Oiluj

Had no issue fitting the "Precision" front & rear window seals in my 240Z. Fit fine and no leaks.

I used vinyl sound deading material that I got a few years ago from McMaster Carr. Works well, no smell. Will see how well it adheres over time...

On my stroker, I get slight pinging if the ignition is advanced beyong stock timing of 5 BTDC. This is with NGK BP plugs. Have read that using non-projected plugs *may* reduce pinging / allow more advanced timing in higher compression engines.

Can you ask Jason post some pics of the car? For $30K I'm guessing it's a pretty nice specimen. Is it located in Indiana?

I've used kerosene in the crankcase to clean things up with good results. My protocol was: Warm-up engine. Remove 1 qt of oil & add 1 qt of kerosene. Idle for 15 minutes routine in the past on previous vehicles. Immediately change oil and filter, run engine at idle 10 minutes. Change oil & filter again. Did that twice in 1 week on my previous Z's L-24 and it seemed to do a good job of cleaning-out the accumulated years of crud & gunk. Oil stayed lookng cleaner, longer than it had before. (of course, if your rings or valve seals are worn, oil will still get dirty pretty quick). No evidence of ill effect on bearing surfaces found in tear-down of engine, (years later). YMMV

This is the place! Use the search function to find threads that will answer most tech questions. Browsing the galleries & garage pics will help with styling questions. Welcome!

looks great!

Just what I was thinking...

Seems kinda wierd that he won't sell expect to locals. If flew up there to look at a car and wanted to buy it, (as I did with my Z), I don't see how it makes a difference. But they are his cars, so his rules apply...

Arne: What do you recommend for the "center" muffler/resonator? I have a 18" bullet muffler which works OK, but not as well as the stock muffler.

Sounds great. Really wish I could attend, but Texas is just a bit too far to drive...

Sweet!

I love 510's and would love to own one as a daily drive. However, for $20K, one could buy a very nice late 350Z... Perhaps not as cool, but much more car for the money.

Reminds me of one of my favorite job related quotes. "When considering a job change, never violate the first rule of wing walking: Don't let go to what you've got, till you grab hold onto something else".

That's what I did. Works fine. Make sure it's thin, or it can impinge on operaation of the lock. (ask me how I know that...).

Bypassed them on my previous car, and in temps below 50 degrees F, I noticed it took longer to warm-up. It was very noticable when the tem dropped to around 40F.

I'm assuming that as a working college student, time & money are a reasonably scarce. Because of this, I tend to agree with your Dad. A newer Civic, Corolla or a 3-to-5 year old Accord or Camry, Mazda 3, etc will be reliable enough to be a daily driver you can depend on, without having to spend a lot of money & time on maintenance. The problem with older, collectible cars is that unless you "restore" all the major systems to "as new", it will be less reliable than a modern car. This restoration will require you invest the about the same amount of money as a newer car, and lot's of your time. Otherwise, that old car will likely be less reliable and cost you more time & money to keep it running than a newer car. Also, for something like a 1970's 510 most parts won't be "on the shelf" at your local O'Rielly's Auto... I know that's probably not waht you wanted to hear...

Can you say quality management, statistics and process control?

Long as you are not trying to win a car show in the "original" category, it makes more sense to go with side connections on the battery. No concern of the positive terminal contacting the inspection lid, and less chance of sparks fliying when servicing the connections.

With that title, I considered posting a "moon" shot...

I'll echo what's been stated above. It's much more economical to spend a bit more up-front on a car in better condition. They are out there if you look, even if you have to drive a few hours to see it. I loked for over 6-months to find the best 240 I could find to restore. Look at condition of the electrical system as well, but don't worry about the clock, (90%+ original clocks don't work). Just so you know, the 2+2 is heavier and doesn't "feel" as sporty to drive as the stock 2 seater. If you've got small kids to carry around, the 2+2 is a good option that's still fun to drive. This may offend some, but in my opinion, if you want a true sports car, stick with a 2-seat version. YMMV

Nice photo journal. Been there, done that. Only part I found to be difficult was the rear sturt tower covers.

Here is a quote I like to use at work: "Only fix something if you are going to improve it." As long as it's a better idea, I'm all for it.

Verified that my fan clutch is toast. Plan to take it off and rebuild it in a couple weeks. While I was at it, I checked the engine temp vs. the gauge. I found the water temp in the radiator was about 175 F while the gauge reads about 2 needle widths past the center mark. May try to calibrate the reading adding a in-line resistor.

I run a Pertronix and would never go ack to points. Verify that all the wiring on you pertronix set-up is in good shape, and that there are no possible shorts to ground. When I was having ignition problems on my MG, I found that there was a worn spot on the wire, (insulation), that allowed the wire to contact the distributor case when the distributor plate rotated. This caused a similar symptom to what you describe.