Oiluj

Come on People! Arne put a lot of effort to make this possible. If we don't get a few more commitments to buy, we won't make the minumum order. One of these would look retro-wonderful on your Z! Here's a link to Arne's e-mail. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35617&highlight=mylar

Logo, smogos.. I want one of those 240Z Targa prototypes!

It usually costs between $50 to $100 to re-key the locks, assuming they are not too worn.

Yeah, I figure that it will cost about $500 to do my 2 car garage. The links shown are not the low cost suppliers, but they have good pics.

It's not unusual for the locks to have been changed over the years and to no longer match.

The air coming out is normal, as it's pushing the diaphram. As Jon hinted at, you probably just pushed the reaction disc out of place. Check to see that it is still in-place. If not, you have to fish it out or remove the booster and shake it out so you can re-install it. Don't ask me how I know this...

Your garage floor looks great! Once the Z is done, I'm thinking of doing something with mine, but my wife says I have to do the finish plaster & paint first... I'm thinking of using a similar epoxy coat or perhaps a dimpled rubber sheet product like these: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/1%27+x+1%27+diamond+tread+floor+tiles%2C+case+of+20.do http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

Assuming your pedal goes all the way to the floor, when you push the pedal down, you will move the diaphram in the booster and force air through the check valve into the intake manifold. This will create the sound of air moving. (With the engine not running). I'm having the exact same problem of the pedal travelling all the way to the floor. The booster is good, new master cylinder, etc. I did some more research and now suspect that the brake switch valve may be the culprit. If your system was empty of brake fluid, when you only partially fill the lines and press the brake pedal, the shuttle valve in the brake switch can move all the way to one end. This will prevent proper bleeding / fluid flow to the rear brakes and can cause the loss of pedal pressure. I plan to check this on my car this weekend. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

Arne, I'm in for two of the "240Z" mylars. PM me with final price, name on the check and where to send it.

Jon, That is exactly what is happening. Funny thing is that both my new and old M/C's do it. I'll try returning my master cylinder to Napa and get a new one. Will update on progress later this weekend. Thanks for the input everybody!

Ronaldo & Adam, Thanks for the input. Yep, the M/C is plumbed correctly and that's the sequence I've used for bleeding the brakes. I'm kinda stumped at this point. I'm thinking there may be a blockage somewhere, perhaps at the rear check valve. Next step is to remove the rear check valve to see if that improves things. If that doesn't do it, I may move the system back towards the "stock" configuration in a step-wise fashion to determine where the problem lies. Brakes on these cars are not that complicated and it just shouldn't be this difficult to get things working...

Some progress, but no joy yet... I've read some posts and it sounds like I don't need the rear pressure check valve with the rear disc brakes. Is this the case? I removed the master vac, and used the best pushrod / reaction disc, re-assembled the larger unit and verified the master vac holds vacuum. I still have spongy pedal, but it now will stiffen if pumped repeatedly. Guess I must have some air in the system, and it appears to be in the rear brake circuit. So now I'm wondering if the rear check vakve is inhibiting getting the air out... Any additional thoughts?

Leave it off. It just hides potential problems. You are better off cleaning the balance of the undercoating off. Mine has undercoating and I wish it didn't. Spent a lot of time poking it to make certain there was no rust hiding underneath.

I'm with CSAA. Mine was in #3 condition when I first bought it and they agreed to $12K insured value without blinking. If I supply the receipts, and the car looks reasonably restored, they will insure it for a "stated value". In preliminary discussions, they seem to have no problem with $25 K. My previous car, a 1960 MGA was insured for $17K. When it was hit, (by another AAA member), they fixed it at a cost of $5K with no questions asked. They also paid her $1500 on the spot for a "fictional" neck pain, even though she did not want to go to the doctor, which pissed me off...

Arne, I'm still in for two, "240Z" tints, at up to $75 each.

Check out this document which explains what the terms mean and provides some additional information. http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/camterminology.pdf

The wikipedia sports car write-up was an interesting read. Thanks for that. I've driven an original Mini Cooper as well as the current incarnation. I consider them "fun" sport sedans that feel like a street legal go-cart.

First, I'm in my mid 50's, so my perspective may be a bit skewed... That said, I fully agree with the definition of a "sportscar" as being a two seat convertible or GT. I think the Corvette is certainly a sports car, but agree with the opinion that sport sedans are a different class. Back in the day, BMW 2002's and 510's were not considered sports cars, and I think that definition still applies. I say this with full knowledge that many sport sedans like the WRX and EVO will outperform many contempary "sports cars". Just my 2 cents... They don'r need a lot of HP, but they do need to handle well

Thanks for the input. The calipers are all oriented correctly, parallel to the dics with bleeders on top. I'm hoping that going back to the old master vac solves the problem. I'll keep you updated.

I can't get my brakes to work propery. I upgraded from stock 1972 brakes to maxima rear calipers, 1973 (larger) master vac, toyota 12S-8 front calipers. No other changes. Here's the problem, pedal goes to the floor with virtually no force. Observations: 1) Pumping brakes has no effect on pedal force. . 2) Get a "squishy" sound when pedal is pushed 3/4 travel to the floor. . 3) Rear pads are fully contacting discs. . 4) Front rotors turn easily, with maybe 0.010" clearance on both pads to rotor. . 5) No visible leakage anywhere. No decrease of fluid in master cylinder. . 6) There is no pedal force, but brakes do work when pedal is about 1/2 way down. . 7) Emergency brake works fine. What I've done: . 1) Bench bled M/C 3 times. No air present. . 2) Bled all four corners multiple times. No air present. . 3) Adjusted vac rod and pedal clevis length. (no effect). ' 4) Replaced master cylinder. (same symptoms). . 5) R & R'd master vac. Reaction disc out of place. Fixed that. (no effect). Tomorrow I may try switching back to the stock master vac to see if that has any effect. Other ideas?

Looks like it has rust on the door and quarters. I'd arrange to look at it first. Probably needs body repairs and a re-paint. Figure another $5,000 to $8,000 for professional repair. Interior looks pretty nice. Could pull the engine prior to paint and clean it up while the rest of the car is at the body shop.

Attached is a crude bitmap file I used in my signature avatar for just that purpose. Have Fun! zcar_bmp.bmp

"Datsunville" in San Mateo (general mechanical repairs) "Rebello Racing" in Antioch (engine specialists) "Z Car Garage" in San Jose

Thanks! It's a great read... Also, the last section on aligning the pad pins with the caliper piston may solve the problem I'm having with setting-up my brakes!

OK, I serarched previous treads but am still not clear… Will a larger bore 280ZX brake master cylinder bolt-up to a 1973 vacuum master vac unit without modification? Do I need to re-route brake lines? Thanks!