usafdarkhorse

The hazards will work even when the hazard switch does not contact properly? Is the hazard switch the point wired into the switch in the center of the console? I may try this, but I would like to solve this problem.

Did you punch holes through those brass shims to allow the plastic shaft into the plastic slider? I'm looking at the pictures and looking at my switch and I'm trying to make sense of it. What I tried to do was I shimmed the spring with a cut off finishing nail ( it lengthened the spring's effective distance by about a millimeter ) and had hoped the extra pressure for the ball, along with cleaning the contacts on the V plate inside the curved chamber would make a better contact. I reinstalled it like this and it did not work still, but I don't know if this would have helped anything. Should I still try the brass shim method?

Excellent. Looking forward to that. I think these problems are fairly common with these Z's so I hope that SOMETHING will work haha. I pulled the stereo head out a few minutes ago but I haven't had a chance to see if that helped me or not. Odds are that will help the gauges NONE. haha

OK, after considering these conditions, I have a little more to add. The PO installed a Pioneer head unit with Sony 6X9 speakers which, though are decent, are gaudy and I think draw too much current. The two gauges that DO work are the speedo and voltmeter ( intermittently) but while the voltmeter did work, it showed a current of 15V indicating it was charging a little more than normal. The alternator has also been swapped out for a more generic alternator which makes it easier to replace should it decide to quit. Also there is the resulting wiring change because of the alternator. My plans were ( and are now even moreso important ) to take out this head unit and the resulting speakers and at that point I will check if there are any difference. But even still, the turn signals are on another circuit. I have the original fusebox covers and I wasn't planning on putting any higher amperage fuses in there obviously because it's too much current. I'm an engineering student and am familiar with this decently, but I'm having trouble identifying what might fix all this. Are most of the grounds for the gauge circuits located inside the dash?

OK, so I've searched around and done what I can so far, but I think this is bigger than I can figure out myself. First, I bought my 76 280Z about 2 and half months ago with some minor problems. Some have been addressed. Some have not. I realized quickly that my turn signals did not work, however, that my hazard lights did. So, after some quick searches, I found a few things which could be the culprit: the ignition relay, the turn flasher unit, the turn signal switch, etc. Ignition relay: switched in another one, car ran horrible, no gauges still Turn flasher unit: switched in another one, still no signals, no "click" either indicating it was on. Have NOT cleaned the turn signal SWITCH yet ( the stalk with the contact slider ), however, are there any other issues which could be the culprits I should know now? Also, another tidbit of info: There are 14 fuses in a 280Z fusebox, 2 columns of 7 rows. On the 1st column, 4th row, the fuse continues to blow VIOLENTLY which is linked to the gauge circuit. Any reason for this? I replaced the fuse there the first time, started the car up, tach worked for about 3 seconds before it blew so I KNOW the power is getting to the gauges. Any ideas? Should I search more?:stupid:

I have the same problems as you on my own 76 Z except my flasher relay does not "click" when I turn the turn signals on. I switched in a different flasher relay and it still did not work. I also got into the car and switched out ignition relays, however, right after this my car started to run very poor and I still had no gauges. I suppose I'll switch my old one back in and pry open the newer one to see how it works. The other day when I started my car for the first time in 2 months and had replaced the blown fuses, the tach worked for about 3 seconds before it dropped to 0 again and had blown the fuse again.

I'd say that they look fine. However, you should try getting those bumper shocks off the back. I pulled them both out last night ( my gas tank is being repaired) and they're easy to get out once that thing's dropped ( a pain before). They weigh 15 lbs. together.

One thing I haven't thought about is if it does this only while moving or while both moving and static. So maybe I can put a little load on the car while it's sitting still and replicate it. Can I check it this way? Would the differential still jump in static?

positive it's not a backfire, though I will check the differential mounts. It sounds very metallic.

I've owned my 76 Z now for about a month and haven't driven it since about the 2nd day I've owned it due to fixing some issues that will make it a good daily driver. However, while it's in the fix-it stage, I would like to get a question answered. As I was driving it home ( and subsequently around the neighborhood once I got it home), I noticed a nice metallic BANG anytime I put a decent load on the car ( not full throttle...not even really quarter throttle). I tried to see if I could replicate this by putting it into third gear and gently coercing the throttle to see at what point this BANG occurs. If I'm really gentle, it won't do it at all. When it does BANG, it's only one and it happens as soon as the load is applied. It sounds like I've got something loose up there that's whacking the bottom when the car hunches down to accelerate. I found an exhaust hanger had broken, so I fixed it, but I haven't driven the car since fixing it. It feels like somebody is hitting my car with a sledge hammer. I don't think it's suspension, but then again I'm a little new. Any ideas?

Ha...maybe I'll just get an 83 differential instead.

I bought a 76 280Z with an 83 motor and tranny swap about a month ago and I suspect the speedos a little off. I have the original differential with the new tranny. Could I have the wrong cog wheel?

Yeah from another post in the electrical section, two other guys had the same problems I did ( no gauges EXCEPT volt and speedo) and the 10A fuse was related. One of the other members, in addition to those maladies, also suffered from no turn signals ( as do I) and he said it was his ignition relay, from which all the circuits from the gauges and the signals run ( I think). So I'm gonna check the fuse, the ground, and then if all else, replace or clean the ignition relay. Sound about right?

I have EXACTLY the same problems with my 76 280Z I acquired a few weeks ago. No turn signals ( yes hazards), no gauges EXCEPT speedo and volt. Final word? Check the ground, ignition relay, and the 10A fuse?

I've gotten in touch with a local radiator shop that will repair the tank for ~50-60 ( if needed) and coat it for ~80 or 90 over that. I'll check on all the aforementioned issues and hopefully will be able to address them all whether they are an issue or not. I'm also looking to get a 77 parts car and I've searched for this but couldn't find the differences either, but I need a replacement window regulator ( I think some call it a scissor assembly)among other things, and I've heard that there are differences between the 76 and 77 ( being smoother I suppose), but I need to know if the 77 regulators will work with the 76 door internals ( by the way those things are annoying to take off and put back on). I also would like to know the encompassing differences between the 76 and 77 ( I know the fuel tank is different ), but I apologize if there is an all encompassing sticky somewhere that I can't find. :stupid:

sounds risky haha alright, I've searched for methods on taking the tank off ( by recommendation ), but to no avail. Can anyone find these mystery plans on the correct ( or maybe just best ) way to take off the fuel tank? I seem to be unable to find it. :stupid: Once I have it off, I'll inspect it for the washer and plug but I might just have the tank coated anyway as a precaution.

What do you suggest would be the smartest way to take the thing off safely? The drips were coming from the plug, but I can't really tell you if that's where it is originating from. I think it's probably corroded and needs a good refurbishing anyway.

I bought a 76 280Z this past weekend, great car, great mechanically, has a few little electrical issues, but yesterday I was working on the car and I noticed a small puddle about 6" in diameter under the back right side of the car.:mad: I bent down and looked up under the car and noticed the right side of the fuel tank was wet and drips were coming from the drain plug ( although this may not be the source of the leak). Any ideas on what to do next? I'm thinking about taking it off and refurbishing it, but I want to make sure it would be a better decision than out and out replacing it ( because finding another fuel tank might be difficult and expensive). It's a great car ( perfect dash and seats), but it just has a few issues to resolve to make it perfectly reliable. This was just an annoying setback.

True however both of these guys have known each other for years and have swapped tricks of the trade for a long time. I think the electrical woes stem from a lack of time rather than a lack of knowledge. The car was for his son and as such, neither him nor his son ( who was using the car to go to college) had time to address the issue. The Z specialist didn't know a lot about what needed to be done because I didn't have that information myself. The seller gives the Z guy some good props and says his rebuilt transmissions are much better than stock pieces ( nationally renowned apparently), but I wouldn't say that the seller knew far less than the Z guy. The latter just wasn't given the information I know now.

I think some had digital and some had analog. I believe all those parts you mentioned were carried over from the 76 motor to the 83 motor from what the seller is telling me, but I can't be sure. He says he's built 5 Z's himself and that the cables and wires are all there but that there may have been on open ground upon hooking it up and everything may not be hooked correctly. He personally thinks that the gauges aren't getting power one way or another, not necessarily that their sensors are not hooked up. Really the only way to tell is to get down in it and look.

Hey thanks for all the suggestions guys. I went to see the car today and it's not as bad as what his son was making it out to be ( his son is the one selling the car but his dad knows the specific details). He seems to think that the cables and everything is all there, but it may not have been hooked up right or may not have been hooked at all. His recommendation was to go through the compartment and try to find cables that are not plugged, but if I need to find relays and such, I have a friend who is very proficient in electrical systems and he has a good multimeter. With both our heads we should be able to figure this stuff out. :stupid: The seller cleared up some info though on the fact that it is an 83 motor, but it is running on the 76 harness and ECU. What sort of components would be needed from a 76 to make the gauges work if the hookups are not the problem?

I was talking to some Z guys on another forum and they were saying that it wasn't a huge deal as well. Do you think it would be a good idea to get a '76 harness and use the bits off it that needed the appropriate wiring? It does sound like an incompatibility to me. I will probably have to go circuit hunting because the hazards work but each individual signal does not. Are the gauges for the '76 Z electrical? Everything but the motor and tranny is the original car, including the gauges I believe. Does this make my problem any different? It really is a great car. Just needs some time spent on it.

I've perused around the old Z's for some time now and I've found one that I might possibly want to get into. The seller has a 1976 280Z which has a newer low mileage 83 280ZX motor installed. Great. Fine. Except for one thing. Apparently the car needs a new wiring harness, so when the motor was swapped, the mechanic for the guy rigged the car to start and it does and runs exceptionally, but the turn signals and most of the gauges DO NOT work. The speedo and voltmeter both work and so do the hazards, cabin lights, headlights and tailights. Question. What am I getting myself into here? I talked to a Z specialist here in TN and he says that the 83 and 76 L28s were vastly different as far as fuel injection, alternator, and mechanics is concerned, but he'd have to see the car to know what needed to be done. I'm not sure which wiring harness I would need and to what extent I need to go to have all the gauges, lights, and engine mechanicals running like clockwork. Anyone have any suggestions?