Oiluj

Jim, Thank you for my morning humor! I almost laughed out loud here at work when I read it... Next we can wave dead chikens over the fenders...

So the stock OEM muffler system is still available from Nissan, just in black?

Do what you want, long as it is bolt-on and reversible. Don't throw-away any original components.

MSA has lots of stuff not in thier catalog. Same for Black Dragon. Like Arne says, give them a call.

A tranny jack would have made the job much easier, and yes, the hardest part is lining it up! The car is up on jack stands so there is room to work. I started with the rear of the tranny elevated about 12 to 14 inches on a rolling furniture dolly. I used a small hydraulic jack to control engine tilt-angle to help with alignment. It took about three short lifts by the input shaft, (for greatest leverage / least effort), to adjust the horizontal alignment angle between the engine & tranny. Then I manuvered myself under the front of the tranny, did a bench press, working it into back & forth into position. It actually slid into place without too much twisting around. From start to bolt-up it only took about 70 minutes. I'm sure I'll feel a bit sore tomorrow, but then that's why they make Advil...

Got my tranny mounted-up! It's not fully buttoned-up, but it's attached and bolted-in semi-tight. Can't work on her any more this weekend, but hope to have the starter and clutch slave installed with everything tight by next weekend. Then next weekend I can start working on finishing-up the engine compartment. It may actually be complete someday!

Noooo! Do what Carl says, provide us with the info. That way we can all be on the watch for her. My best wishes for your Z's safe return to you.

Mine's not in yet, but I've got a Sony DEH-2000MP in-dash AM/FM/CD w/ MP3 player input. It's kinda "low-end", but given the acoustics of the Z and that I really prefer the sound of the engine, it will be just fine. Have some decent 5-1/4" co-axial speakers for the rears, (in the orginal locations), and plan to install some 4" coaxials in the front kick panel area. Will be fabricating new kick panels from masonite & vinyl to hold the front speakers.

Regarding the aircraft paint stripper. Get some "good" chemical resistant gloves. I used it to strip a car to bare metal. I started with "industrial" thickness vinyl gloves and after 30 minutes could feel it burning my skin. That problem was solved when I ordered a pair of the proper gloves from McMaster-Carr.

I've been watching the new seris "Life on Mars" set in 1973, waiting to see a 240z.

I found a shotgun shell under the viinyl in one of the tool boxes...

Collector / historical / investment value aside, why wouldn't someone "drive" this car. The final sales price of this essentially "new" car will likely be comparable or below the cost of a newer sports car that lacks the classic appeal of the Z. It's a pretty good deal. I'm not saying I'd drive this car daily, but if I my wife were willing to let me buy it, (unlikely), I would consider drving it to local shows and the occasional Sunday drive. While our early Z's have appeal as objects d'art, in my mind, these cars were made to be driven...

I have the MSA rear spoiler. It also requires drilling holes in the top of the tailgate to mount it down. Fit is good, but I'm not happy with the open cell foam gasket they have on it. I'll be replacing it down the road with closed cell neoprene.

I agree. But that's the "Buy it now", "wish" price. I'm thinking it could end-up selling in the mid-to-high 20's.

I'm using the stock flywheel w/ new clutch, pressure plate & TO bearing. From what I've read, it's fine for 212 HP. The heavier stock flywheel will not rev as quickly, but will help keep a smoother idle for urban street driving. I did replace the front diff mount, but the tranny mount and rear mounts looked good so I'll see how it goes. I prefer using rubber susp bushings over the poly part set I bought before I read how the poly parts result in more transmitted vibration and a harsher ride. Before I tore her down, I did have a "clunk" in the drive train. Upon inspection, the front diff mount was broken. All my u-joints appear to be OK. If I need to replace them, I'll go with Spicer u-joints. I'm hoping it was the front diff mount, because if it's not, it may be the diff. I noticed what appeared to be significant backlash/play when I had it out of the car.

Mike, I did the cover on my previous Z. Granted, I had no deep nicks or scratches, but found that 1000 & 2000 grit w/lunbricant, followed up with a buffer wheel on a drill and polishing rouge did a great job.

100 grit is wa-ay too aggressive and will leave deep scratches. Better to use finer paper and more elbow grease.

Welcome to the site! 15-1/2? You are *new*. Just kidding, it's all relative to us older guys... 78 is a good year and we would love to see pics of your car.

Nice Pixs! Thanks for posting them.

Thanks for the compliment. The engine / engine bay actually looks nicer in the pic than it does in real life. The Carbs need to be polished, the fuel rail needs paint, the various emmisions control finishes are oxidized, etc. Still, I'm happy with the result. Yes, the engine was dyno'd by Rebello. I didn't get the full 240 HP because I specified a slightly lower comp. ratio and less aggresive cam to trade HP for a smoother running engine for street use.

Rich, I just realized I didn't answer all you questions... Turn around time varies with how busy Rebello is, like just before the Nationals, they are really busy. Mine took about 4 months, but I gave them a target date based on when my chassis would be ready. I'm going with the original 4-speed and diff, but may install a 5-speed set-up in a few years for better highway driving. Mine ran about $3800, but varies depending on what you have done and the condition of your carbs, head, etc. There are also some options for compression ratio, cam, carburation dyno tune, etc. Your best bet is to call Dave Rebello and have a short conversation with him. Define what your usage will be, (mostly street, autocross, track), and let him help you decide what the best package would be. Also, above 225 HP, you might want to add some additional frame welds / stiffeners to handle the extra HP.

Yep. That's why I was so surprised to fing red Loctite on the drain plug threads!

On the passenger side, about Half-way up. It's a square plug.

I'm having difficulty getting the fill plug out of my transsmission. Based on what I saw from removing the drain plug, the PO used red loctite and a ga-zillion ft-lbs of torque to install them. So far all I've managed to do is ruin one 17 mm end wrench and slightly round a couple corners of the plug. Two days of alternating heat and spraying w/ CRC Freze-Off has had no effect. The plug looks to be 17 mm square across the flats. I've been looking for a square socket, but all I can find is 11/16". (Craftsman, Snap-On, McMaster-Carr). I can't install the tranny untill this is solved... Any ideas, tricks or a source of where to get the right size socket? Thanks,