JonnyRock

Well I went and ordered the 'Just SUs' DVD from ZTherapy. In the mean time, I hope to be able to do a valve adjustment tomorrow. I'll update as I can. Thanks guys.

I chucked my smog pump. It was seized and no longer hooked up because the manifold was removed.

What?

So I'm having some real trouble with my SU's. Ever since I got my headers and exhaust put on, my car hasn't been running super smoth. It ran like a top previously. I attributed the poorer running to the exhaust guys likely messing up the carb settings when they removed it all to put on my headers and not properly tuning them when they were put back on. So in anticipation of tuning the carbs myself, I replaced the spark plugs. The car had been running very rich (noticable exhaust visible, soot on tailpipes and garage wall, and gasoline/water on the ground behind the pipes when warming the car up) and I figured the plugs could stand to be replaced. I was correct, as all but 2 had a good deal of carbon build up (#4 an 6 looked good I believe). Well two days later I came out to a dead battery, my glove box light was the culprit (damn pin!). In the process of jumping the car, I fouled 2 plugs. It needed a lot of cranking to get started which probably did it. When it fired it was noticably stumbling. So I replaced those two plugs. That's 8 new plugs if you're counting. Well I didn't drive the car much for the next 2 weeks. I'm taking 19 credits, work 30+ hrs per week and have extra curriculars so there wasn't time for the Z. The little that I drove it though, it quickly deteriorated in terms of driving performance. Got to the point where it was stumbling, bogging, and backfiring almost constantly. So yesterday I have the time to do a proper tune job. Or at least attempt it, as I've never touched carbs before let alone SU's. So I follow the steps in my 3 auto manuals. First I replace the plugs because I know that I need to be 100% sure that they're good. Once again, 4 of the 6 have a good deal of carbon (they were probably fine, but oh well). That's 14 plugs! I heat up the engine. Remove the airbox. Loosen the throttle screws. Tighten the mixture nuts, then loosen them. Here's my first problem. The books say I should get 2 1/2 turns before the screws hit their stops. But mine spin like 5 times. I attach my test tach and start the engine. Second problem. My test tach reads 300rpm lower than my dash tach. I get the engine down to 600-700 rpm on the test tach, then use the uni-syn to match the carbs. Third problem. My MSA uni-syn doesn't read at that low a flow. I have to increase rpm just to get the float to move. But I get them matched. Then I start adjusting the throttle screws again. Then mixture nuts. Going step by step. Trying to follow the book and get things leveled out. When all is said and it's running better. No more backfiring. But it definitley ain't driving great. It idles at 1000 on my dash (the test gauge said 700 I don't know which is correct). It's not particularly smooth. I seem to have gone over-center with the throttle. Meaning it's near dead pedal for the first bit of travel and then suddenly gives, revving the engine real quick. I don't know what to do. I don't have experience with carbs, but I understand their function pretty well. It was a real pain in the arse getting these two synced. The pistons in both move well, and have proper damper fluid. But the rear one seems to increase flow more than the front. The rear linkage was sticking, but I lubed it. The line from the front float to the nozzle was wet, so I may have a leak there. I still don't know what to do about the mixture, as the smell is still very strong. There's still visible exhaust under idle and acceleration. My balance tube has a servo hanging off it which I need to plug. Do I need to fully dissasemble and rebuild them? Should I take it to a shop? The only shop I can think of that would really know what they're doing is 'European Motorworks' as they deal with a lot of the older little British cars and their SU's. Should I spring for the rebuild kit from ZTherapy? If I do, what do I do in the mean time? :stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid:

I just looked @ mine. It looks identical. My bad.

I'm pretty sure my 2/70 filler 'flange' doesn't look like that. It's late and I can't be sure, but that looks aftermarket.

little late on this one, but better late than never so Happy Bday Dave!

This is what everyone should be doing with just about every manual tranny. Your tranny does not have a reverse synchro. Therefore you should shift the lever into first before engaging reverse. This matches the speed of the transmission to the speed the engine is spinning. You should really throw it into first and not a different gear though because reverse and first are the most closely matched ratios. You don't have to move the car forward in gear, but you can. Just going through the motion will shift the fork and allow the first gear synchro to do it's job. You shouldn't need to 'quickly' shift into reverse either. Normal speed will do. If you're regularly grinding reverse because you don't let the transmission match speed, you're destroying your tranny.

I just picked up two sets of NGK BP6ES-11's today. They ran about $2 apiece at NAPA. They had to order them in. And my FSM says the same as Arne's.

I didn't know why it was called the 'ZZZAP' before just now. Reading that advertisement was very cool. It's interesting to note that the Z in the ad doesn't have the appearance package!

Just out of curiosity: I've heard that these L6 cranks are pretty beefy. Does anyone know how much a stock 240 crank weighs?

So I ordered a full set of u-joints from MSA about a month ago. Finally had the free time to tackle this issue. Here's what I found after pulling the driver's side halfshaft: This joint was toatlly dry and rusted on two sides. It really didn't want to rotate in the direction of the arrow. So I'm taking both halfshafts into "Driveline Services of Bellingham" tomorrow and he's pressing in my new joints for about $60. Thanks to Arne and Dave!

It may have been rebuilt at some point, but "factory rebuilt" it was not. Try to stay away from terms like this as they often denote a seller that is trying to embellish the truth.

It says "last edited by 1971 240z" WTF mate? :stupid: I've moved it back. No one touch my pin, alright ?

duPont Registry anything = EXPENSIVE That black and grey Z is a Hybridz.org member's car.

At least we can all agree on the superiority of the Z!

I seem to remember having to spin it so that the snorkel is more or less pointing up. It definitely takes some 'finnageling'

I've not nearly had the same track record as you. My gf's macbook has been back to apple 4 times in 3 years for repair. Thank god she bought 3 year applecare. That said, I've used both macs and pc's throughout my life and can see the advantages and disadvantages of each. But if everyone switched to a mac it would become a target for malware and everything else. It's simply that mac market share is small enough now that it doesn't make sense to program bad stuff for it when there's soo many more pc's out there.

and now we find out what this thing's all about...

Yes it will.

Yes it should have caught it before anything could happen if you've got Avast always-on. However, if for some reason it got by then there's a good chance Avast won't locate it. This bug's very good at disabling anti-virus software. It never hurts to run the Symantec removal client. ___________________________________________________ Here's the GIZMODO article: Giz Explains: How a Brainy Worm Might Jack the World's PCs on April 1 "It's lurking in millions of PCs around the world. It's incredibly sophisticated and resilient, with built-in p2p and digital code-signing technology. It revels in killing security software. On April 1, the Conficker worm will activate. The scariest thing about the Conficker worm is that literally millions of infected Windows PCs could be linked together to do its bidding. The second scariest thing is that no one really knows what its creator is going to do with this virtual army on April 1, when it's scheduled to contact a server for instructions. It's so bad, Microsoft has a running $250,000 bounty for the author, dead or alive. (Well, they probably want him alive, but they hate his guts.) The New York Times' John Markoff rounded up some of the more ingeniously evil possibilities in a compelling article, the most sinister being a "Dark Google," postulated by University of California at San Diego researcher Stefan Savage, that would let bad people scour zombie machines all around the world for data to sell to other bad people. But let's back up a bit. Conficker—whose weird name is a combination of "configuration" and a slightly more polite word for f***er, according to Urban Dictionary—actually began life as a lowly, "not very successful" worm in November, says Vincent Weafer, VP at Symantec Security Response. Weafer told us it exploited a Microsoft remote server vulnerability that had already been announced and patched the previous month, so the only systems that were vulnerable were the ones that weren't up to date. The B release, pushed in December, on the other hand, was "wildly successful," says Weafer, infecting millions of unpatched computers because it's an aggressive little bastard—the first worm in years on a scale like Blaster. It has built-in p2p capabilities, and brute forces its way into open shared folders or printers, so it can crawl an office network quickly. It also piggybacks onto USB flash and hard drives. On top of all that, it's designed to be incredibly resilient, killing security software, disabling Windows Update, and digging down deep. The C release came out this past month. It doesn't go after new machines—it's actually a payload for computers already infected with B. It transformed Conficker from a sneezing pandemic into a seriously nasty plague. With C, its p2p powers are extended further, with digital code-signing, so it only accepts trusted code updates from itself. That means security experts can't simply inject code to neutralize it. The patch also made Conficker better at killing security software. And it expanded the scope of the domains it tries to contact for instructions from 250 to 50,000, completely neutralizing security experts' previous tactic of seizing the domains. There's effectively no way to the cut the head off of this demon snake. The stage is set: On April 1, Conficker will reach out for the millions-strong zombienet's next set of instructions. So what will happen? Well, no one knows for sure. Conficker's creator can do whatever he wants with his army. Launch massive denial-of-service attacks, setup the "Dark Google" syndicate, target millions of new machines, or generate a tidal wave of spam that'll crash against servers all over the world. Most likely though, Weafer told us, Conficker's creator is motivated by money—they'll rent it out. And if Conficker's used as a massive doomsday tool, they'll "quickly lose the ability to make money" with it. A low key operation harnessing the power of computers that are mainly located in developing nations may not have a big impact, though it would certainly set a terrible precedent: Whatever Conficker's results, they will lead others to develop this idea in frightening new directions. Conficker's innovative approach that utilizes p2p, code-signing and a distributed domain setup will very possibly serve as inspiration to other malware writers, who Weafer said "you can bet" are watching Conficker's success very closely, just as Conficker's creators have clearly learned from past malware. It's like evil open source. That doesn't mean April 1 will be a "digital Pearl Harbor." If your machine is patched and up to date, the Microsoft Report's Ed Bott tells us, you'll probably be totally fine. And yes, you can get rid of it if you happen to be infected. There is an outside chance Conficker could turn into a massive parallel computer that borders on self-aware, come April 1, but more than likely, the day will come and go without you noticing anything weird, just some extra spam in your box for some V@ltr3xxx."

No need to do all that. Here's the website for the Symantec Conficker removal program. Just download and run this and you'll be fine. It removes all 3 versions of the bug. W.32Downadup Removal Tool - Symantec The real problem with this worm is it's a real headache for network admins and there are millions of people running outdated software that don't know they're infected.

I'd put mine in a park as well! (Well technically it's just an arboretum)

I am. Why?

Couldn't he have just replaced the switch with that pull type? That shift boot looks like the original type. It's in remarkably good condition compared to the seats.