topped her off, and then experienced in increase in running temperature, air bubbles may be trapped in the lines and hindering the flow back to the radiator. He gets heat just fine, but beyond that, could this be an issue?

I know right? It's KILLING me! It's the last thing holding the car back from running fantastically.

They were load tested like you mentioned above. Isn't that the standard now? I understand the physics of a battery. I also understand that, despite how cables and terminals may look, they may have issues, which was the case with my last Z. That is why I said I will try it. Despite it's simplicity, the car is highly modified and the battery no longer resides in the OEM location. I just hope the problem is as simple as it should be. Thanks for the suggestions.

Nope, not new. Yes they were tested. The terminals and cables honestly look brand new, but I can try it.

You are correct

Forgot to mention that the externally regulated alt was swapped nearly a year ago to an internally regulated unit via this thread: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html These problems all presented themselves when the last alternator gave out.

Yes. It evidently wasn't charging at all as I was going down the road ( as opposed to very very little at 3000RPM, around 13.0V potential ), so when it decided to die at the stop sign, it didn't have enough juice for the starter.

Yeah I would question it too, but I've put in several batteries and all give the same symptoms.

UPDATE: Alright, so I got the car back from the shop. They put in a new ground from the alt to the body. It seemed to run better, so they checked the voltages. Apparently the alt is putting out 15V, but it's only getting 13V across the battery, so, due to liability reasons, they recommend ME to put in a cable that goes directly from the BAT connection on the alt to the positive side of the battery. A hotwire if you will. I get home and do it. Big 4 AWG cable from the alt to the battery. Start it up. I get 11.9V across the battery, give it a rev or two, and it settles around 12.5V at idle. I wasn't happy since I'm supposed to be seeing 14.5ish. So I think, "OK well I've driven on less voltage and the alt seems to charge a little while moving" so I take it out. Car runs fantastic. Fuel pressure's all there matching the manifold pressure increase I'm seeing. Get to the end of my road ( about a mile away ) and she dies, never to start again. Had a buddy bring me another battery and I get her home. OK so I've got a direct connection from the alt to the battery and the correct voltages in all the wires going to the alt. What am I missing here? Cleaning up the battery to body ground here in a bit.

Thanks for all the replies! I took the car to a local shop. After they had looked her over well, they told me they think the ground from the alt has some breakage in it somewhere and they're in the process of locating it. They said the rest of the wiring looked pretty good, so now it's just a process of finding the break and making a new one. I do hope with the correct voltage that I'll get the correct fuel pressure as well.

The ground to the alternator? Could you show me a pic?

You might be on to something, but I'm not sure. The Aeromotive FPR that's on the car is supposed to increase the pressure at a 1:1 psi ratio fuel pressure: manifold pressure. Regardless, I do have a charging problem. If it takes care of my fuel pressure problem in the process, then great.

See that's the funny thing. I checked and took her to an alternator shop to check over the wiring. I get a full 12V at both the L and S connections ( the L is the excitation wire ), when ON ( The L should be 0V when not ON, which it is ). The crossovers connections as mentioned in the conversion thread were rewired a few days ago and they are good. The car has been running on an internally regulated alternator for well over a year, so the wiring had BETTER BE good ha.

Maybe needs to go to the electrical forum, but it's a definite HELP ME!! Some info! 75 280Z running an L28ET on Megasquirt II with an EDIS system. Problem SHOULD NOT rest with these components. Should be a general car problem. Alternator converted to internally regulated via thread mentioned here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Bought the car needing a fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump. Found out the car doesn't recharge the battery. -Battery's GOOD. -Alternator's GOOD. ( on my 3rd alt now! First one tested good, then bad. 2nd was from a parts car, good then bad. 3rd is definitely GOOD ) -Wiring going to L and S connections ( exciter and sense ) for the alt input is GOOD ( checked this myself and had this checked by an alternator shop...which told me the alt I had in the car was bad and that my wiring was GOOD ). So by the guy's recommendation, In had the alt swapped for a known GOOD unit. Throw the thing in the car, and what do you know, no dice. Runs around 12.1V across the battery. Car doesn't charge sitting at idle. Will charge around 13.0V around 3000RPM, far lower than the 14.45V that the sense connection aims for out of the alternator. Fuel pressure should be 40psi at idle. I get 36psi. Upon increasing RPM, the fuel pressure increases to about 40psi ( it should increase ), and then drops down to about 33psi. I'm thinking low voltage across the pump is causing it to lose fuel pressure. I'm going to tear my hair out trying to figure out what's wrong! :stupid: Any ideas??? I've been at this for a MONTH. OH YEAH. Doesn't like to start. At all. Will start and die. Takes about 5 start and dies before it will start and run, and will run very low at 500RPM.

Thread resurrection. As ironic as this may be, I sold my 76 Z last May. I bought a 1991 Acura NSX and had a great time then figured out how much money I had in a car with this economy. So I sell the NSX. Then I pick up a 75 280Z with a built L28ET and...basically everything... HOWEVER, still have the turn signal problem hahahaha. This time, no signals and when the hazards are on, everything blinks except the front right. I took the switch out and cleaned it. Maybe grounding problem?

Eh I don't think the shims were there so I'm going to have to get those. For right now, the silencing goop is working pretty good. No idea on the pads. I bought the car about 2 and half months ago and don't know much about the stock equipment. They're almost brand new though. Have about 1 cm of pad, would be difficult to fit shims in there without some clamps to hold the cylinder back.

OK, so yesterday I raised the car and took out the pads ( was probably the easiest time I've ever had working on brakes ). I lubed the backsides of the pads where the piston meets and also the anti-squeal springs with some of that silencing stuff. Had it all back together in about a half hour. Took her out for a drive and it was a vast improvement. I have a very slight squeal coming from the back right now I believe and only when I come right to a stop for a split second, but it's much much better.

Well I haven't tried your brass shim idea yet ( I guess I need shims just about everywhere now ), but I have a sneaking suspicion that it's not my problem. The fix I did by shimming the spring to put more pressure on the rocker lever should have been enough to make a good contact, but I can try it anyway. I just don't think the power's getting there. At any rate, I thought about getting some of that stuff for the back of the brake pads and it looks like I'll be doing so. What should I do if the shims are worn or virtually nonexistent?

Yesterday I took my 280Z for a decent drive over some curvy and hilly terrain and was out for about an hour. Now, as I've been driving my car lately, the longer I drive it, the more noticeable a shrill squeal occurs, and, at the end of my ride yesterday, it was pretty much SCREAMING to a stop ( but stopping wasn't hindered. It stopped just fine ). I've paged through the FSM and found that between the caliper and pad there are little "anti-squeal shims" ( yes literally...the FSM says "anti-squeal shims"). Should this be the first place I should look or does anyone think I could be having another issue altogether? I bought the car about 2 and a half months ago now and I don't know if they've been bled, but the pads look nearly brand new...about 1 cm thick. Think they could be glazed over and causing this sort of awful noise? Thanks

I think you inquired about my Iron Cross wheels before, but they're still available. Tires have barely seen the road if at all.

Ah I see. Well, I shall see what I can do with it. If it works. Great! If it doesn't...well...then that means I didn't lose anything and I know that that's not it! haha I'll post tomorrow on what I've done and if anything happens!

Look at the picture. Correct? :DROFL

Hmmm So, the shims put enough pressure on the slider to engage the switch? I'm still not sure if that's even my problem but I can try it. The slider and shaft assembly works fine because I believe my switch to be rebuilt, but I could be wrong. I'm just having trouble seeing how, with no holes drilled to let the shaft through and hold the brass shims, how it could put enough pressure against the slider in the U chamber to engage it up and down. I should be getting some serious pressure on the ball and rocker with the little finishing nail end I placed with the spring to give it some leverage. Also, what do you think about the the advice given that my hazard switch could be the culprit. Is this true if my hazards still flash? What about the blown fuse?

By the way our cars are very similar: 305 Blue VIN#: HLS30297088, 3/76

I do have another center console I'm about to ship that has a hazard switch intact. Would it be possible to try to swap them? That page is the same one from the FSM correct? I will look into connecting a hot green to the hazard. That 4th fuse continues to blow, but I haven't checked it since I removed the stereo and speakers. Since this is in integral part of this circuit, can I assume that this would be a culprit for my problems? What sort of things can I expect from a blown fuse in the 1st column, 4th row? Also, I have no power to the 2nd column, 7th row ( last ) fuse. After removing the stereo, my voltmeter decided that it would work again. This car has a personality!