Oiluj

Never knew that. I thought pearl was part of the base. Thanks for the info! Something I can use in a pub trivia quiz...

Maybe the 1st stage is primer? Nice looking car!

More knowledegable members can correct me, but a 30 degree temperature difference is unlikely to make any discernable dfference. The valves are about 5" long. Unless I made a math error, (possible), for stellite, the expansion rate is 0.005" micro-inch/inch/degree F, or a total of 0.015 micro-inches. Not much appreciable change in length... Source: http://stellite.co.uk/Portals/0/Stellite%206%20Final.pdf

My resto-moded 1972 240Z would be lucky to be a #3 car with the modifcations. With a few pics, Hagarty insured it for 27,500, (what I asked for), without any qustions or reservations. The Hagarty rep on the phone even asked if I wanted to insure it for more...

I've installed the MSA vinyl panels in two different 240Z's, and a kit from Les in my current Z. They looked to be from the same manufacturer. I second that some fitting is required. Outside that, I found the panels to be of good quality.

Yep, I wouldn't have put the emblems on it, but for a kit-ish car it's not that bad. With the V-8 it should be pretty quick, but it will never "sound" like a Ferrari... From my perspective, it looks a lot better than some of the custom Z's wev'e seen posted. To each his own. As posted above, I hope no nice, restorable Z was used to make it.

Welcome! You will find this to be a great group of Z guys.

On a "just sports car guys" gathering last year, some of the guys drove like idiots. Don't get me wrong, I like to carve a corner from time-to-time as much as the next guy, but not like that. I just let them go on ahead. They had to wait for us "sane" guys in the back to arrive at our destination before they could order lunch anyway!

Beautiful! If that's "not done", what's left?

Only in my dreams... Or if I win tonite's lottery. Oh yeah, you have to buy a ticket to win, right? I probably have the same odds, not having bought a ticket!

I agree, great composition!

Others will probably have better input, but I'll take a shot. Since it's on the first 3 cylinders, I'd guess it's running to rich on that carb. 1) Check your choke on cylinders 1-3 to see if it's mis-adjusted / sticking w/ choke engaged. (most likely, since it's the first 3 cylinders). 2) Check mixture on carb for cyls 1-3. 3) Do a compression test to see if you have a valve issue, especially on #3. Only becuase it looks much worse.

I fully agree with this. I did all the dis-assembly, prep, 80% of the interior work, upgraded the suspension & brakes, painted & polished detachable parts, installed after-market HVAC, fabricated custom parts and did all re-assembly myself. I even ended-up with 4 stitches in my finger in the process, but finished installing the diff before going to the emergency room... I admit to just writing a check for the engine build and body paint, but to quote Dirty Harry, "a man's got to know his limitations". If you ask my wife, she'll be happy to tell you! While my car is certainly not restored to show car level, I take satisfaction in how it turned-out and the effort it took to get it there. Having gone through the process a few times, I REALLY appreciate the amount of work & money it takes to make a show winner...

When it came to my engine, Rebello was the only choice. They know the L-Series engines inside-out, and know how to improve performance without comprimising reliability. That said, I imagine any good head shop can handle your head work, assuming you are sticking with stock parts. They are really pretty simple to rebuild. Look for cracks, check flatness and don't let them shave too much off if it needs to be re-surfaced...

Interesting. The mechanism in my neighbor's '72 is different...

Jim, My father & I had a C-2A (korean war?) vintage that I fixed up. I used it to cruise around town in it after college. My father used it for duck hunting in the San Joaquin delta. Really great vehicle. The manual gave info on tuning the carburetor to run on kerosene to aviation gas. The jeep was eventually sold to my second cousin when my father stopped hunting.

I know what you mean. Last show I was in, there was only one award for import cars. A pristine XKE that was "professionally" restored won the trophy. The cost of the restoration work alone was probably three times as much as I have in my Z. It was absolutely beautiful, so I didn't mind losing to it. I did win a "vendor's choice" award in that show, which was a complete surprise. My car is for driving, and will eventually show a sight patina of repaired paint chips, seat wear, etc. At a clubr gathering, a brand new, "off-the-showroom" GTR won the top prize. To me, that's just completely wrong. It seems to me that there were many cars, (mine not included), there that better deserved "best in show". But that's how car shows go... As I did with the 1960 MGA I replaced with my Z, car shows for me are about chatting with folks about my car, and seeing other nice cars. I'm just not anal retentive enough in my restoration or preparation to win a best in class trophy. I appreciate those that do it, but for me it's just not worth it.

It's covering the original, cracked dash. Discussed a molded dash top with my neighbor, but she opted for the dash cover. FWIW, I keep a dash cover on mine, to help protect my original, un-cracked dash... It only comes off for car events.

Yep. That was the first measurement I made. My dash gauge reads right at center mark when coolant temp, (measured at top of radiator), is just over 180 degrees. Didn't think this post would generate this much interest...

And that's why I miss not having access anymore to a 3D printer!

My wife & I took a drive of about 70 miles in the Z today. The temperature in stop-n-go traffic raised to the center mark on the dash guage, about 180 degress. When moving, it quiclky dropped back to just slightly left of the center mark, which I previously measured to be about 173 degrees at the radiator. Still, next time I'll try the Nissan part, (assuming it's still available).

Yes, it will not be possible to get 2D drop-shadows to perfectly mimic a 3D feature. My existing art does a pretty good job of reproducing it around the letters, but suprisingly, the circles and shift pattern are actually more difficult.

Exterior: I stripped all exterior parts, (lights, chrome, grill, rear valance, aluminum door ding strips, etc), and took it to Williams Auto body for a re-paint in a dark BRG. Painted rear panels and grill. Re-installed all lights Re-installed all chrome / exterior metal & badges Installed new door seals, hood seal, etc. (Precision rubber kit). Repairs: Did some minor elecrical and mechanical repairs. Installed new Pertronix ignition & coil. Interior: Re-uhpolstered the seats, transsmision tunnel and replaced shift handle. Removed & replaced interior plastic panels in rear seaction, and replaced antenna. Ran speaker wires for future sound upgrade. Dyed sun-faded, interior vinyl and installed chrome stripe on door panels. Removed , cleaned-up & re-installed aluminum threashold plates. Re assembled interior, (about 80% complete). To-Do: Complete fastening down one rear panel. Still need to obtain & install front bumper over-rider Install tires on old slotted wheels Hood Badge, (have to drill holes) Replace battery Restore and install interior scuff plates. Some paint touch-up, etc. Detail car Change fluids

Mike, My current art includes a grey drop shadow, but the fony isn't quite right and proportions of the font & shift pattern needs to be adusted. Using yours, I should be able to make it pertty close.