warcmalla

Madkaw. Google is telling me your email is not valid.

I have been running a 123 ignition for a few months now and my tach works normally with a bosch red coil and no ballast resistor.

It is a cap. I sent him a message asking and this is what he replied, "Yes .. When I did the car.. There was no one re doing them now Motorsports will re do a dash.. I have one .. Candidly it didn't look as good as my cap .. So I didn't change.. I believe mine was one of the first they did.. Heard they have gotten better nowMy cap is installed So well to realize it is a cap you have to feel the bottom to find the seam" For the amount of money he is asking I would want a perfect dash.

I'm using the the offset side as the inlet. I fiddled around with it both ways and the offset side seemed to fit the best. I just rotated the muffler a little and it doesn't stick down that much. Either way the last bend is only a finger width from the tire. After just now crawling around underneath it I also realized that the r200 is getting in the way of the pipe and preventing it from moving away from the tire. I ground the little edge off the diff that was contacting the pipe and gained a minute amount of clearance. Now it's closer to a half inch away, but it is still touching or darn close to the differential.

I just installed this exhaust system into my z yesterday. Added the 6 to 1 ceramic coated header and premium exhaust all at once. Header install was a quick task since I just had my intake and exhaust off recently so I didn't have to fight any stuck fasteners. The pipe portion of the installation also went smoothly with minimal wrestling of the hangers. A couple things that trouble me with the installation are the clearances in two spots. Under the differential is very tight and may contact under vibration and the clearance between the last bend going into the muffler is quite close to the rear tire. I'm running 16x8" +10 offset rims with 225s so I'm sure that is why I have such a tight clearance. I plan on crawling under there again to see if I can wiggle it over a little bit more, but ultimately I'm thinking that I will have to take it to a exhaust shop and have them tweak it a little. I might have 3/8" between the tire and exhaust pipe.

I recently replaced all the half shaft u-joints on my 73. When I went looking for parts my regular store only had a pair so I went to Napa to get the other two. The the pair that i got from Napa (sorry forget the brand) upon installation the metal on the inside of the groove on the cup crumbled like a cracker. You could almost chip it off with your finger nail. When I compared the two different brands side by side the pair that were falling apart had a much thinner strip of metal interior to the clip. This coupled with what appeared to me to be poor casting resulted in them being total crap. I took them back to napa and got my money back. I've never had a u-joint crumble like these and I wasn't being particularly harsh beating on them either. Your second picture looks just like mine.

I just watched <a href=http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0480687/>Hall Pass</a> last night. It was marginally entertaining, but there wasn't much to choose from at the local Kiosk that I hadn't already viewed. Near the end when Owen Wilson is leaving a party to tend to an injured wife, a DJ in the movie who is out for revenge hops into a what looks like a blue '72 240z with white interior. You don't quite see the whole car, but enough obviously. The car is only seen for a few seconds and that's it.

My z is later than yours so I would expect them to be similar. On mine the turn signal flasher unit is on the driver side under the dash and the hazard relay on the passenger side. If I remember correctly mine was attached with a single screw through the kick panel. There was a metal flasher unit plugged into a brown plastic thing (I think that's what made noise) and both of those were attached by the one screw. I replaced the whole assembly with an electronic flasher and my turn signals flash much more positively. I replaced mine when my turn signals would light but not flash. When you say they are not working does that mean they don't come on or they don't flash? Hopefully it is just the flasher if not I'd start checking my turn signal sockets for corrosion and possibly take the turn signal switch apart. Both of which I had to do at some point to get mine bright and consistent.

I have 16x8 +10 wheels with 225s. Just a few millimeters between tire and spring perch. Unless you have coil-overs I think you will rub spring perch. Maybe my tires are just really fat for their size, but I doubt 245s would have fit on my car without spacers and fender rolling.

I ran into a guy with a convertible z at my Dad's gas station a year or two back. He said he was from Bellevue, WA if I remember correctly. He had his z shipped off brand new to have it converted. I don't recall where he had the work done. I was thinking Illinois for some reason. Although this is not a good picture it appears to have a similar trunk/luggage rack. Hard to see it, but it has an inserted panel under the rack like the car above.

ChaCha, I have the setup you just ordered and run 225s. Unless you have adjustable coil-overs you will need a 5mm spacer up front to clear the stock spring perch. I had slight rubbing on the stock valance which required rolling the edge in a little. Also, in the rear I thought I had no rubbing issues, and I didn't for some time until I drove the car hard with a passenger and then I experienced some rubbing at the top of the arch. Your experience may be different, but you may want to look at 215s or 205s when the time comes.

I have a 7/71 parts car. VIN number HLS30-37832, which is pretty close to Arne's. Also red.

I have the same setup as the OP and like I mentioned earlier in the thread, I had rubbing on the front valance. I have also experienced slight rubbing in the rear since I last posted in this thread. I think 70 Cam Guy's setup is a good one. The +4 offset provides more spring perch clearance and the 205 tires are 20mm narrower than 225s so you will gain additional space from a narrower tire. You would definitely have rubbing issues with +4 offset running 225s. If I had 205s with my +10 offset rims it would likely clear the stock spring perch and the front valance, but I'm sure it's still really tight. I have recently installed coil overs so I no longer need the 5mm spacer to clear the spring perch and have gained a little more space at the front valance.

I used the Kia ws for the inner hatch seal and I think it works great. Gluing weatherstripping is such a pain so being able to just push it on is quite nice. I haven't had any hatch sealing or closing issues.

My experience is with the 240z, but I'm sure they are probably similar. You'll have to contort your body around to chase down the wires under the dash that connect to the switches. You must unhook these first so you can pull the switches out through the hole in the door jam. It's never a comfortable experience to do anything under the dash so I considered unhooking them the most difficult part of the job. During the process of restoring my z I just unhooked the wires under the dash and took some pliers and ripped the old ones out. I wasn't too concerned about the paint since it was all coming off anyway. Mine were so rusted that the button no longer moved and they had been stuck in for ages. The switches are just a cylinder with some spring tabs around the outside that press against the hole that they go through. They should pull out without too much force. I would try pulling on the button first and if that doesn't work see if you can get a thin blade between the switch and jam and work it out a little and then grab it with some pliers. Once they are out you can push the new ones back in and chase down the wires from behind the kick panel. Come to think about it, you'll probably have to remove your kick panel to get the wires out from behind and route them through the hole in the kick panel. When I replaced mine I also installed some custom speaker kick panels, so I already had mine out. Not sure what 280z kick panels look like or how they are removed, but mine were held in with the hood latch bracket, turn signal relay, a plastic interior rivet, and some metal tabs toward the firewall and on the passenger side I had relays and all the brackets as well. You might have more or less to remove. Crawl down in there and remove that stuff and the kick panels come out pretty easily. I suppose you could attach a string to the end of your old switch wires and pull it through when you remove it and use the string to pull the new wires through the kick panel. That was my experience, hope it helps. Marc