JonnyRock

Welcome to the board! Not many people own 2+2s so you'll be of a select few. I used to really dislike their looks, but the quirks have grown on me. I don't know very much about the 2+2s but the S30's are in fact a good deal longer, as evidenced by the broken roof line. Datsun most definitely didn't just throw a back seat into 'em. Check out those quarter windows and the panel following the door too. I've attached a comparison photo. Coupe on top, 2+2 on bottom. BTW, that right there is the.best.looking.2+2ever. Period.

I'm gonna crawl under my car and take a look at/feel the u-joints and see if I can pinpoint what's wrong. How much play should I look for? What's a dead give away that I've got a bad joint? I've been looking through the old threads on this and some people could feel play in theirs, some couldn't even though they were bad. I'm also thinking about just replacing all of 'em. I've been itching for a real hands on project and this'll be my first shot at working under the car. Anyone have experience with the joints offered by MSA and Black Dragon? I don't think I need to spring for heavy duty ones because I don't plan on substantially increasing my cars power output. MSA and Black Dragon have very similar pricing. So similar I wouldn't be surprised if they're the same product. Although the club discount would make MSA the cheaper option. And they'd be here quicker (less distance). Anyway, any thoughts or tips would be much appreciated!

Again, he has already passed on this one. This is a dead thread.

Yea, you're looking at a '67 'Fairlady' (or 1600 Roadster here in the states). The 'Fairlady Z' is an entirely different car (known here as 240Z, 260Z, etc).

I'd be very interested in the drivers door hinge/spring assembly as I have been unable to aquire on thus far. Included is a pic. Let us know when you start to tear her down.

Do these U-Joints have Zerk fittings?

Yep only when rolling. It goes away when brakes are applied, or the clutch is disengaged.

I recently noticed that my suspensions squeaks quite badly upon deceleration. It can only be heard when under 30mph and decelerating and it sounds like a family of finches is somewhere under my car. *Tweet**Tweet**Tweet**Tweet**Tweet**Tweet* It's kind of rhythmic and stops when I apply the brakes. However when I bounce each corner of the car manually, there is no noise. Anyone know where the squeaking is coming from? I've been planning on getting new bushings all around so it sounds like now might be the time.

Actually it's not just Oregon, it's nationwide. The $4-5 a gallon over last summer made every states revenue plunge. Being a Portland are native I know that they have some funny laws. Hell they're the only state in the union that still has a 55mph limit through the cities (I believe it's the only one at least). And conedogger I don't know where you were driving in Portland but I don't know of a single car (save for a few grannies) who obey the 55mph limit regularly. I'd say average speed it 60-65 when there isn't traffic. However Oregon is very proud of their Highway Patrol and those guys are out in force regularly. You've gotta be very careful in cities like Beaverton and Sandy because it seems all their police do is sit on the highway with a laser/radar gun.

I recently put MSA 3-2 headers and twice pipes and since WA doesn't require it to pass emissions I am now looking to remove my smog equipment. I would like to cap and remove all circled elements. Those that say they've capped these connections, what specifically did you use? _________________________________ I'm actually not opposed to leaving #3 I'm really just concerned with #1 and 2 because I've removed the smog pump.

Because of the fiberglass I'd probably get insurance in on this. If it was the stock sheet metal back there a repair would be a known quantity. But E is right that the fiberglass is not a good sign. It should just be metal back there and it sounds like there was a previous repair. Attaching the overrider bar to a new bumper shouldn't be a problem.

According to an identical thread posted by blueshark123 on hybridz.org he is no longer interested in this Z. Apparently the seller purchased this Z in it's current state some time last year for $600. He soon tried to sell it for $1000 and when he didn't have any takers I guess he raised his price! Also someone claims to have checked it out and it is not rust free at all.

Pass. I agree w/Steve that it'd be cheaper to have a decent one shipped from the west coast.

Saw this on Jalopnik awhile ago. Neat video. The lack of dialog is refreshing. Great music coming from the car!

Stay away from that seller!!!!! Check out this VERY active thread here with 150 postings, all about avoiding 'datsun-parts'. Terrible Vendor - Datsun Parts

Welcome Peter! So do you own a 240 now, or are you looking to get one?

Welcome! Hope it's got round tops on it, otherwise that'd be the first switch you should make! 1) Good question, I can't help you there but this board definitely can. 2) Answers to this question are easily found with the 'Search' function. I don't know the specs off the top of my head other than to say yes a number of wheels are available. 3) Again easily answered with the 'Search' function. I believe the most popular solution is 80's Toyota Pickup calipers and discs or 80's Maxima calipers. 4) There are a couple of seat belt options. I have a great retractable 3 point setup in my car. Im not sure what it is, so I'll check on that and try to get back to you. Once again, welcome to the forum! This is an amazing place and essential to fully enjoying your new Z!

I was hoping for a new video Dave, but I've always enjoyed that one. One word: FUN! That's the whole point.

Arne, I replaced mine last summer with a 'Denki' unit. I just checked my parts bin and the old one was an 'Ampco'. Now I don't know if that was the original pump or not, but after reading the previous posts I'm inclined to think it's not. In the late 70's my car was converted to dual Webers (how dare they!) before being switched back to SU's in the late 80's. This leads me to believe my pump may have been replaced as well when the carbs were switched.

Here in the States you can rent/borrow a pickle fork set from most auto parts stores (NAPA, Schucks, AutoZone, Kragen). Is there any place by you where you might be able to borrow a set? I just got a loaner kit for changing the ball joints on my Ford Exploder and it really helped.

Yes, and got rid of a knob. These later clocks are known as 'Calendar' clocks because of the date window and the removal of the stopwatch function.

These are cropped from Arne's 2 pictures. This is the support that's welded to the radiator cross member.

And the link FilipeA just posted starts at $600!

Stephen, I'm glad you're planning on a traditional spook! I've always liked your car (very tasteful) but I've never liked that front air dam. I think it breaks the kind of pointed look of the front end that I like so much. Sorry I can't be of help with finding the stock front clip though.

Just read Arne's link. I guess my boot is not original.