Oiluj

Can't tell you about the BD kit. I was very disappointed in the MSA kit and ended-up re-making most of it. It was a waste of money. Hopefully the BD kit is better...

Guys, I do hear and understand what you guys are saying. I prefer it "clean" too. But the reality is, we live, drive and park in an urban area. I seldom have a "choice" of parking places. Point is, I'd rather "drive" my car, than limit my usage or leave it in the garage because I'm afraid to park it at my destination. That means I have to choose between having door moldings or live with lots of dings... So back to my question: Has anybody tried using the double stick to attach this type of molding? If it works, at least I wouldn't be drilling holes... Thanks, Julio

Time to re-install the side molding. It's the aluminum channel, rivet-on type with the inset vinyl strip. I almost hate to do it, the car looks better with clean sides. But without it, living and parking in a urban area means more unsightly door dings, so it's required. Question: Has anyone tried just using the 3M mounting tape to attach this type of molding? It would be much better than drilling a bunch of holes in the car. If so, how's it holding up?

Nope. Used the original metal I removed from the old rubber. I have seen the metal pieces on eBay several times. May also still be available from Nissan.

Carl, What's the difference between US and Euor spec springs? The reason I ask is that my 1972 FSM shows 11mm wire, 3.94" OD, 10.7 coils and a free length of 14.5". The springs that came off my car are a similar wire and coil diamater, but have 8.5 coils. (8 active coils when loaded). The free height of the spings is close at about 14.8". Which springs do I have?

Owner's manual fits in the glove bax and will go back in when she's done. The FSM stays in a drawer with the other paperwork, including the orginal bill of sale.

The holes are supposed to be brake cooling ducts. They are mostly non-functional unless you duct the air coming in towards the brakes. I plan to mount small driving lights in the ducts. One aerodynamic test showed the "duct-less" spook produces a bit more down force that the ducted one like mine. I expect with either spook, it will push a bit more air thru the radiator as well.

Thanks for the input! It's growing on me as well...

Nate, I'll second your Sam Adams Octoberfest. Has a really nice flavor. In terms of proper serving temperature, I like my beer served "really" cold, but then I have been accused of being a bit weird about some things... *grin*

On my previous Z I had a urethane air-dam painted to match the car. I left the lower, protruding lip unpainted with the natural black plastic exposed. If I "accidentally" touched a parking block, there was no paint to chip. It continued to look good for many years despite the occasional parking mis-calculation. Therefore, I'm thinking of adding rubber "U" trim on my front spook to protect the lower lip. Attached are a few pics. Any opinions or suggestions of a better approach?

Installed the windshield yesterday. Used the "cord" method with weed-wacker line and a combination of "KY Jelly" and armor all for lubrication. Worked great! We had the windshield installed in less than 20 minutes total time. Would have been 10 minutes except the corner trim pieces popped out.

A quick thing to note on re-installing the tail light panels. Be careful when re-fitting the rear panels. It's easy to scuff the paint on the upper-outer corners when putting them back in...

If you are not looking for the sorta-rough, stock finish you can use Duplicolor "graphite" color wheel paint. (see pic) It's pretty close to the original color, (slightly darker), and availale at most auto parts stores.

Full Sail Ale & Anchor Steam (appropriate for a sailor and the only beer allowed on my boat). Also partial to Steelhead Brewery's Rhino Red

Carl, That's a very good idea. Would love to make a rotating image 240Z screensaver. I'd re-post these and perhaps one or two others in a slightly larger format, say 1920 x 1080 to provide better resolution for those with HD monitors.

Congrats & welcome! I know just hoow you feel. For what I'll have in my 240 when she's done, I could have boaught a nice used 350Z or Honda 2000. I just like the 240 better!

Nice Pic! Problem is, I don't have one of them new-fangled computer screens that rotate to portrait view... P.S. I really like the dark blue with dual white stripes! Your avatar is a great computer desktop candidate!

Wow! I agree, $60K sounds cheap...

Yep, white vinegar does work! My two female cats literally got into a pissing contest awhile back and white vinegar was the most effective meathod for getting rid of the odor. I followed it up with simple green which also helped to eliminate the residual vinegar odor.

Matt, I know how you feel. I was too hesitant on the first car I spotted. Then had two other guys sell their cars to a classic car dealer after I made an appointment to see the cars the very next day. In my book, that's somewhat unethical, but it seems to happen fairly often... With persistance, within a couple months I did aquire a nice, rustf free example that I'm currently restoring. Keep looking on this site, Craig's List, eBay, etc. There are always Z's for sale. It's just a matter of timing to find the right one. Good luck with your search!

Ditto what they said above. Rust is the enemy, (and a costly enemy to vanquish). Zhome.com does have a good buyers guide. It details the problem areas and things to look for when buying an early Z. What do you mean by the perfect 240Z? If you mean a ready-to-drive, fully restored car that is more or less stock, based on the ads I've seen, expect to pay $14K to $25K, depending upon the quality of the work. Of course, there are exceptions... If you are looking for a good "driver" needing cosmetic restoration or with minor mechanical issues, expect to pay around $4K to $12K, depending upon condition. Less if there are significant rust or mechanical issues. It's typically cheaper to by a restored car or good condition driver than a fixer-upper project car. Unless you have the skills, tools and time to do the work yourself, if you have to pay for resto work, it can be very expensive. That said, there is a wonderful sense of accomplishment associated with doing much of the the work yourself. (That's what I'm doing, but it's not for everybody). Happy hunting and good luck in your search.

Zeodyne, That's a ditto for me as well. Your car looks amazing! Looking at your wheels makes me think I should have gone with 16" panasports instead of the 15's. I went with the ducted spook so I can install small driving lights in the duct slots.

Will post more "desktop" type pics when I get more done!

Arrg! I didn't remember the idea of using a heat gun to heat / soften the rubber. It was in the low sixty's when I was installing the trim. That would have made it much easier! To assist installation of the trim I used a modified screwdriver. Took an old blade screwdriver and rounded the corners and all sharp edges. It worked fine, but I'm sure a purpose built tool would have worked better. Still, it got the job done...

Yep, that's what I did based on good advice fron this site and some additional research.. Still, it was harder than I thought to install the trim. Last time, 15 to 20 years ago, I installed the metal trim afterwards. Took me 1/2 a day and my fingers were sore for a day!