Lazeum

For timing, we can't really help without also knowing the cam spec. I could assume you've got the stock unit with your EFI system. For your reference, I was having Flat top & N42 head with MSA stage 2 cam (Schneider 274/274). I had to run 28-29° TOTAL advance Max without detonating. I have DCOE carbs that needed some initial advance too; around 10-15° with no vacuum adv. You have to make sure you can setup properly your timing then With stock cam it could be even worse but injection might make things less difficult than carb setup.

I'm running at Mallory Unilite dizzy with Mallory Hyfire 6AL CDI box. It works well but it is known to be sensitive to high voltage but so far it works good. I would not recommand this setup if I had to do it again. Instead I would recommand either to convert your current dizzy to remove point with optical or hall sensor (pertronix unit seems to do that well), I would lock advance on dizzy and I'll get an MSD AL6-2 to manage the ignition. I don't know however how this setup can handle advance with vacuum (probably it does and you'lll lose torque & efficience at low/mid throttle) Next optimal option would be to go distributorless with XDI ($$$$) or Megajolt but it is more involving and you lose the classic look of a dizzy.

I have done the entire list of tasks recently minus exhaust & brake lines. I like the way Leon has sorted the tasks. I would add that it depends of the tools you would have in hands & how rusted the car is as Leon said (broken rusted bolts are no fun...). As far as I'm concerned, I've used 25t press, benzene/O2 torch, impact gun, etc. with those kind of tools, job is fun. Removed those tools, replace the press with a Hammer, regular tool and you're up for a very frustrating job.

I have lift my engine by using the oil pan (I did it because anyway, engine is in need for a rebuild) I haven't damaged anything by doing so but I've used a large piece of wood to spread the load evenly. So it is doable but if I had to do it again, not sure I would

you're welcome

I have 40mm long or so air horns under the filters. so yes, you can fit some. I try to get a picture to show you the horns, this is the only one found from my old setup.

To me, what you've experienced look like something different than cam sproket timing. I would start checking idle timing, sounds like you don't have enough advance at idle. What about the notch inside the sproket, does it align with the one from the cam?

I had a leak before, it was located apparently from the same area as yours. I've checked everything at the time and found it was coming from the window on the front of the engine on the head. I was missing a gasket. Oil was flowing along the engine until reaching the floor much further away... To solve it, it was a matter of removing 3 bolts, put some liquid gasket and install back everything. Much easier than a trans to remove I would wipe the engine & check where oil come from, it should be easier to do on a Z than any other car with the room available around the L-engine.

I'm refreshing my front suspension currently This is what I've done this weekend. Next step is reassembly with poly bushings, clean up of the under hood prior to reassemble my motor which is currently under re-construction.

I'm part of the Datsun club in France, we usually spend the money into shows. Last year was getting a super nice spot to park our Z's at 50yds of the track for Le Mans Classic race. Rest of the money was spent for BBQ, Free drinks, etc for members. We also do regular shows - money goes into the walls for the stand, carpets, lights, etc.

Hi, I would advice to be careful about car to be sold overseas. I'm sure also if he's willing to go that route & look serious, he has been involved in some ways with Z clubs somewhere. I'm a mod on the French board, there're a lot of swiss people there. The buyer might be part of them, I can find info maybe about him. If you have his first name, that would help (last name will not). Last advice, cashier check are NOT SAFE. You also have to know that you'll get money in your account BEFORE the bank can make sure it's real. Lead time is about 2 weeks to clear the check. So no matter what, plan for a period of time between money transfer and car shipment if you decide to trust the buyer. The usual scam from Africa asks you to cash out a cashier check (fake obviously), the buyer alert you the check was too big but he has no other choice and will ask you to send back some of the money thru Western Union. Since the money is in your account, you go for it. One week after the bank remove the money from your account because the cashier check was fake but the money you've sent thru Western Union was real (and gone )

You can also get a leather sheet on ebay for cheap. Cut it based on previous old & used boot & redo one. I've done it on my parking brake boot, it looks great & very soft. It's a little thicker than stock vinyl so you might have to play with clips to make it fit.

Welcome European fellow In your research, you could also go the French Z club. There's a lot of Swiss & Belgium people as well that speak German. Some members import "rust free" Z (= almost since a Z is very rarely free of rust) from the US. We've also got some parts supplies. People do speak English as well

I'm working in car steering system, this is the tool we are using on inner tie rods It might damage your tie rods (scratches on ball joint housing) though so be careful

I do have some in 15x7 with ET04 on my lowered 240z. I have 225/50-15 G-sport BFGoodridge tires. They fit. I only have 1/2" on each side of the tire of clearance between strut on one side and fender on the other... No problem with center cap either

I like the idea! All that would be sweet but when I came back to Europe with my Z, Customs did not allow me to have anything in my car except the spare wheel It was with a Roll In / Roll out solution. In a container, it might be a different story. Anyway, I had to ship my parts & the rest of my stuffs in different boxes (so it is doable but not in the car)

I'll have to redo mine this winter. I'm going to go with galvanized solutions. A lot of people can actually do it. Keysmith for instance can help you. They galvanised the doors of my parents house (3m height, 4m wide), so some "small" suspension parts should not be a problem. Worst case scenario, I've found some cold galvanised solution (92% Zn + Epoxy). I'll give it a try. You can then paint it the way you want. It's a cathodic protection. Even if you get some scratches on your protection, metal won't rust since oxydation will occur with Zinc instead of steel. That's what we put today on suspension car parts (bolts, Tie rods, collars, etc.)

Hello Andrzej, There're few Z cars in Europe. We do have some in France that could be in good shape (there're 2 for sale now at 10k€ & 14.5k€). As far as price goes, they are quite expensive if you can find one in good shape. Best deal would be to find a rust free one in the US and ship it (but how to check for rust if you stay in EU??) The one Carl is showing is super nice but you might get bored... It looks almost too good to work on it! :stupid: Good luck with your project. I'm spending a lot of time in Poland (Tychy & Gliwice), my polish collegues start to know what a Z is since I display it with the beam before each meeting

I would also check the condition of the spark plugs. Mine were fouled at some point, I've changed them, the car started right on.

I guess we would have the same, with assymetrical profile I was however not able to get a lot of data from the overall shape of the cam...

What kind of job has been made on the head finally? Do you have some pictures you can share? What cam is it? I have a Rebello cam in my port/polished p79 head from Rusch Motorsports. I love it!!!

It didn't hit my mind when I've read "Brit". Reading it quite fast, I though it was a first name :stupid:

For your info, here in Europe, we've done a group buy: we gave a Nismo header to an exhaust shop in UK. He has worked for many weeks prior to propose to the group a Nismo replica version. Full exhaust runs 1200€ (1500$), if you're interested you should give a look at zclub.net. shipping though might kill the deal... I've got a MSA 6-2-1 that is good enough for me, Ive got no complain at all so I'll keep it. so I'm not part of the deal

I would do what you've just said but I would go with flat top pistons and different head. Since you're going to do all the work, I'd choose a P90 head that's got closed chamber with better knock threshold over the N42. I would also use a smaller head gasket to keep the quench effective with the setup. I wouldn't use metal head gasket either. I'd rather see the gasket blowing than my new custom head being wrapped in case of failure somewhere. Compare to what you're going to pay already, a used P90 should not be that much more money. I have a F54 block with flat tops, P79 head made by Rusch Motorsports. Torque & Power are very nice compared to my previous combo with same block & stock N42 head. Comp ratio was too high, timing had to be retarded by a lot to make the engine running with no detonation. Cams were different though so that would also explain power differences...

I was thinking about doing it also on my MSA air dam. Not that I really need it but also to get some projects going and to make those "holes" functional. I was thinking about doing some ducts with fiberglass. Make a mold out of expandable foam you can shape yourself and then get 2 pieces made. Fixing them with pop rivets as Preith was suggesting. Next step would be to find out how to fix them in front of the brakes to make them efficient without interfering with wheels