Lazeum

My Unilite could have been adjusted the same way: 2 plates with notches where you can insert some keys/shims. When you tighten screws to lock everything, most of the time, plates move back to another position, not so easy... With this system, you should find best timing at idle, try to get max advance where you want. Adjust dizzy afterwards to get max power & readjust timing offset to get back to ideal timing at idle. I have a excel file with all the curves overlaid to each other if you'd like. It was an attempt to get things better.

I used to fight with my dizzy, that was before It was a unilite Mallory dizzy also. To set it up, I was following 3 steps: - idle: start the engine (hot) with loose dizzy. I was turning it by hand until I reach max rpm at idle. I was checking my timing only after. - Total advance: I had a guess of how much timing I needed (34° roughly). Since I knew what was my timing at idle & my springs combo inside dizzy, I could adjust mechanical advance from dizzy. I have the shim set from Mallory but you can also use drill bits & some maths to set your dizzy. - Advance progression: It was a trial & error process until I can find something that run ok. I ended up with 2 orange springs. BUT.... I had issues to check timing. Spark plug wires did not go well with timing light so everything was a guess (timing light was telling me that timing at idle was 60° & 80° or so at high rpm...) Since, I've removed everything & I've changed ignition management with Megajolt/EDIS system. Car has never run that good since then. My engine combo is different than yours so you cannot use my timing map. I'm running F54/P79 with major head work & 9.5:1 comp ratio Street tight lash cam from Rebello. They don't share cam diagram but it is much more aggressive than Schneider Stg II cam I was running before, with a lot of overlap, 0.490" lift & asymmetrical profile. I have to run a lot of timing at idle.

It's me who made a post about it. Very annoying and it still does it! What I've got is a message from my browser telling me server has closed the connection.

I've purchased some HybridZ apparels from him before it got kicked out. He's legit but he got lost with timing. It took some time to get served but everything was finally shipped as expected. Quality was good.

I've rebuilt my engine last year and looking at your post, it makes me feel jealous whereas I'm not yet done with break-in. I loved working on my engine. Best moment: to start your own freshly rebuilt engine. Everything looks great! I wish I could see and hear what a short stroke engine, high bore could do! and Jeff, The Z (your Z) is almost too fast for open roads now and it did not rev it past 5000rpm yet!

What is the color of your oil sender? I'm asking it because I had no oil pressure at idle (whereas my engine was fully rebuilt). I've swapped the golden sender with my previous unit: black. Oil pressure at idle became ok at 1/3 of the oil range and above 1/2 when driving it. It was just a bad sender, new units in gold color are not as good as original one which were black (to be sourced at Nissan's)

I confirm, 22mm is the wrench size you need for drain plug. To turn the engine, you can also lift one rear wheel, put your car in 5th gear and turn the wheel. This is what service manual advices. Otherwise, 27mm is the right size for crank pulley bolt.

no idea, but I assume trigger will be contact in dizzy. This is just a gess but I don't see any other alternative. To get 10° of advance, you can also delay spark by 350°...?

MSD did a neat box to get an alternative to Mallory Unilite dizzy. They've made a 6AL-2 box where you can setup your timing curve with a computer. Then, you have to lock your dizzy advance mechanism. MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2 As far as I'm concerned, I've moved to Megajolt + EDIS since failure of my box. My Unilite dizzy still works fine though.

It happened to me also, luckily, I was 100 yds away from my house (after a 300 mi trip!) To check the optical trigger inside the dizzy, make sure to use the cap to block the beam. I've tried with a credit card and the signal went thru at first leading me to a wrong root cause analysis. I had a Mallory Hyfire 6AL box. This is what has fried on my setup. I found out later that Coil resistance is a major item to check. However, if you run only a dizzy with no additional box, coil with 1.5Ohm should be fine.

Ok, I did not understand for oil filter. Basically, in France, we either share spare parts, order on MSA or other webshops (rockauto mostly). We have deal with them as a club. We also have people doing some aftermarket parts: strut bars, roll cage, Fiberglass parts, etc.

When I've brought back the Z with me from the US, I had to modify the way lights were working also on mine. I've purchased some Hella H4 headlight bulbs with extra position lights inside them. The size for headlights are very standard (7" ?) , most likely Beetle, Porsche 911, Renault 8, MG's etc have the same unit. The Hella unit is almost flat whereas stock unit is not; very subtle difference but there's one. PN for Hella unit was 1A6 002 395-071 but it was designed for LHD vehicle, so pn might be different in your case. Then, I've hacked the harness to bring power from the sidelights to the position lights inside the housing. It is a matter of splicing one cable from side light, hooking a new one up to the new bulb from the cut cable. You also have to route a ground signal. I took it straight from road lights inside the bulb where everything is sealed (= no corrosion possible); I've soldered a new wire & added a spade female connector that hooks up to bulb connectors. Last one, for oil filter, don't go to Nissan, go to any automotive parts store. You can also go online, get one reference and get the entire list of compatible products. Here's what I have when I look for 280zx filters. I like Mann Filter.

I had the MSA "turbo" exhaust with Dynamax muffler. The car was loud, ground clearance was bad (it could be due to poor installation - every pipe was welded to the other instead of being connected. I've redone the entire exhaust and I've installed a homemade glasspack in the transmission tunnel. Car is still very loud at WOT but much quieter on cruise & idle.

It is made to get a good alignment between head & block. If you don't use them, head bolts will insure this purpose. You will increase stack up on your build. Engine will work but cam sprocket might not be perfectly aligned, combustion chambers will not be exactly in front of pistons, etc. Would 1mm / 0.040" matter? No idea but it is a 1$ piece to source, I would not mess with such parts & risk engine premature wear/failure.

Grower is the technical name we use (not so common, though) in France for split washer.

some info on my build if that could help some. Madkaw, you were part of it.

I've measured stock head gasket (Ishino) at 1.00mm (0.039") compressed, same value for Felpro gasket.

0.050 from the block is a lot! I've redone my f54/p79 engine with flat tops last year. It was difficult to find the correct head gasket. It was easier for me to machine pistons to get proper quench distance. 0.050" is a lot of material to be removed though. Make sure you've got enough material on your pistons. As Madkaw is saying, make sure front cover end up flush with the block milled.

A friend is running a 3.2L combo from Rebello with E31 head. The combustion chambers look quite normal and he's pushing 320hp at the crank on Rebello dyno. It demonstrates somehow the head is capable.

Using head gasket thickness as a variable for compression ratio is a bad idea. you will alter the quench if any. When I've rebuilt my engine last year, I've faced the same exact situation. I've measured everything so many times to get it right... I ended up disassembling everything to get the pistons machined to match proper clearance. Engine has been designed with Braap from HybridZ & Rebello. I'm running a CR 9.0 with a P79 & a street Rebello cam. The engine is very nice! A lot of torque from 3000rpm up to 5000rpm. I haven't been able to go above efficiently; I was breaking the engine in + chokes in my DCOE's are too small (32mm) => the link to the thread on hbz

I've removed my MSA kit as well after I've tried everything to make them work. I had to slam the door to close it. It was painful & frustrating. I was almost anxious to open the doors since I did not know if something would fail while closing them. So I went to the junk yard, look for cars with bigger doors than the Z & with maximun one 90° bend. I ended up finding a Renault Twingo here in France that was quite a match. What I'm saying is Kia sportage works but I'm sure, they're plenty other options to investigate. Mine was straight with no bend so I cut the gasket with 45° angle. Junction is made at the top of the door where there's a 90° to fill. Install is cleaner since it is clamped instead of being glued, extruded hollow shape is also much softer to compress. Nobody will notice the difference between stock and new gasket. Actually it looks better and it is 100% sealed. here's the difference.

Steve, you're absolutely right for copper but I've chosen copper for availability & look (If I can say so, since I don't see tubes anymore once installed) George, nothing fancy here I just had the opportunity to use big machines for free. I had fun doing my own. knowing metal properties & process was my job (mechanical Eng. in automotive)

I did my own It required a galvanized steel sheet, 0.040" thick, a copper tube, 3 long M5 or M6 bolts - I don't remember. What we are trying to prevent is not heat from convection but energy from radiation. So I've chosen steel instead of aluminum since steel is having a much smaller heat transfer coefficient. I did a template with cardboard while intake & carbs were off the car. I've added a extra lip at the end to make the part stiffer; I was afraid about resonance & noise. Here's a 3D view In order to make the part, I've used a power shear & a bender. It helps to make a clean job but everybody can do it with garage tools. From the 3D picture above, you can see I've deviated from the original design for bolt holes against intake. Then, this is how it looks installed on carbs. They were some free threaded holes on carbs I've used. I've put thread-lock on every bolts. Additionally, I've added some aluminum tape on shield to dampen vibrations - it is not shown on pictures. I've driven the car this way, no noise, no vapor lock. The only drawback is I can see now that my carbs are leaking a little after each use. btw => total cost: 30€ with tons of left over material to run at least 4 extra pieces.

The progression holes are most likely different, don't run those together. I would hunt for a 3rd DCOE 18, it shouldn't be too hard to source. We are many with this type of DCOE.

Check the link for more info if you need something else. Regarding your setup, I assume your engine is stock. Every change that could affect VE would affect carbs settings so it is important to know. If your engine is stock, 36mm venturi are on the large side of the scope. I'm on the other side: running fully built L28 engine with 32mm chokes on 40DCOE. I'm out-running the carbs after 5000rpm. I need to switch to at least 34mm to be good.