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Oiluj

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Everything posted by Oiluj

  1. Unless you plan to make it a "show" car, paint it as you like.
  2. I'm guessing 2500 with me and 212 HP. The calculator says it' should be a little over 13 seconds and almost 103 MPH. Seems optimistic to me... I do remember years ago watching a late 70's Chevy SS driven by a teenager take on a good driver in a Lotus. The Lotus took off and left the SS in the dust while he ineffectually spun his tires. It's often not just the car, but also the driver...
  3. I know how you feel. On my previous 240Z, (many years ago), I had that done to me not once, but THREE times!
  4. I had to remove 1 coil from my front Eibach springs to get the car to sit flat. I took the coils from the top. Since it only lowered the front about 3/8", I noticed no significant difference in suspension travel. However, with so little change, it also did not seem any significant effect on camber either.
  5. Not my cup of tea, but nicely done!
  6. Red-line is the same at 7K. The stroker engine puts out 212 HP at just over 200 ft-lbs torque. I'm thinking the std 3.364 diff will be fine because of the extra torque. The 3.545 diff would probably be better for the reason you state, as 5th gear may only usable above 60 mph.
  7. I'm about to replace my 4-speed with a 1978 5-speed and am debating whether to start looking for a 3.545 rear end. I have a 2.7 stroker, with more HP & torque, so I may be OK wth the 3.364 stock diff. I put together this chart to compare the gearing to the stock set-up. RPM vs Drivetrain.pdf
  8. Given the weight and drag of our cars is fixed, I agree with John that it's more a function of engine displacement and a good fuel mixture ratio, but mostly the driver. My 2.7 L stroker w/ round-top carbs gets 26 MPG on the freeway if I drive in a sane, (but not boring), fashion. I havn't measured "in-town" milelage, but I'm guessing it's between 15 to 17 mpg. This is actually better than what I get from my 1997 ES300 (Lexus V6 Camry). But then the Z is a much lighter car... Out of curiosity, I played with advancing the timing and leaning-out the idle mixture a bit and saw no measureable difference. Perhaps there is some small amount to be gained by minor ajdustments of valve timing, as done in modern engines.
  9. The un-cracked dash alone is worth over $1K. Can't tell much else about the condition of the console and the rest of the interior, but many of these parts and the glass have value. If the bumpers are straight, they are worth about $300+, depending on their condition. Other "original" parts, if in good condition, have value as well. If you can find documentation showing the car truely has only 71K on the clock, the engine & drive train should be in pretty good shape as well. If you can get it for under $2,000, it's probably still a good buy as a parts car. Find a car with a good body but trashed interior and build one good one.
  10. Panasports.... What are on mine and I really like'em. (see pic below)
  11. You will need a spring compressor to get the top of the struts back into the tower. I found the back struts could be be muscled-in without using the compressors, but not the fronts, even after cutting one coil from the springs to get the car to sit level.
  12. until
    Held at the Park in Burlingame, CA, (South of San Francisco). It's a local event run by the Lion's Club to support local charities. Food, vendors, crafts, etc. Smaller show with cars of all types, from the 1920's to modern, sports cars, vintage classic, muscule cars, hot rods, customs & exotics. Every year the mix of cars is different. There will be at least one 240Z on display. (mine). Washington Park at the corner of Burlingame Avenue and Carolan Drive (East of the tracks next to Burlingame High School)
  13. Attended the ZONC Z gathering at Brisbane marina on SF Bay. Good group of people and it was nice to chat with other Z owners. I'm guessing there were about 40 cars total, (S30's, a couple S31's & 32's, 350's and 370's, 3 GTR's, a couple 510's and a 1600 roadster). The Mach 5 was there as well. Here's a few pics.
  14. No such thing as not ready. Just a different stages of condition. Most classic Z fans are appreciative of cars that are actually "driven"... Mine's got a few small paint nicks to prove it's no show-queen, the most notable is a stone chip on one wheel and a small amount of curb rash on a wheel rim edge.
  15. Thanks. I like the color of yours as well.
  16. Looks like I'll be able to make it. See you there!
  17. I'm signed-up to display my car on the 9th, but may not make it.
  18. Got them at Autozoneo about a year ag. They were inexpensive, "Blazer" brand halogen driving lights. They do a decent job of improving visibility at normal, (non-autobon), freeway speeds and I'm happy with appearance. I did have to modify the backets to make them fit in the barke ducts.
  19. Actually, those are meant to be brake cooling ducts, but I found lights that would fit...
  20. They begin to break down after 5 years or so. Still much cheaper than replacing paper air filters.
  21. Beams may drop down at high speed, as I assume the front lip spoiler will flex a little under load. Not a problem for me since I don't drive fast at night... Of course, it would be easy to install some support brackets from the frame rail to prevent this from happening.
  22. Here's how I mounted mine...
  23. I also have the K&N in both my Z and daily driver, (an old 97" ES300). Great product, wouldn't go back to paper. Does require you actually clean and re-oil it occasionally. Be aware they are not a "forever" replacement and do have a "lifetime". I've found them to be good for about 5 to 7 years max.
  24. Oiluj

    Bob Sharp Racing

    Saw that car at Les's shop about a year ago. Very cool car!
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