Oiluj

Listen to Carl... 9.5:1 compression is what I specified for my engine because of the quality of gas these days... Higher than 10:1 means you have to start putting in octane boost additives in each tank of gas and that gets expensive!

Very nice ad. I'd buy it if I could, but don't have space for two Z's

Carl, There is much truth in what you say. I was VERY careful to ask just these types of questions when I insured my MGA with CSAA many years ago. Also, not all insurance companies are created equal. I've been with CSAA since 1971, and while they are a bit more expensive, they have always taken care of me without hassle. (no, I don't work for CSAA...). When I brought the MGA in to CSAA in late 1990, it had a stated value of $12K. CSAA inspected the car and took lots of photos to document condition. In 1995 it was side-swiped by a lady in a small truck w/ no insurance. While the body damage was minimal, to repaint required substantial disassembly with a $7,100 total cost to repair. I met with the CSAA adjuster, showed him the car, my documentation and stated value policy agreement. I highlighted that this was not your "average" car. They paid with no questions asked. I think a lot has to do with how well you present your case, as well as the insurance adjuster you get. Early S30's are now considered collector cars. You don't see them on the road everyday, especially in "like new" condition. I think that a restored 240Z with good documentation will be viewed by my insurer in a similar fashion as my MGA was back then. Time will tell... Just my 2 cents... and maybe not worth that much!

Just an FYI: I looked at the Haggerty web site and find that while inexpensive, the policy is a bit too restrictive for my needs. I called my insurance, (CSAA), and they told me that with reciepts showing what I have invested in the car, (or alternately a professional appraisal), I can insure my Z for a stated or actual $ value. I plan to bring my purchase docs and big ticket reciepts to CSAA when the restoration is done and insure the car with a replacement value reflecting what I've invested. Did the same thing with my MG before I sold it. While it will cost roughly 2x more than collector car insurance, there are no restrictions on how I use the car and no annual mileage limits. I'm guessing that most other insurance companies will do the same.

I answered a Craig's List add for some Z parts and picked-up a set of aluminum rear window louvers for only 20 bucks. They came with all hardware and don't even need to be re-finished! These are the older curved slat type that rest outside the rear window seal and require screw mounting onto the hatch. (Not like the smaller ones sold by MSA that mount under the hatch rubber and rest on the glass). I know some don't like the look, but I like keeping sun off the interior. Been looking for one of these for about 4 months and missed-out twice, but managed to snag this one before someone else beat me to it. My insurer offers a discount with a third brake light, so I'm thinking of fabricating a third brake light that will mount under the top slat. More on that later after I figure out what to do and make a prototype.

Delivered my engine to Rebello Racing this morning. Attached is a pic of the engine just before we loaded it up into my buddy's truck. Met Dave Rebello and he gave us a tour of the shop. Engine should be done in about 6 weeks. It will be bored-out to 2.8 L with a 280 crank and mild cam on an "almost" stock E88 head. According to Dave, it's sort of a mild ITS build and should put out about 200 HP with plenty of added torque. She won't be a powerhouse, but should maintain a smooth idle and have good drivability. Turn's out Rebello's is located about 1/8th mile from the house I grew-up in! We passed by the old house on the way. It's still painted the same color and it looks like the current owner's are taking good care of it. Like going back in time...

I meant to type "reasonable" not resonable. I need to stop and proof-read my posts...

Still have to figure out a resonable price for everything. Have other stuff to do that takes priority so I plan to post the parts for sale in about 2 weeks.

Thanks for the info. I thought I'd sen right side mirors in that style. Perhaps it was just wishful thinking... Bummer. Guess I'll have to consider other options...

I think they were factory stock on some 260 & 280Z's. I'm thinking a pair of these might look "cleaner" than the MSA black pearl repros. Do you know if they are still available? Any issues installing these mirrors on a 240? Thanks, Julio

I'm changing the interior to black & charcoal. Yes, it "IS" blasphemy, but that's what I had on my previous 240 and I really liked it... That's why I'm selling the left-over red parts. I've got both red door panels in very good shape and the interior plastic panels in good shape, (with the exception of one quarter window panel that has some cracks). Also have one seat cover in good condition, (not perfect, but useable). Could be used as a replacement if someone needs only one. I have to figure out an asking prices for these parts. Am planning to post them here first, then on eBay.

I have original red interior panels I'll be selling soon. Most in good condition, one of the quarter window panels has a few cracks.

McMaster-Carr p/n 4810T192 1/4" BSPT Hex Head Plug, 304 S. Steel - $2.10 ea or if you prefer McMaster-Carr p/n 4810T182 1/4" BSPT Square Head Plug, 304 S. Steel - $2.22 ea If you go to the McMaster-Carr website, type in the p/n in the upper box for the catalog page with pictures.

Check your gauge out on another engine to verify it's not reading low.

Where was this car when I was looking! Looks pretty nice. As bkelly indicated, I'd be talking to you if I wasn't in the middle of doing one already... For selling to a non-local buyer, try to look at the car as if you were a non-local buyer. What questions would you ask? I think some statements relating the non-perfect items such as the dash cover, usual dents in the bottom of the front frame rails, battery area, etc will help reduce buyer questions. Post info on engine & drive train condition, indicating any fluid leaks, (or lack of leaks), the condition of brakes, tires, etc. Have some close-up pics of the rust prone areas: quarter panels, dog legs, front floor boards, spare well and hatch deck. Indicate when the car was last painted, interior refreshed, and any details of what was done. Also indicate total miles on rebuild of engine, if applicable. The more detailed information you provide, the fewer questions you will get. I agree that I'd try to sell first to a site member, because they know what they are looking at and what is a reasonable value for the car. If that doesn't work, then I'd try your local Craig's List and eBay. I've sold a motorcycle on eBay and sold cars on Craig's list. I had no problem with eBay, but did not have the same experience as in bkelly's post above. I tried to eliminate potential issues by being VERY clear about shipping and escrow requirements for non-local buyers. I also set a "firm" minimum price. From my listing: "I will not accept offers below the asking price, so don't waste your time and mine with a lower offer". Sometimes though, no matter what you do, you get an a-hole as bkelly described. It's the luck of the draw... Good luck with selling the car. I expect she will sell fast.

Montanagrl, You are in Santa Clara? Perhaps we could orgnaize a peninsula Z rendevous with other local 240/260/280 owners. (after my car's done this fall).

I was in a hurry when I posting as the wife wanted to leave, and was trying to keep it short. Yes, not "true" libre's, but as the listing said, "almost identical". I figured you could all read the listing... FWIW, they are identical enough for me. In fact, I had not already bought panasports, I would have probably bid on them, (after seeing more detailed photos of all wheels). Looking back at pics of my previous 1971 240, I really can't tell the diffference, though I'm certain a more discerning eye could.

Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carroll-Shelby-Libre-wheels-240Z-260Z-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43954QQihZ018QQitemZ280205728955QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks for the referral, but I already delivered the car to Williams Auto Body in San Mateo. William is very familiar w/ early Z's and from what I saw does good work. I stripped her down pretty well, no fixed glass, no interior, no chrome. Attached is a pick of the delivery to the body shap a week ago.

The lights can be inside the windshield or grill and non-obvious, as long as they are readily visible when lit. The police markings need not be the contrasting "black & white". I've seen markings on some police cars that are very subtle, but still fit the "distinctively marked" requirement. I'll be watching out!

I'm planning on ordering an aftermarket A/C kit for my 1972 240Z in about 6 weeks so I'll have it when the car comes back from the paint shop. I've searched the previous A/C posts, gained some insight into Z air conditioning, but still have a few specific questions for you Z guru's... (especially Carl Beck). To start, here's what I gleaned from the previous posts: 1) The fan "pulls" through the heat exchangers, is not very powerful and limits cool air delivery. 2) There is poor circulation in the interior, limiting air conditioner effectiveness. (I'm planning to install a rear window louver that should help reduce the greenhouse effect). 3) On most of these systems, (but not all), the A/C heat exchanger hangs down low into the passenger footwell. (Ugly and encroaches on passenger foot space). I read in the posts some units hang down lower than others. I've found several sources for A/C kits: MSA, Courtesy Auto, Nostalgic Air, Vintage Air, Hotrod Air. Question: Based on the pics, it looks like the MSA and Courtesy Auto kits are sourced from Nostalgic Air. Is this true? If not, which of these takes-up the least real estate in the passenger footwell? Vintage Auto's kit is not "specific" to the 240Z. The vintage air kit looks like it's a more modern unit, replacing the existing air box, air valves and heater core. The controls appear to be servo operated, not manual like the stock set-up. In searching the posts, it looks like Carl Beck installed the Vintage Air unit. Question: It looks like this unit would be less obtrusive into the interior. Is this true? Question: How hard is it to convert to the Vintage Air unit? What are the main issues? Controls Set-Up? Given the cost of these A/C kits, I really appreciate any sage advice before I place an order...

In California, (from the DMV web page), model year 1975 and older for vehicles less than 14K pounds.

Here's a pic of the exhaust air tube plugs I got from McMaster-Carr. They are 1/4" BSPT hex head and I think they look pretty nice. With that big hex head, I'll be able to remove them if required...

Wow! That was a score. Libres are my absolute favorite wheels on 240z's. My previous Z, (early 1990's), was a white 71 with Libre's. Great wheels.