Oiluj

The cars are all metric, with exception of the seat belt bolts. There is a rear transmission mount on a bolt-in crossmember at the rear of the transmission. Best of luck with the restoration!

Nice! I thought of trying to keep the OEM air valve, but didn't think of switching-out the fan the way you did. Good idea!

Yep. They had to get the 5/8" and 3/4" for the fill neck to evaporation tank.from another store. Took all of 2 hours for them to get it to my local store. They also had 7/16" ID fuel hose, which was easier to install than 3/8" ID to replace the 10-11 mm hose.

Today I replaced all the vapor hoses. What a PITA! Though difficult, it's now complete and that's one more part of the project complete. I used all stock fuel/vapor hose from NAPA, and used aluminum tubing inside the hose to form the required curves and bends. I used some stock rubber pieces from McMaster-Carr I had laying around the garage as boots to seal two of the lines to the body. It would have been much easier if I had removed the fuel tank, but I just lowered it. Getting the hose on the fitting at the back of the tank was difficult. My arms are scraped and bruised from reaching between the rear valence lip and the lip on the tank. Next I need to figure out why the brakes don't seem to be working...

Wow! That looks Great! More pics please...

They are transparent, but reduce the amount of light. If you want to see how much, go to a local window tint place and look through the silvered mylar tint. I've been looking for one of these since the first day I bought my current Z. If it helps, get us to the 100 unit minimum order, I'll buy three.

Started my engine for the first time since the rebuild! It sounds really good and throttle response is much better! The valves are a bit noisy, but I’m told that’s a function of the performance cam. Still, I expect it will quiet down a little bit after break-in. Prior to start-up, I lubricated the cam area and “spun” the engine with the spark plugs out to distribute oil. It’s not yet all roses and rainbows though… It seems to have a pre-ignition problem and wants to keep running after turning-offf the ignition. When time permits, I need to check the timing, set the idle lower and may need to change-out the old mid-grade gas for premium. For the moment I can’t run her for extended periods of time to tune the engine. The exhaust system is installed by the PO is minimal and very loud. In fact, she sounds like a track car. Soon as she’s ready to drive, I need to get it to the muffler shop…

I'll have $24 K invested in mine when I'm done. As long as I'm employed, it would take more than that to get me to sell her. Guess it's probably "safe" for at least a few more years...

I'm in for 2 of them. One to install and one to set aside for a windshield replacement.

I'd like the following: 1) Datsun Front / Bob Sharp Racing Back - White

Next are the dash & ducts. The original heater ducts would not mate easily with the vintage air unit. Happlily, the heater ducts are a two-piece assemblies. I simply removed the end that attaches to the heater and the 2-1/2 ducting for supplied by Vintage Air happened to be a good slip-fit over the existing hoses. A little duct tape to assure an air-tight seal and those were good-to-go. The defroster connections and hoses are the same size as the stock Z parts, so no problem there. Attached is a pic of the ducting installed in the dash. I still need to fabricate an adaptor for the center vent, but that should be very easy. I’ll post a pich of that and the controls set-up in a couple weeks.

The vintage air unit was too long to fit the stock fresh air valve. As a result, I needed to make a “low profile” assembly to replace it. Attached is a pic of both old & new valves. I cobbled-together a sliding gate valve using stuff already in my garage and with a few items from the local Ace Hardware. It’s constructed from 1/8” acrylic sheet, 1/16” fiberglass sheet, 1/16” aluminum, epoxy, rivets and some self-adhesive, fuzzy pad material. The aluminum bellcrank allows the 2-1/2” diameter valve to open/close fully with only a 1” push/pull of the cable. It operates smoothly, doesn’t rattle and is actually more air-tight than the original flapper valve assembly. I admit it's not "pretty", but since it’s hidden up above and behind the glove box, it’s not visible. Attached is a picture of the new valve installed in the car, along with the Vintage Air remote heater valve. I used 3M exterior mounting tape to attach the unit under the dash. It’s rated for exterior automotive use and more than strong enough for this application. Also, you can see that I have installed elbows at the firewall on the heater hoses to allow a tight 90 degree turn without crimping the hose.

Vintage Air's Gen II Mini does not have a fresh air intake. I like the option for fresh air to be pumped through the fan into the cabin, so I did a bit of fabrication. * No original Datsun parts were damaged in this installation. First thing I needed was a fresh-air inlet into the squirrel cage fan. That was easy, just cut a hole and invalidate the warrantee on my evaporator. (see pic) I started by making a plenum to attach the hose, but found it worked just as well to insert the hose in the hole. (2nd pic).

This is nothing new, but might be helpful for someone who's never seen it. Had a washer slip and fall into a crevice and couldn't reach it and my magnet was too big to fish it out. So I use a thin, steel flathead screw as a magnetic extension for the magnet that could reach down into the crevice. In this case I ground off the sharp threads.threads to avoid scratching any paint.

Search the bad ebay seller threads...

The light flywheel will improve throttle response, but is worse for keeping a smooth idle if it's a street car. In my opinion, unless you are tracking the car or drag racing, it's not much of a benefit.

There is no circular nut. It's just stuck on. First, I'll echo DatsunZGuy, s comment. Give it a shot of penetrating lubricant front & back. Put something under the wheel to catth the drips. Next day, put the nut on the end of the shaft with some space between the wheel and the shaft end. Pull / work the wheel and at the same time have someone tap the back of the wheel with a piece of soft wood between the wheel and hammer. If that fails, then you do need a wheel puller. You can usually rent them at NAPA or most tool rental places. They have three arms with hooks and a central bolt that drives against the end of the steering wheel shaft. Measure the distance from the end of the shaft to the back of the wheel, as well as the wheel hub diameter to get the right size puller. Hope this helps.

As long as the tires don't hit the fenders, I think it's a matter of personal choice. Personally, I prefer the more "classic" look of 14" & 15" rims, and have 15" panasports on mine. However, it's quickly becoming difficult to find performance tires for wheels below 16". I fully expect to have to switch to 16" rims in a few years.

Pics, pics, pics!

I got the same banjo style lines with my mororsport kit.

To install the larger booster you will need to elongate the holes in the firewall. Not hard, but a bit of work.

Yeah, but I was really looking forward to driving her home. Guess my idea of 100% rust free isn't what others perceive...

Went to pick-up the new '72' Z today. Bad News. Car has evidence of rust, bubble under paint, on 3 of the quarters and bottom of driver's door. I don't want another major resto project, so no second 240Z. (at least not yet...).

Been fabricating my A/C lines and found no off-the-shelf ones of the required length. So I got a tubing expander and am making braze-on tube couplers. It took me 4 "practice" tries with extra tubing to get good joints, but I still ruined 1-1/2 tubes to make two good ones. I found that the "special for aluminum" flux did'nt help at all, in fact, it made it harder. I learned that the key is to make certain the surfaces to be joined are super clean. I used electrical contact cleaner, after fully abrading the surfaces with a S. Steel brush, (not carbon steel). The hard aluminum/silver solder flows fine, but the parts have to be very hot, just to the point where the heated surfaces start to look shiney. Now I need to make the big return line, but that's next week because I need to borrow a tubing bender capable of bending 5/8" OD soft aluminum tube. I'm mounting the compressor where the air pump used to be. To do this I hand fabricated adaptor mounts for the Sanden compressor out of 3/16" aluminum plate that mate-up to the existing air pump engine block bracket. It won't look like a fully professional job, but I don't think it will look that bad either. Pics to come when the under-hood work is complete.

Just drive it. Still enough power and a great car. Not really worth the effort to change it out or go to court.