Oiluj

Nope, that's to eliminate the exhaust smell in the cabin!

I've had both good & bad quality from the MSA interior kits & parts. I used the MSA seat kits and foam in mine, but I replaced the center panels with cloth. Fit is fine, but they don't seem to have quite as much "bucket" and side bolster curve as the originals. Slight difference in look, but still more than acceptable. I'm happy with them. I'm at work, so I don't have any pics to attach.

Well, I tried a couple ideas that didn't quite work, but haven'tgiven up yet. 1) using my copressor I was able to force a bit of air passed the shaft seal, but not nearly enough pressure. Ithink if I made a custom fitting that approach is workable. 2) also tried squirting "freeze-off" spray into the bottom hole and re-sealing, hoping the liquid gas would expand. Worked, but again not enough pressure... For the time being, I managed to install the aftermarket strut without enlarging the holes in the brackets. It's a very low priority project, but don't plan on giving-up just yet.

Very impressive workmanship, and better than cutting holes in "original" interior panels. (I have no issue with cutting holes in reprodcution panels). Normally I agree with anything Dave says, (he IS the S30 electrics demi-god), but personally, if I want good sound, I'll drive a my wife's older Lexus. This may be a less-than-popular opinion for some, I think big sound systems are better suited to older Honda civics than a classic Z. While I'm not a purist or collector, my perspective is that the Z is a "classic sports car", not a boom-box candidate. Not to mention, big speak box mods will probably hurt the value of the car. If you try to sell the car with that installed, my guess is that only teenagers & college students will be impressed. Even it you remove it, the mounting holes, resulting scuff marks on the interior surfaces, panels and vinyl will lower the value of the car. The rear speaker box sold by MSA provides reasonable sound, without all the problems mentioned, (and is well accepted by the Z community). Personally, I won't even consider buying a car with a boom-box sound system, pimpy wheels, "racer-boy" mods, etc, no matter how nice the car looks... In my experience, this is often evidence that more time & money has been spent on those items than on proper maintenance... For me, the stereo system / sound quality is secondary to the lovely sound of my 240Z's drivetrain. Stepping down off my soap box now... Just one guy's opinion. Feel free to slam me.

I agree. It only takes 10 minutes to roll a car outside the garage and take a few pics in sunlight... That he doesn't want to take it outside for photos sounds very fishy to me...

Darrell, That would be great! Thanks!

BrianL1987, No smog requirements in CA for cars 1975 and older. Who told you that you could not keep your 1972 Z?

Bleach won't hurt the HDPE washer tank. HDPE is also good with most solvents, so the brake cleaner, used in moderation should be OK as well. Checked and the throttle linkage ends do appear to be nylon. Don't use bleach on those.

That's what I did on the weak spots on mine where the sping clips tore the backing. Some penetrating epoxy and stiff vinyl made them more than strong enough where the clips mount.

Very Nice!

The tanks are HDPE, so you can safely try bleach, (but take off the pump first !!!), and rinse well later. That said, my guess is that the discoloration is aging / exposure to hydrocarbons and will probably not go away. The throttle linkage ends are some other plastic, probably a nylon, so bleaching is probably not a good idea.

Took a while to figure-out, but it was really simple... What was interesting was that when the door panel was off, the lock worked, but with the panel on, it didn't. I finally realized that with the chrome bezel in-place, it held the interior door handle out a bit. This put just a bit of tension on the latch linkage, preventing the lock from engaging. Turns out that when I re-assembled the door and installed the lock and handle mechanisms, I put the inside door latch too far forward. Moving it back about 3/16" inch resolved the problem. Not only that, the inside door handle is positioned a little better than before! One less item on the Datsun "to-do" list.

Got an aftermarket strut, but don't want to modify the mounts to make it work. So I drove the roll-pin out of the original strut base and removed the bottom cap. This exposed a gasketed phillips head screw that opens to the gas chamber. The strut piston seems to hold pressure, but how do I re-pressurize it? Any ideas?

Yep. My info is completely wrong. Not a single field is correct.

Mine arrived yesterday. Great packaging BTW! Now comes the hard part. Install the 240Z or Datsun one...

Very Nice! My 1st impression is that it seems a bit pricy. But considering the work involved and that it's not "mass produced", the price seems fair. Nice job!

Esprist, That is one fine looking engine bay! Mine's not bad, but I wish it looked as good as yours!

Congrats and welcome! This is the best board on the web, filled with helpful, knowledgeable people.

At the risk of sounding repetitive, don't like those black rubber antennas. I have an aftermarket automatic chrome antenna in mine I got at the local auto parts store.

The thinner spacers give me plenty of room for the air cleaner. The gaskets I made worked great as well. Turns out Bruce was right and I did need to shorten the studs a bit. Not a problem, as 8x1.25 x 50 mm studs are readily available. Plan to order a new set to pack into a plastic bag with my original spacers. Still need to tune the carbs and plan to do that this coming Friday.

For me. engine mods, suspension mods, even interior mods are OK, long as they are reversible to stock.

Arne, I have a cracked one and tried using a marine product, "creeping crack cure". While it did very slightly help minimize the cracks, it didn't work. I'm thinking this is a good candidate for a quality replacement insert piece. I don't have the means to make one, but maybe Dave can eventually reproduce a good copy. The plastic insert in the replica knob I have definitely does not look as good as my cracked original.

Bruce, Thanks for the post. I really appreciate someone with your experience replying to my post. Shows what a great site this is! Grinding-off the bleeder nipple was the first thing I tried, but it's still a pretty tight fit. In fact, I put some internal threads, (4-40), in the forward nipple and threaded the outside of a thin wall tube with some tygon tubing to use as a bleeding tool. Works pretty well. Before starting on this tack, I measured the length of the studs and clearance before I cut the insulator down, so it "shouldn't" interfere. We shall see if measured correctly... The gaskets are available and inexpensive, but cutting on the laser was more of a fun, "just cause I have the tool available", excerise. I'm very happy with the result. BTW, I have a set of spare carbs I'm thinking of sending you to be rebuilt later this Spring. Some jobs are better left to the pros... I need to clean them up a bit first and wait for my annual bonus in early April. (Assuming there's anything left, as my wife already has plans for a portion of it). Again, thanks for the input!

Attached is a pic of the gaskets I cut using the X-Y laser at work. . On the left is a pic of a cut sheet before removing the gaskets. The dark gasket was the original Nissan gasket. On the right is my thinner phenolic carb spacer block. . I left 1/8” inch uncut sections in the periphery of each gasket, and two on the inside diameter because I didn’t know if the material would curl when cutting. Turns out it wasn’t necessary. The separate gaskets were removed from the sheet using an X-Acto knife to cut the six, 1/8” long uncut areas. Difference in color is just different gasket stock. . I used a 75 watt laser, with a 0.005” dia beam. I quickly found it only took 4 watts of laser power to cleanly cut the 0.040” thick gasket material. The sheet on the left has burn marks on edges of the cuts because I started with 12 watts of laser power. . Plan to install the carbs this Friday. My only concern is that the thinner phenolic carb spacer lock may be more prone to cracking during installation or over time. Guess I’ll find out!

It's already there...