Lazeum

If you haven't touched the cam sproket, your chain is defenitely way too loose. When you rebuild the chain mechanism, the gap between the tensioner and its housing should be 0mm. So yours is out of specs. Check the chain guides and see if they haven't slipped. The top bolt on the guide next to the tensionner is used to adjust tension also. The noise you've experienced could very well come from the dramatic angle the chain is having agaisnt the tensioner. Your cam timing is probably also way off (check notches on cam sproket) if it is only the chain which is creating such lash. If I were you, I would at least check at autostore if they haven't some front cover gaskets. Yours look like it could be reused but I would take the opportunity to change it "while I'm at it" and regarding front cover, I would be surprized if nobody from the state would have a spare one. I even found one in Europe (you could very well put some JB weld also but it is not such a clean solution)

That's the kind of word that makes my English "cute" to read (what ladies said ) "Illegible" in my month (actually keyboard!) meant "can register to the event".... Ohh well! For the real 24hrs, shoot me a PM or send a message to UK club, they're many Datsun fellows that go to the event. Speaking English won't make you lonely at Le Mans, there're almost more British people than Frenchies that go there (Le Mans Classic included)

one Z was part of the show 2 years ago. It was having a 2,4L with triple pushing around 240 crank HP (so quite decent for L24 but nothing crazy). It was competing with Porsche 936 (650 hp?) or BMW M1 (450 hp?) Bottom line, it was super slow on the track.

We could have but it was 140€ for 2 laps. I'd rather buy some parts for the Z ...or I could race the whole weekend since the Z is illegible for such event but I don't have 8000€ to register + tires + people to take of the car for the week A little bonus: The first car is having a special engine

before you remove the hood, make sure to mark with a pencil or a marker where it is located back to hinges. If you don't do it, you might have a hell of a time to align your hood back as it is today. Since it is counter intuitive to align, you will solve yourself some troubles.

You should! Those pics are not all from the club, I pick some up from different sources.

Some more pictures...

This is just a post to show you what you've missed being on the wrong side of the ocean (or in the wrong ocean ) We start to have more and more classic show in Europe such as SPA classic, Le Mans Classic & many classic historical race rebouts. This weekend, we had the race at Le Mans: apparently 120,000 visitors, over 8,000 club cars & over 400 race cars running at the track for real. We, as Datsun enthusiasts we had a spot right next to the track to park & show our cars. What's nice also regarding this show is you can access everywhere (paddocks, pit line, etc.), cars were everywhere. I get in a traffic jam with Porsche 917, Ford GT40 & Bugatti's - it does not happen so often There were so many cars I haven't seen everything in 3 days. French & British Datsun clubs + 350/370z clubs were gathered together, that was really nice! We were around 15 Z's + 1 Cedric + 1 Fairlady 2000. Nissan who had a spot got some support from us to source 2 cars for the show: one Gr.4 s30 & one c10 GTR. If you plan a trip to France one day, you should definitely shoot for LMC days and join the group!!! Here are some shots from the weekend taken from the French board!

I agree with the comment above. It seems you don't have any rubbing material left on your guide. The tension in the chain might not be ok resulting in loose chain hitting sometimes the cover. Since the crankshaft is turning in a clockwise motion, it is normal to have tight side on the right of the engine. Another indication could be to check notches on cam sproket. You would immediately see if the chain is still operating properly. I bet it does not. It also means your cam is not timed correctly anymore, you're most likely loosing power & torque. It's an important job to change the chain but it is really doable. You need to: - lift the front of the car - remove the hood but it is optional - remove the alternator belt (the alternator also would help but it not necessary) - flush the coolant - remove the radiator - remove the fan - remove the distributor & the oil pump - remove crankshaft pulley bolt (impact gun is best but you can have it with a large breaker bar) - remove the crankshaft damper/pulley (you need an extractor for this but you can do it with a piece of wood and a mallet) - remove all the bolts on the cover - remove the water pump - remove the cover then you have access to all the parts you need to take care of, then you put everything back together with new parts & gaskets. I would suggest in the process to inspect oil pump & water pump. Replace them if necessary. It is a 2 days job for someone who hasn't done it before if you take you're time and do it carefully.

What I do with mine is checking the shape of the rubber part. I then extract the rubber part itself from the new wiper and transfert it on the frame of my current worm out wiper blade. If you don't find the correct length, you can always trim a longer unit.

For information regarding discussions about choke size in triple carbs. I let you go over the topic in the following link. 40mm carbs with 36mm get almost no venturi effect whereas 45mm caarbs with 36mm venturi get some, making driveability better with 45mm.

For your info, it is everywhere in auto magazines here in France On TV, it was hard to watch it though, they did not care so much.

I understand your point of view regarding the Deltawing but I disagree. I think it is a brand new concept which looks like no other. They went outside the box with quite an extreme machine. Who would guess a machine with a track as wide as what they've done in the front could perform that well for a first trial? Who would have thought about putting 75% of the weight on the rear axle? They did not follow any rules of course but on the other hand, you'd notice they've tried to get low numbers instead of going all out with crazy numbers! It was by far the less powerful car of the race. It was also the lightest by far also due to the lack of rules. Bottom line, they have done an amazing piece of engineering with very innovative solutions that works. To see how it could perform against real race cars was actually very interesting. That's my point of view Regarding accidents & overtakers, if you look closely about the Toyota passing the Ferrari, you'd notice that the one making a mistake is the Ferrari which did not anticipate the gap of performance between the 2 cars and went into the Toyota. Toyota driver could have been safer & lose 4 seconds to avoid the crash but they were leading the race for a few minutes. The slower car should have been the one getting out of the way.

Some are coming with their Z from the north of GB. I think that's nearly 1000km (with the sea in between). You'll be lucky to find anything about the Classic race on TV. Best case scenario, we have a small review during the news. The best way to watch something is on Youtube with videos from members who will attend. 2 years ago, the Datsun club had a 5 minutes topic on National TV It is managed by a GB guy who's living in France, we all go to the same spot for camping, we have a dedicated area for BBQ with everyone close from the track + a spot to park our car in the middle of the track with other clubs. BTW, here's a nice video of the Deltawing after the crash. I like it, it shows what happened on the side of the track, far away from the spotlights.

The race was nice. The Deltawing was quite ok from a time stand point; within LMP2 times. That's too bad it did not finish the race or went further. It would have been interesting to see how it performs on a longer time period to check if it was a good solution on the long range regarding fuel consumption or tires. Regarding the Classic Le Mans race, it is in 3 weeks!!! We're going to gather French, UK, Dutch & Belgium clubs to have a dedicated Datsun area. We should be over 30 Datsuns + some extras at Nissan who has asked for some special race Z cars. It will be nice

The goal is to enjoy the process as well. I know how much an engine could cost to build right. I'm glad if you're happy. Now you'll see how good the builder is with the miles you'll be able to do with it One piece of advice, Change you first oil quick. I've run my engine 10 minutes first, flushed the oil & I removed the oil pan. I found a lot of metal chips in the pan afterwards. I've done 400 miles so far, I expect to redo the same operation for next oil change.

It looks great! I had to rebuild mine also with the same goals as yours in mind. I did it by myself at the end, it is a very long and precise process. You're talking about budget, I'm surprised to see Ross forged pistons, Nissan hardware also on the engine. Those are pricey items. I went with ITM cast pistons & good 8.8 zinc plated bolts everywhere ($15 for hardware), the money went in the head instead. I had a L28 10.5:1 cr, flat top pistons, N42 head and 274° cam by Schneider (MSA stage 2). The combo was full of fun but it was difficult to avoid ping

Good to hear. Let us know his feedback, I'll be curious to hear about it. For the airdam, I love it. It is a xenon unit in polyurethane. It looks good but it is vey soft. Some reinforcements are required to make it efficient. Some brake ducts could also be added to create some functions to the form.

Thinking again about your question and your plan, I believe the first move would be to talk to Dave R. about your project. I'm quite sure they know at Rebello what kind of distributor you should run as well as the corresponding timing curve you need. this will be setup on an engine dyno, it should be spot on with the correct carbs also tuned as they should. Bottom line, I would not do anything if you're going to deal with Rebello to get your engine Let the engine builder do the work with the correct tool.

Distributorless is indeed very nice (next upgrade if everything is ok with my newly rebuild engine, btw, no more EDIS 6 available on ebay so far ) The best benefit from the megajolt is to play with advance at every state of the engine: WOT but also mid range/low throttle, etc. as of today, I've got a Unilite + Mallory Hyfire 6AL CDI box. The setup is nice, it never failed on me and you can play with timing and curve to a certain extend. Rebello should also be able to tune it for you while they do the engine. But if I had to do it again with a distributor, I would chose an electronic dist. with a MSD 6AL-2 box that would allow me to play with timing via a PC. It seems much more friendly than Unilite to play with timing.

I would check how the fluid behaves in the master cylinder when you press the brake pedal. If the pedal goes to the floor, you might be able to see the fluid getting down and up in only one of the 2 tanks. It would help you to target which one is not working properly. To start filling the lines on mine, I open the bleed valve on one wheel and I pump on the brake pedal slowly. You should see fluid getting down & not coming back up. That would fill the line with air inside but at least it should go thru. With the buddy method, you should be to finish the job. Once, I wasn't able to have pressure on brake pedal, it was because the rear drums were not adjusted. It might be that simple to fix. To bleed brakes now, I ended up building a tool made with a flat piece of steel, a seal bought at the hardware store, a valve I got at auto store, 2 hooks and a chain. I then use a fuel hose & 2 plugs so I can pressurize the brake system by using the pressure from a tire. I don't go over 1 bar (14 psi) to avoid exploding the tank because of too high pressure. It's a very convenient tool & it works really well.

I agree with the statement above! Your machinist is bad, the size of the pistons is usually stamped on them, he did not even look at them carefully. I had good luck with www.clarksdiscount.com, Carl (the owner?) was awesome with me & he has everything for your engine (see where I live!)

I have tried Redline oil & Nissan oil. I end up going to Nissan dealer to get some oil supply for my cars. Mitsubishi is also carrying GL-4 trans oil for their car.

I would redo the engine. It will allow you to start with new pistons/rings also. Do it right now, you'll be glad in the long range & you won't have any second thoughts once everything will be over. This is the route I've taken for my engine

I've seen your topic, it looks really good. On my engine, it is a stock spray bar that looks to be in good shape. Regarding my case, I'm just saying damage came from the top end but I'm not sure the root cause is there also, it is most likely on the bottom end. Since it did not really know and damages were on head & bottom end, I've redone everything