Lazeum

It is not, they are super tight (i.e. very hard to move by hand) with 0 play while I can clearly see input pinion moving. tie rod ends are also new on my car. Old rack has been tested without tie rods on bench.

My Z has always got some king of loose steering (3-5 millimeters of free steering wheel rotational movement). I was able to reproduce the mechanical play with rack on bench to exclude any problem with other components from my car. I could turn pinion by few 1/10th of degrees while rack was not moving at all by using a gauge in any direction. So I've ordered an ultimate T3 rack hoping to get rid of this problem for good. Unfortunately, I end up with exact same problem as before 😞 Has any of you have experienced same problem with their rack? Should it be this way? (I guess not!) Have you been able to solve it?

That's the thread we're talking about on hbz Here are the changes we've made to quiet things down. The rockers were not sitting straight on top of the lash pads. This solution could work obviously if you don't have stock valvetrain components. Before: During regrind with a dremel tool: After polishing operation, still done with dremel tool: Valve train is now quiet on my engine. Some small lash pad adjustments had to be made after the work. After 1000mi. every is now steady.

Perfect! I'll keep in touch with him then.

I feel for you. You've got all the cold we did not get in Europe this year. Not even one snow flake to be seen this year. I had to grind ice from my windshield maybe 3 times this year only in the morning. I've also been driving my Z anytime with no downtime due to salt on roads since there was no freezing temps. Best part is we're having lunch & diner outside just wearing shirts since temps are around 75°F with blue sky & sun. I've got new winter tires on my DD, they are badly worn out whereas they should last 3-4 winters. High temps killed them

Hi Andreas, I'll check it out with David or Sean (not sure who's your contact afterall). Thanks for your effort! It seems to be great work.

I'm in contact with the person in France, we're all part of the same club I'll keep an eye on your progress. Keep up the good work!

Looks great! If you're going to sell some, you can put me on the list! I've never disassembled the tacho. Do you believe there's a way to change the odometer also to fit kph instead of mph? have you seen how it works? Not a big issue but it could be very cool to get a 100% kph conversion.

I'm running distributorless system so I'm out of the picture here but I'm able to control engine load advance with TPS. At very low load state at steady speed (=max vacuum), my engine is happy with 48°. At 130kph (80mph), I really have to feather the gas pedal to keep the car steady whereas before it would need way more gas pedal travel. So to the very post, I can say: Yes, you can increase fuel economy by controlling vacuum advance (by 20 to 30%) When fuel mix is low (low load, low throttle angle), cylinders are not full, gas mix is much slower to burn than at WOT. 2 options exist to get good burn then: you ignite the mix exactly when needed - not possible without load advance control - or you increase the volume of fuel mix. With "poor" (= no load/vacuum control) timing management, you can only use the 2nd solution which is the less efficient. By controlling load advance, you also improve acceleration/transition. Engine is running in a way more efficient state, transition can be done with efficient mix ("easily" done with DCOE by playing with idle jets) but also efficient advance (going in my case from 48° to 34°). Car is much more responsive as it has ever been when I was running Unilite dizzy without any load control. here's a very good article about fuel economy, advance load control & DCOE

I've got a Mallory pump 4070LP, it is quiet (you can barely hear it at idle) but I've never been able to get more than 2psi out of it for some reason no matter what I was doing to get higher pressure. Despite low pressure, flow was good.

Are the throttle plate closed completely when you're at idle? Is the linkage ok and free to move within their entire range? Timing at idle seems very low to me. I'm running 20° with 9.5:1 CR, Rebello 276 cam and same 40DCOE-18. That would change total timing (so be careful with knock at high engine load) but you should try to increase advance at idle with engine running and see if rpm rise. Best timing at idle would be when rpm are the highest. You've got a big overlap cam, you definitely need higher timing. Have you checked for leaks? It could also lead to some problem.

Welcome here! I used to live in Troy/Birmingham MI. It took me 4 years to find a good condidate locally. At the end, it was all worth it but you might want to look also elsewere for a proper car. Now, that I have one, it brings me a smile each time I'm driving it (except when it let me down from time to time on the side of the road... that was before)

If the fitting is good, I could also be interested. Being part of French forum, where more and more Z are imported from the Z, I could foresee some interest.

The 1750 would be also on my list. I'm trying to find a different solution than yours: get some space and get te Z AND the Alfa Dreaming is not forbidden, it gives me a goal for the future. Engine and chassis are awesome apparently and very fun to drive. Next on my list is an Alpine A110 1600s, that's when I would win the lottery! I had the chance to drive one for 25 minutes, it was incredible!

Look for REDDAT on the forums (here, hybridz, zcar, etc.) and on the web and you'll see what people think about him. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/44910-ebay-user-reddat-houston.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/35475-does-anyone-have-reddats-phone.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/13557-beware-george-g-robbins-aka-reddat.html Heads up about ebay seller reddat & his "NOS" parts on ebay - General Discussion - Ratsun Forums

Welcome and definitely spend some good time reading & learning about Z's. There's tons of knowledge here so you can take a wise decision and get a good car to start with. As an old car, it will never be perfect but Z's are very good candidate to learn how to work on cars, they are very easy to work on. Despite being a mechanical engineer with automotive knowledge, I was not so comfortable with the car at first but in 5 years, I've restored almost everything, including engine, on my car except body; which was in perfect shape when I acquired the car) You're also on the good side of the ocean (actually on the other side of the planet according to me) to get cheap parts to make a good car. Take advantage of it for sure! I envy you for that! Since you're French, do not hesitate also to join the French community on datsun-france , we'll be glad to help For the record, it took me 4 years while I was in Detroit to find a good Z. It was more expensive than most of the Z I could have seen over the years but the extra money spent saved me a lot of time, troubles and money in the long range. The car is now a blast to drive on countryside roads around Paris/Versailles.

Your best tool for this job would be to get the following manual. Everything is detailed inside. It is not difficult but you have to take your time, get the right tools and don't forget anything. Main issue while changing head is getting the chain loose and release chain tensioner. You then have to manage to put it back on (if you know how to do it) or remove front cover which will add some extra hours of work.

My alternator/fan belt was undersized vs. my pulleys. My engine was not stock, as a result, crank pulley needed a 10mm wide belt while alternator & fan needed 13mm. 10mm belt fit but it hit the bottom of the groove instead of contacting the pulleys on the sides. As a result, it was from time to time slipping. I've changed damper with a later unit with 13mm wide which allows me to use now 13mm belt, it does not slip anymore.

Some bushings are more critical than others regarding ride and confort. For steering feel, T/C rod busings, steering coupler and rack bushings are the most important. Other bushings are mainly for confort and car behavior at the limit. If I were to do a mix of poly and rubber, I would do front LCA & rear LCA in rubber and keep T/C rod & steering bushings in poly. If I would be smart, I would either get T/C rod bushings in rubber to be safe since we all know potential problem with poly (yet to be demonstrated to me) or go with ball joint instead of bushings at T/C rods (such as T3 front LCA)

I would be interested as well if we could find one I think your best bet would be to find a speedometer in km/h in Europe. One alternative that would be cool is to just replace the "front cover" where the numbers are from Mph to km/h. It should be a 10€ plastic sheet part. You could also look for unworking speedometer to recycle the "front cover"

I've shipped my Z from Baltimore to France when I moved back to Europe. Stereo, cover filter, Original Datsun key ring were gone on my Z, luckily, it was the only issue found. Nothing too dramatic. Some have been less lucky: doors stolen from the car, bumpers, etc. Cars are left alone in a ship for a full month, things can happen. I have been working in a port as well for some days, I've seen how people manage cars when they unload them from the ship: high revs when engine is cold, they're pushing the engine cold on the car park to "test" the car. I've seen it done with an original Shelby GT350

I'm glad to read that With 0 load or very little (like feathering the throttle pedal), you should have no knock. Most likely some noise has triggered the sensor: valves, exhaust leak, etc. A friend of mine had his knock sensor going crazy, it lasted months before he found the issue: he forgot a screwdriver that got stuck in between motor and gearbox To set timing at idle, I check while engine is running the timing to get max idle RPM. this would be your idle timing. Regarding max timing, you could try to get mid range timing (at 3000rpm) low and get max timing (with 8000rpm setting) at little higher. You will need to try it out. Not sure it is the right time if you're breaking in the engine for now.

Head bolt torque is never related to gasket. It is always related to bolt specs. I would get new head bolts, either from Nissan or from ARP. It's a cheap insurance for the future. ARP set is around $120. Stock units are probably cheaper. If stock bolts are used, follow what's on FSM, if ARP's, follow their directions with their lube. The part in the oil gallery is called the oil restrictor. You have a second one at the front of the engine, close to the front cover to feed the chain and the tensioner. For your information, the restrictor between cyl #3 & #4 is the one we could increase to raise oil flow for the cam in racing or hightly tuned applications. I wouldn't mess with it, I'm just saying

My P79 head complete with head cover was recorded at 70 lbs. You can do it on your own but make sure you protect very well the fender in case you have an issue during transfer. If you can have somebody helping you, it would be easier for sure but it is far from being impossible to do by yourself.

It looks already great, even with the "not so ok" pictures. Good job. I need to tackle such job as well. I know how now, thanks!