Oiluj

Here's a pic of the control panel. Realized my selector switch nomenclature was not clear and went with symbols. (see pic). I need to redo the lower strip, as it has a defect and reposition the middle strip as it's not quite straight.

Lastly, I need to make the control nomenclature on the facia match the new functions of the system. I’m going to print new control labels on adhesive backed mylar and cover with clear tape. The place these over the markings on the facia plate. (See pic) I’ll have to paint the embossed “DEF” above the bottom control black. This is not finished yet, but it's pretty easy and should look OK.

The Vintage Air (Indak) rotary fan speed switch was incompatible with the stock facia plate, and decided to see if I could make the stock fan switch work. I mapped-out the connections for both the Indak and original Z fan speed switchs. The original switch will work if I add a jumper wire for the A/C power. It's the A/C wires shown on the circled section of the wiring diagram. (See Pics)

I wanted my HVAC controls for my aftermarket Vintage Air unit to look as close to "stock" as possible. Tried different approaches that didn't require modification of the stock controls, but was not satisfied. Finally gave-up and had to bend one control arm and drill a few holes. I fabricated some custom brackets to mount the Vintage air controls and connected them to the control arms with pushrods. (See Pics) The rubber pads prevent rattles.

Well, yesterday actually... Got my next door neighbor's Green 1972 Automatic 240Z "on the road" for the first time in almost 3 years. She is the original owner and want's me to do a refresh on hers when I'm done with mine. Has some rust in the quarter panels under the doors, but not terminal. Will get it taken care of when it goes in for paint.

One of my mirrors wa still not that tight, so I put some thin, 0.030" thick rubber between the housing & the ball. Fixed the problem.

I'm still thinking about this also. A determined, proffessional thief will get your car no matter what you do. 1st: An alarm system, especially with a flashing indicator will deter some thieves. 2nd: Any means or preventing the car from running will stop "casual" theives. 2nd: A means to track you car if stolen by a determined thief.

pretty much the same thing I did, but used fiberglass cloth. Yours will probably be stronger.

Yes, sodium bicarbonate will inhibit rust, for awhile, but there's a saying I like: "rust never sleeps".. The poster's location is Austin TX where it's fairly humid. Won't last as long as in say, Phoenix... BTW, baking soda can be used to clean rust from some materials. I use a paste of baking soda to clean rust stains from my sails.

Wow! That's really the way to do it. Get some primer on that baby quick. Or Just clear coat it and pretend it's a Delorean... *grin*

If you go with the 3.1 stroker, add the expense of adding stich-welds to stiffen the chassis to your project. Otherwise you risk twisting the chassis it out-of shape. If this happens, you risk being unable to align the wheels or have alignment issues with the drive train. Knew a guy who learned this the hard way...

Looking Good!

Rebello built my engine. I took it to them and put it in mayself. Give them a call...

I'm thinking of buying the MSA short throw shift kit. Has anyone installed one and can you give your opinion on how they like it? Here's a link: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PRC02A

Given it's an aluminum head and will warp if overheated, I'd replace the head gasket sooner than later. Replacing the head costs a lot more than a head gasket. You can R&R the head in an afternoon.

The cracks at the rear quarter are somewhat common, especially if the car was driven "hard". The roof is joined by spot welds covered with lead filler. Hard cornering or accidents can overstress/flex the joint and the paint cracks. Not neccesarly a bad thing, but an indicator that you should look more closely for evidence of damage to the chassis.

Try cleaning the battery terminals and checking the starter cable / ground connections. You can have a good enough connection to run low wattage items, but not turn the starter.

OK, that makes sense... I had considered it might be a ground problem, but hadn't fully thought it through as you did. I'll check that out this weekend. Thanks for the input!

Everything they said. I found it takes two people. One outside pressing down where the rope is and one inside working the rope.

If you have dyslexia, would'nt you have called it lisdexia? Sorry, couldn't resist....

OK, here’s an interesting observation / dilemma. I have a strut brace-bar in my engine bay, the typical round, chrome bar as sold by MSA. (attached pic) When adjusting the idle on my front carb, the screwdriver shank contacts the strut bar, making a metal-to-metal contact. When adjusting my idle speed the other day, I noticed a weak “ignition spark” from my screwdriver tip to the idle screw, just before it touches. So it looks like I have a high voltage leak somewhere in the ignition system, but can’t find it. At first I thought the ignition wires were to blame, but it happens with both my old and new ignition wire sets. I’ve verified that the high voltage ignition wires are not contacting metal anywhere, and are at least 1/4” from any grounded metal surface. Same for the high voltage wire from the coil to distributor. Further, I can grab any of the ignition wires without feeling a jolt. - (Dumb mech engr type of test). After all, if I can’t see the electrons, they don’t exist and can't hurt me, right? Any thoughts on what to look at next?

The rod broke-off on one of my tail lights during dis-assembly. I removed the chrome strip and drilled two small holes in the lens under the chrome strip. Counter-sunk the holes and used long 4-40 machine screws to capture the lens to the housing. Applied a little adhesive to the srew heads to prevent them from turning and to make them water-tight. Worked great.

Looks Great!

That's the color, (white), of the one I rode in. Belongs to a vendor that took me to lunch. Pretty amazing car. Maybe in my next life...

Quite a car! Very quick and it does well in the corners, though we didn't push it that hard. Acceleration felt similar to the Z06 Corvette I was in a while back. Had some fun scrolling through the various screens on the central display, and the G-Force screen is interesting for the passemger to watch. My only complaint is the funky door handles that could use some re-engineeing. Other than that, I was impressed.