Oiluj

Ok, here is a pic of the installed banner. Went with the "DATSUN" vs. the "240Z" logo. Took it to a local window tint place that charged me 30 bucks, (and I got what I paid for...). They didn't do that good a job and messed-up the tint between the S & T, so there's a defect. Not that bad, but enough to bug me. Still, it looks pretty good and I really like it! The strip is wider than the home-made, non-logo strip I put on my previous Z. While it's somewhat transparent, the lettering does cut down on vision in the top secton of the windshield. My initial impression is it feels a bit like I'm looking out a gunnery slit while driving. Still plenty of visibility, just different, and I'll get used to it. Thanks again Arne for making this happen!

That's a pretty "supersonic" red! Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Cool. 140 mph is about what I thought it would be, but so much depends on other factors, that I wasn't sure. It's got the stock tranny & diff. Final drive ratio is 1.0 w/ the stock 180 diff. _(I've got a 280Z 5-speed I need to rebuild and install that will raise the final drive ratio to 0.864). Thanks for the link. According to the calculator, it looks like 144 mph at 6300 rpm. With my 5 speed, it indicates 160 mph, but I doubt it will have enough power to reach that rpm in 5th. It found it climbs to 90 quite fast, which is quick enough for me...

Question for the site's pundits. The thread about tickets got me thinking. Just how fast is my non-stock Z? I'll never actually find out firsthand. Car specs: 1972 240Z Rebello 2.7 liter upgrade & stage3 cam: 212 hp @ 197 ft-lbs torque Stock 4 speed & diff. BRE style front & rear spoilers Lowered 1/2 " w/ eibach springs and tokico blues. All new wheel bearings & brakes, tranny & diff flushed and refilled with MT90. I expect it will do better than the stock 124 mph top speed. Question is, how much faster? 130? -135? - ?? Any racers / Z gurus willing to make an educated guess-timate?

Yep. unless it's on the track, I doubt I'll ever really know my car's top speed. These days, a quick blip to 90 and quickly back down to 70 on an empty freeway is about as much as I care to do.

Here's mine. In 1980 I was less than one year out of college. I had borrowed my parents 1973 Dodge Charger about 11 PM on highway 580. The car had a lot of play in the steering, resulting in my not keeping the car tracking very straight. Got pulled over for a DUI check. One of the two officers questioned me for a few minutes and asked me to step out of the car to do the physical tests. I was sober, tired and just wanted to go home. So when I got out I told the offcier in front of me: "How about I just do something to prove to you I'm sober?" He said OK. Having done some gymnastics in college, I performed a standing back-flip and said: "Now if I were drunk could I do that?" His gruff response was: "Just keep your car straight" and walked bact to his car. (The other officer busted-up laughing). Upon returning the car I told my Dad to get the car checked, and they ended up replacing a good portion of the steering parts. The Charger tracked great after that... My best friend, (in his 50's), while signing a rolling-stop citation, asked the officer if they were giving away free pens with each ticket. The cop joked back that with down economy, they had ended that program. Everybody chuckeled and drove off smiling, even my buddy!

Was showing-off the car to a friend yesterday. We zipped around a corner a bit fast, and I didin't see the police car sitting at the intersection about 100 yards away. I immediately told my passenger, "I think I'm about to get a ticket". The police car followed me, (right on my bumper), for about a block before letting me off-the-hook and turning off at the next corner. Have had a clean driving record for years, but this is only the second time in 40 years driving that I've "deserved" a ticket and not gotten one... Serves as a good reminder to drive "mellow" when not in the proper venue! :classic:

You can "try" glass polish..., but my guess iss that it's just time for a new windshield. Not much you can do about all those tiny pits. Better to spend the money on new glass than crash into somethng because you can't see!

I think you might find more modern PC driving games more satisfying. Pretty "old school" graphics, just dotted lights to indicate a curvy road. That said, it was my favorite game at a local pizza parlor "back-in-the-day".

Earthquakes are pretty common here. http://quake.usgs.gov/recenteqs/Maps/San_Francisco.htm

Something to try... Did you remove / reinstall the assembly? If so, here's what fixed the same problem for me. I found that the position of the interior door latch, (that handle that opens the door), can affect the operation of the door locks. If you loosen the screws holding this assembly, (inside botoom of door), it's position can be adjusted. If the assembly is too far forward, on the attached rod can't move back far enough and prevents the door lock from operating. When I moved my latch handle assembly back about 5/16", everything worked fine.

I'm below average given the post above, but it's a pretty eclectic list of vehicles. Bikes: 1980 Honda 200 Motorcycle (sold to by bigger bike) 1983 Honda 400 Motorcycle (given to nephew) Cars: 1955 Buick (had it 2-1/2 weeks, but did learn how to drive w/ a clutch) 1960 Chevy Nova (high school car) 1972 Ford Pinto (college car, in baby-sh*t yellow) 1973 240z (sold) 1981 Subaru GL Hatchback (Wife’s car, *great car!, would not die…) 1986 Toyota Corolla (replaced by 1971 240z) 1971 240z (hit & totaled while parked - arrgg!) 1986 Nissan Maxima. (temporary “beater” car bought at auction). 1995 Toyota Camry (sold / donated to family member) 1960 MGA (restored, sold after 17 years to by current Z) 1996 Toyota Camry V6 (totaled, hit by teenage “rice-racer” on highway) 1996 Lexus SC 300 (wife’s current car) 1997 Lexus ES 300 (current car) 1972 240z (restoration 90% complete). Boats: 1983 Chrysler 22 Sailboat (sold) 1978 Catalina 27 sailboat (sold) 1983 Seafarer 30 sailboat

I'll third, what's been said. I was on the path of rear disc conversion myself. After upgrading the fronts, I found that there's plenty of braking power. It's not really neccesary to put discs on the rear, except for the "cool" factor.

If you have a vice, a file, power drill, pliers and a hack saw, you can easlily make one if you can't find the bigger one.

When I installed the larger sway bar, I had some additional welds done on the frame rails in that area. I also added plates under the mounts that extend beyound the mount holes to distribute the additional load from the thicker sway bar. Maybe overkill, but I've read that big sway can damage the frame rails.

Looks bent to me, but I don't recall if mine was straight when I R&R'd it.

I agree with what others have said: Too far from stock and the wrong venue for a mod'd Z. I would expect he would have gotten more on e-Bay.

No more seat squeaks! My seat backs would squeak when driving with each change in road surface. A little detective work showed that under the load of my big posterior, the seat-back spring-arm was just slightly rubbing against the spring case. With normal play in the seat, it would squeak while driving. I took them apart, cleaned and re-lubed them with no success. Then I tried adding a brass shim to move the arm away from the case, while better, this did not completely solve the problem. Attached are pics of the final solution. I used some 0.020" thick teflon sheet to prevent the spring from rubbing on the housing. (Probably not neccesary, but I had it apart anyway, so why not). I made a spacer for the arm out of 1/16" teflon sheet for the spring-arm that prevents metal-to-metal contact. (This is what actually fixed the problem). It's mostly invisible, but now that I know it works, I plan to re-make spring arm piece from 1/16" thick black delrin, that won't show at all.

Looks like it's on an engine stand. Did you try turning the block upside-down and tapping it with a wooden hammer or rubber dead-blow hammer to let gravity get the tool out?

Nice! I have a laminated one, but this is great to have as a back-up!

I'd question it having a clogged catalytic converter (CAT), as 240z's don't have them, nor are they required for a 1972 vehicle in California.... Still, it doesn't look too bad if it's not a rust bucket. The price is good.

On my previous Z, (years ago), I glued thin strips of black felt along the locations where the plastic panels meet. Presto, no squeaks! My new repro panels don't squeak yet, but when they do, I use the same fix.

I agree, Z was the best sound, (and looked fast)! The early 911/912 (couldn't tell which) sounded like bolts rattling in a can... The 928 sounde pretty good too.

I've owned 3, 240z, MGA & 1953 Jeep. Driven 7 on the list.

Very Nice! Sweet Price!