Oiluj

I installed the Toyota 4-piston calipers in front. They are an easy bolt-on. Got a ZX rear calipers/rotor kit on eBay. Rears will be installed soon as I complete the rear axle rebuild. Tough part is disassembling the rear axles to get the drum backing plates off. I'm making an axle plate to attach to a slide hammer this weekend... Should have the rears on in about two weeks, so I can tell you then how the install goes. Won't be able to tell you how they perform for several months when the car will be operational. Figure if I don't like the front/rear bias, I'll just add a proportioning valve.

I like the look of white Z's. How about a pearl white? Lexus as a nice shade.

Was in the San Diego area for the Miramar Air Show this weekend. On Sunday afternoon we saw a very clean, burgandy 240z on I-5. We were in my buddy's Honda Accord and it was moving a bit faster than traffic, so all we saw was the rear-quarter view. It cornered very well exiting the freeway... Was that anybody here? BTW, the air show was worth the trip. The Super Hornet demonstrations were performed with precision and the F-22 demo was amazing!

I'm interested in seeing the solution. I have the same front sway bar and am about to drop my enginge back into the car. My guess is that spacers under the mounts will easily solve this.

Guy, I found out I have what looks like a stage II cam, (480 lift / 268 duration), and a 9.8:1 compression ratio.

Based on your description, sounds like you should produce similar HP. My guess is your E-31 head will be comparable to my Rebello E88 "touring" head, especially with your more aggressive cam.(Think I have a stage one, but have to verify w/ Dave).Our compression "target" was 9.5:1, to allow use of mid-grade gas, but I told him 10:1 was OK.That's one of the follow-up questions I have for Dave.For my intended usage, 10 cents more per gallon for premium gas is not an big issue. What are you doing for the fuel system? My understanding is that the stock carbs are good to about 200 HP, and re-jetting can buy you a bit more. From what I've read is that beyond that, you need to upgrade.I'm sticking with the stock exhaust manifold, but going with 2" or 2-1/4" exhaust pipe. Dave gave me a larger downtube, (the one he used on the dyno), to help with the exhaust flow.

First, it's really not an L24 anymore, it's a L27...Anybody got a 270Z exterior badges? *grin* I really don't know the specifics of what they did. I provided Dave with a descripton of my budget, intended usage, and that I wanted more torque for drivability and the A/C. He discussed a few options, but after meeting with him, I was comfortable enough to just say "do what you do". I know that they reworked the combustion chambers, ported & polished the head, installed an upgraded cam, followers, etc. My guess is that it includes larger valves as well. I don't know if they shaved/shimmed the head. I do know the only original part on the head is the casting. The block was bored-out with new, (260/280?), crank. All external gear replaced, (water pump, fuel pump, etc). Carbs were re-jetted, (larger). I'm sure they also advanced the ignition a bit. One nice thing, unless you are racing or abuse the engine, they warranty their work. I have to call Dave this week and ask hm for some more info. Some of what they do is "proprietary", so don't expect too much.

I echo Beandip's comment. I'm glad you don't live near me with an un-muffled engine. An un-muffled engine is fine at the track, but not on the street. Having a decent muffler is not only a courtesy to others, almost everywhere it's a legal requirement. Just my 2 cents...

Made a 4' long reaction bar with some steel "U" channel. I used a 5' heavy pipe on my breaker bar as a "cheater" with a 27 mm impact socket to get more torque on the nuts. The "stubborn" nut took an estimate 700 ft-lbs of torque to break free. The other only about 500. This week I'll make a plate to mount on the axle flange so I can attach a slide hammer for removal the axle. Oh what fun!

Will, Sign me up for a 240-4speed emblem!

I'm no expert, but am with Conedodger on this one. I went with the Rebello 2.7 L upgrade not because I wanted more HP, but for the torque. More torque is better for low speed / street driving, and makes an S30 nicer to drive. I drove a friend's stroked Z years ago when I had my stock 240 and the difference was significant. High HP provides more performance at freeway speeds and on the track. If you plan to autocross, my guess is that higher torque will buy you more than the added HP... How about adding a turbo to a stroked engine... Now that would be Fun! Just my 2 cents.

Sorry to hear that. What a bummer!

Not a smart arse comment at all, but yes, I removed the peened sections. That's why it's so surprising that they won't break free. Looks like they have never been serviced, so after 36 years, they just don't want to come apart... Will be making a reaction bar this weekend.

I can't seem to remove the rear axle nuts to service the wheel bearings and install my rear disc brakes. I've read the archive posts and tried a few of the procedures without success. Also, an impact wrench (suggested by a local Datsun mechanic), seems to have no effect... I don't have brakes installed, so I can't engage the parking brake. With tires chocked and a 4' breaker bar, all that happens is that I rotate the tire. (not enough traction and the tire slips on the garage floor). I'm thinking of removing the rear struts and put the drive flange in a bis a$$ vise to hold the assembly and work on it off the car. DQOTD: Also, just to be sure, the nuts are right-hand thread, right? Any helpful tips?

As of Monday, my garage also contains my rebuilt Rebello engine! Will be installing it in a few weeks, but have much to do before I can drive it..

Remember, when married; what's hers is hers, and whats yours is hers....

1972 240Z, 78 K miles (resto-mod in-progress) 1997 Lexus ES 300, 140K miles (DD) 1996 Lexus SC 300, 150K miles (Wife's car) 80's Seafarer 30 Sailboat. (not really in the garage, in the water). I've always loved aviation. In fact, I started college as an aero engineer in the mid 70's. Even TA'd the flight sim lab. After a year I saw the writing on the wall regarding job availability/security and moved over to major in MechEngr. Never got my pilot's license, but have flown a number of aircraft, including some aerobatics in a Citabria and an AT-6. (It was a blast!). When I was younger, I never had the money to pursue my license and now the eyes are going south. Did fly RC planes for about 5 years, but gave it up to have a sailboat. I have only so much free time and the boat requires a lot of maintenance. In fact, the boat has suffered from neglect over the last year because of the Z restoration and home projects. I'll pay for that in many additional hours of labor next Spring. Probably something like 100 hours... (arrrgg!)

I just did the Rebello 2.7 liter upgrade on my L24. Dyno results are 212 HP and 197 ft-lbs of torque. I went with a milder cam to get a smooth idle at the expense of the additional HP. Dave indicated that it peaks at 6200 rpm and revs nicely to 7000. I can recommend Rebello. Dave is great to work with and runs a first class shop.

I just installed Toyota 4 piston calipers on my 72' 240Z. I noticed that there are no anti-squeal plates in the caliper box. Should there be? I did a search and found nothing that mentions anti-squeal plates for the Toyota calipers. Thanks,

I got my BRE style from MSA. It does have the molded Half-circle to provide clearance for the latch button. It does not have any forward ribs or flat on back, and the back is slightly concave. (see attached pic). Hope this helps...

I also like having the emblems. I've already mounted the side and vent emblems. The hood emblem and, (maybe), rear emblems will go on as well.

Looks like it's happeniing quickly. You'll soon be out of paint jail!

Thanks for the input and pics everyone! Since I planned to install a spoiler, I had the emblem holes in the rear deck welded over when it was in paint prep to eliminate potential leakage issues. My spoiler is the BRE style with the curved face rear face, (no flats). I'm not worried about attachment, as I've got some 3M foam emblem tape. If I recall, it's about 0.015" thick. I've stacked layers to mount emblems on curved surfaces and it's worked well for years without any problem. I learned the trick is to clean all surfaces "exceptionally" well, then install on a warm, dry surface and wait 24 hours to allow the adhesive to "set". I still not certain what I'm going to do. Guess I'll wait until I have the car back on it's wheels. Then we and can look at it out in the sun with emblems installed with masking tape in various locations.

Not so worried about being "correct", just what looks good... I'm leaning towards just putting on the "240Z" emblem on the right side.

Ok, need your opinion on emblem location on a BRE style rear spoiler. . 1) Should I install emblems on the spoiler? . 2) Install just the "240Z" emblem, "Datsun" Emblem, or both? . 3) Where to locate emblem(s)? Figured it's all been tried before, so why re-invent the wheel... Post pics if you have them. Thanks!