Oiluj

I've always liked yellow...

I'd ask why they are seling it... What happened on the 3rd day?

Opps!! It was law #3... Law 1: Fully understand the project requirements. Law 2: Take action, apologize later. Law 3: Don’t re-invent or build what you can buy. Law 4: Simple is better than complex. Law 5: Design it so you don’t become a slave to what you build. They are posted at my desk and I use them when mentoring junior engineers.

I would think the reduction in rotatonal inertia might have a bigger impact than the weight savings. Similar to a lightweight flywheel. Would be pretty easy to calculate. As mentioned above, it might not be the most bang for your buck.

No. No. No. I wasn't implying you use your employer's resources, nor did I intend it to be interpreted that way. Written communications can be poorly worded or mis-interpreted... There were two messages in the last post: 1) My engineering rule above, which is self-explainatory. I literally had that conversation with someone at work today. Engineering time is expensive... 2) I wanted others to know that when I violate that rule, I don't do it at my employer's exspense. i.e. When I used the model shop at my last job, I brought my own materials or paid the shop/company back in other ways. They didn't care, but I did. A "personal honor" kinda thing. No negative reflection on you intended. We good?

The Wilwoods sound like a bargain. Julio's 2nd rule of engineering is: "Don't build what you can buy". I admit to sometimes violating that rule for "fun", but not with my employer's money. (I have five rules of engineering)

Wow. If no rust, that's a steal!

Leon, Nice explaination. I may have to look at re-adjusting. Given my set-up, at least I have the ability to reduce rear grip. The parking lot was wet, but not "slippery", so my guess is that it may not be too far off.

Looks Great! I'm sure there are a number of members lining-up to send you their air boxes!

You might want to consider a dual system. I also have only the mechanical fuel pump. I added a electric pump with a switch on my previous Z as insurance, and am considering doing the same on my current 240Z. It's a belt & suspenders kind of thing...

Jon, (of course), has it right. My car is slightly front-biased on the brakes, but not by very much, and I can lock the rear brakes. We tested / adjusted it on an empty, wet parking lot so we could observe the wheels under hard braking. We were somewhat conspicuous as we had a floor jack, and jack stands to make adjustments. At one point a cop stopped to see what we were up to. While I was thinking about how I'd explain what we were doing, he just drove off... My buddy, (who regularly races) had the same concern as Jon, and was surprised at how balanced the brakes felt. And then told me I have to get grip-pier tires... Perhaps that slight front bias might seem worse at 120 mph... Good thing I'm not tracking the car, (though he keeps trying to get me to do it). All-in-all, I prefer the more positive and easier to modulate pedal feel. I wouldn't go back. (And I have all the old parts to do it). Again, just one guy's opinion.

Just curious, how is the paint that changes color dependant on lighting done? Just finished painting a bedroom, and may want to try talking my bride into using that on the next bedroom...

I fully agree, and did install a proportiong valve which I played with to balance the brakes. My brakes are smoother and pedal feel is better than what it was stock, which I consider a worthwhile improvement. In terms of braking distance though, I never thought it was going to make much difference. Perhaps I'm wrong, but in my limited experence, (no "official" racing anyway), the everyday tires as on my Z are the weak link. In terms of handling, my car is certainly tire limited, and I expect my braking distance is as well.

Camilo, Have you looked at Rock Auto? They might have a 15/16" rebuilt cylinder. Same goes for NAPA Auto, (where I got my ZX master a couple years ago). Both places will ship parts.

Wow. only $150 / $400? That's sounds very reasonable. Would you need to upgrade the rear brakes as well, or at least put in an adjustible propotioning valve to keep it balanced?

Justinyee, I work close to 101 & 237. Once my engine's back together, we should have a mini Z-meet and a beer after work!

I'm still on the plus side for the toyota 4x4 brakes, and at least on my car, improved braking. They bolt right on with no major work, but you do have to notch the backing plate. Speaking of unsprung weight, I'm surprised none has mentioned this. What size tires and wheels are we all running? I'd venture to say that nobody who tracks their car is running 175-14's... The larger wheels and tires probably add more unsprung weight, (and further out on the lever-arm of the suspension, where it has more effect), than the 3 lb's of the 4x4 "upgrade". And many of us are also running stiffer springs. What size wheels & tires are you running and how heavy are they? It would be an easy calculation to estimate the equivalent addition to unsprung weight at the location of the caliper. FWIW, I've never had a nose dive issue with my 4x4 brakes, and I have tested them hard. It's all about balance. And as pointed-out above, Nissan engineered and offered a similar set-up as a "performance option". To the real issue, are the stock brakes adequate? Of course, as is the HP of the original engine. But how many of us want more power, or have done things to get more HP? Same goes for handling and braking. It's really about what the individual owner wants to do with their car. There are as many right answers as there are car owners. (To be honast, I admit to sharing my thoughts about some body modifications that are not to "my" taste). But it's just an opinion... Very much like the subject of this brake thread.

Thanks for the tip. I have a mechanic's grade compression tester and will check it tomorrow. If all is OK, she should be back on the road by next Sunday.

I often agree with you, but not on this one. You are right about heat dissipation. If I were tracking the car, I'd have probably gone with Wilwoods or something similar. But not everyone with a S30 is racing it. I changed to the 4x4 brakes, s.s. lines, ZX master and larger vac booster. The car brakes are more positive than stock, and for street driving, it's a viable "upgrade". Perhaps the better question is, for a street car, is it really needed? I only did it because I wanted to have brakes to match the increased HP. (And it probably still wasn't needed). P.S. Pretty Brakes!

As an aside, on these cars, sometimes the ignition key lock gets worn and replaced, so it doesn't match the entry locks. Was that way on both my previous 240z's.

Forgot fuses...

I always have a spare set of extra ignition parts, (points, cap rotor, a bit of electrical wire & tape). Even though I have a Pertronix ignition, it's an easy reversal should it fail. On long trips I carry a 1 gallon of water and a quart of oil. I always keep a small set of tools, flares, etc in the car. I've never carried canned air for a low tire, but for a long trip, maybe... I make sure the spare has air before I leave, and verify all the lights are working properly. For me, I always have some granola bars or similar food in case I'm broken down long enough to get hungary, and a warm coat. The emergency cooling system water is drinkable, and works for me as well. I keep a slide rule in the glove box for computing gas mileage. Of course a cell phone, car charger and road service number. Lastly, extra money in the event something breaks and it's more than I can fix on the road.

Took off the intake & exhaust. Had exhaust manifold leak due to cracked manifold. [ATTACH=CONFIG]58172[/ATTACH]

Took off the intake & exhaust. Had exhaust manifold leak due to cracked manifold. You can see where it was leaking.

Developed a exhaust leak, of course when miles away from home. Drove a few short trips that way, before deciding it was time to fix it. Took the intake & exhaust off today, and there is evidence on the head of an exhaust leak on #6. Funny, it exactly matches a hairline crack in the same place on the manifold... None of the bolts seemed under/over tightend, so that's not what did it. My buddy has a scope, and I'm going to try to check condition of the valve. I'm really hoping it's not burned. If so, the head has to come off too. I have a spare manifold and bought gaskets, but need to check the manifold for flatness. If everything's OK, I'll put her back together this weekend. Fun, fun, fun!