Oiluj

I've been tinkering with a spreadsheet to understand the impact of spring rate on wheel rate / suspension frequency for my 240Z. It is based on a spreadsheet a buddy used. I modifed for the Z, making a few assumptions along the way on the approach to the calculations. I used a web-based spring calculator for the estimating the spring rates. (There is a web link embedded in the spreadsheet). The spreadsheet is a bit messy and has not been fully verified for computational accuracy. Also, I just "guessed" at the suspension component weights, (used to calculate unsprung weight). Attached is the excel worksheet. It's been a fun exercise, but not being the smartest guy in the room, I expect there may be a few errors... Perhaps some of you can have some fun with it, point-out any errors and let me know what you think. 240Z Suspension Spreadsheet.xls

Here's where I installed mine. They are mostly for looks, but do provide some benefit in foggy conditions in lighting the road edge without blinding drivers coming the other direction. They are basically H4 bulbs in a wide-angle lenses, so they are not super bright.

Why not just make some. Just aluminum rod, a drill press & a thread tap. With polishing, would probably take no more than 1 hour.

Lori just called me back in. They blew-up the Z... What a waste, even if it was a 2+2. I hope it was really rusty under the paint...

Update: My wife just called me back into the room. Someone driving the Z just shot a model & drve off screeching the tires. I wonder if it will only be used this episode. With the killer driving the car, it may end-up crashed by the end of the program.

My wife is watching watching a new show on "Lifetime". I was in the living room playing a RPG (Neverwinter Nights), on my laptop when she told me to look-up. It's the premier of the show is "Hostile Make-Over". Early in the show the heroine drives a late 70's, silver/blue 280Z 2+2 into what appears to me a mechanic's shop. Even my wife (so far), finds the show "miss-able", but at least it has a Z...

Sweet car for only $3800! For the gas smell start with the fuels hoses, then carb tune, then the myriad of gas tank hoses.

Been almost 20 years since I rebuilt an L24, but if I recall correctly, you have to loosen the chain tensioner. Before you do this, bring cyl #1 to TDC and note the position of everything.

Ditto on the posts above. Won't buy from him unless I can't get it elsewhere.

Wow! Glad to hear it all turned out OK.

All advice above is right-on. Biggest thing for me was to not apply glue to the perimeter edges. Left about 1-1/2 on all sides unglued. Went back and added glue to the back edge after installation. Sides and front are well captured by the roof structure. Made it much easier.

I did the same thing on my previous Z. I did a junkyard exchange of my early 71' seats for late 72' seats. You'll appreciate it even more over time...

It's a great idea, no chrome to pit, no rust. Even polished stainless will not "shine" quite the way way good chrome does, and they are very expensive. Last time I looked, reproduction chrome bumpers were about $750 without the rubber, but it's been a while... I actually like that they have kept the 3-piece rear to maintain the original look. Heck, with stainless you can always weld and polish it to make it one piece, but that's easier to do with carbon steel and chrome. If I needed bumpers, I might consider it, but would probably stick with chrome, since it chrome bumpers last at least 10 years and can be re-plated.

I like the colored ones much, much better. (Are two much's too much?) Your car looks great!

Nothing to do with Zeddsaver, but I had an "uncomfotrable" experience with a local upholstery guy. He did a great job on my cars in the past, but now I won't use him. He appears to have developed a mental problem. I went in for a quote on my Z seats and he literally started "raving" about bad customers and government conspiries. Told him I'd think about it and never went back. Found out a co-worker had a similar experience. Really too bad...

Wow! If it's only minor rust, that sounds like a great deal.

My thinking is that anything that will remove paint will damage the vinyl. Have you considered vinyl paint? I believe SEM makes a product for this purpose. Don't know if it could cause a cracking problem down the road though... Also, have read that Armor-All may accelerate cracking of the dash. To be safe, I'd wash it off with mild soap and water.

I have the S12 calipers on my 72' with 15" wheels. Lots'a room. Would also fit the S12W's with no problem.

To my eye, it doesn't look that bad... I used the silver colored vinyl insert and is a pretty close match to the paint. The pics aren't that good, but give you an idea of how it came out...

I broke the clps on mine, but didn't want anything "obvious" showing on the exterior. I counter-sunk the hole in the lens and used a wide, flat head machine screw to replace the pin. Then put the chrome strip over the top. (This was while the lens was dis-assembled). Assembled the lens to the rear body with sealant and used a small nut on the back as the "safety" retainer.

Cover with thin paper and rub a pencil across it. It the numbers are stamped, you may be able to read them that way.

The vinyl supplier was: DI Specialty Specialty Division 2930 S. Vail Ave City of Commerce, CA 90040, USA. Comes in sheets that are about 15" x 40". I did take several phone calls and some convincing to get them to sell the raw stock to me... In terms of hints: I had a shop install the rear shock tower covers, I found them difficult to get looking good enough. The rest of the pieces go n pretty easy. Good Luck with your project. Julio

On my previous Z, I was able to get rid of it by doing the following: 1) Eliminate friction. - Used a moto-tool with polishing pad and abrasive polish to make the linkage "balls", "sockets" and shaft where the go theough the bearings to almost mirror-smooth. Get rid of the part-line inside the ball if it is evident. - lubricated all contact areas with silicone grease. - make certain firewall bellows has a slight "pre-load" towards idle. - verify throttle springs are clean and lubricate with spray, dry lubricant. (the stuff used on bike chains). - verify throttle shaft areas are clean and lubricate with spray, dry lubricant. 2) Check vacuum damper diaphram operation. Is it smooth and free? Also, there should be a small amount of play. Hope this helps.

Carl, Thanks for the input. The aluminum molding is still available from this source: http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/rivet.htm The vinyl even comes in colors. I'm using silver. I'm thinking I'll do 3 rivets in the short sections and 4 in the longer sections. Less than before but enough to hold it securely. Julio