Oiluj
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Everything posted by Oiluj
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Here's a pic of my almost complete engine bay. This weekend I cleaned and painted my fuel rail, installed ignition & alternator wiring, etc. Still need to replace the positive battery cable, install hose clamps and clean-up the emmision components. Starting in mid-January I plan to figure out how I'll mount the compressor, condensor & routing for the AC lines.
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For X-Mas, my buddy Wayne bought me a JADA 72' 240Z. It's not a perfect replica, but it's close enough... What's really cool is he took it to William's Auto Body where I had my car painted. William was finishing my hood and painted the model at the same time using automotive paint. Then Wayne painted the wheels using the Duplicolor graphite wheel paint is used to paint my panasports. It was a real surprise! I'll complete the process by painting the interior to match my car.
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Remember that there are tolerances in the head, valves, etc. If you are at almost minimum clearance, fit tolerances in the head-to-block and valve diameters could produce a "nicking" situation. (Been there, done that). I always prefer to have at least "some" room for tolerances / clearance in moving mechanical systems, especially for a street application.
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Nice! Love to see progress pics!
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Congrats on your new car and welcome! This is the place to find out about Z's.
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You can also get restored lights from Zeddsaver. Best if you have restorable cores. http://zeddsaver.com/
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I meant to type "Cal 500's", not Call 500's.
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Cool! Looks like the Shelby wheels that came with my car are Call 500's. The catalog will let me ID the exact model and determine if the caps are original. I'll be cleaning them up and placing them in the classifids in the Spring.
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Fun to watch, but also hard to see a classic driven that hard.
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Cool! May have to get one of those. There are actually 2 GTR's I've seen in the San Mateo area. One is off-white and often I see the rear end of it as it enters the freeway ahead of me. Monments later it's out of sight...
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Red seat covers are available. I'd go with the red myself to make it "right". If you need any red interior panels, I have a few.
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Are you talking about the riveted-on door ding preventer strips? The aluminum is anodized and the pitting is where the anodized surface has failed. They can be polished, but you will probably need to remove them from the car. The vinyl insert can be restored using any good plastic polish. You can get new stuff at the following link. http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/rivet.htm
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Arne, The pic is too small, but it looks great!
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Since we are showing pics of british cars, here's a pic of the 1960 MGA I sold about 14 months ago before I got my 240Z. I had her for 17 years, restored her myself. Did everything with exception of the paint job.
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Did you also remove the differential? If so, perhaps you installed the mustache bar in backwards. That would move the differential forward about 1".
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All I can sa is Wow! Good to see them go into good hands.
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I'm pretty low at only 21...
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My garage isn't clean enough to show a pic!
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The radiator hangs down and there is about 3/8" intererence fit with the pan at the radiator corners. I was able to carefully form the metal in that area of the pan with a pair of smooth jaw pliers to fit. It still touched, (which I didn't like), to I added a couple thick washers between the frame and pan at the forward mounts near the radiator. Now it has about 0.02" clearance. I've decided that eventually I'll make some 1/8" aluminum spacer plates to drop the whole pan down a touch for a cleaner install. Hope that helps.
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Classic & Sports Car Magazine - "The Joy of Six"
Oiluj replied to rdefabri's topic in Open Discussions
I'd like to see that one as well! The 246 Dino is one of my dream cars... (that I'll never own). -
Yep, mine came out pretty nice as well. I also gave them a "dusting" of clear after they had dried.
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I have the MSA one. The mount points fit fine, but there are two small issues: 1) The radiator hangs a bit lower, requireing you to bend your spash pan (under the engine) to fit. 2) The stock hose from the thermostat to the radiator must be cut, but still is not a good fit. I went to my local NAPA store and bought a generic 90 degree hose that fit much better. Don't yet know how it performs cooling-wise, as my car's not yet roadworthy.
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Welcome! You will find this to be a great place to "hang-out" with lots of people willing to share their knowledge & experience.
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Good to know, even if I'm not willing to fork-over $350 for it...
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Just an FYI. Saw ad on craig's list for a dealer poster signed by Mr. K for $350. Too rich for my blood. No pics, but seller will provide on request. Here's the link. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/943236093.html
