JonnyRock

Definitely crack that open and see what comes out. It'll take just a few minutes, and it's better than risking gunking up your fuel system. Gasoline has a lifespan of 6-12 months, so that stuff is probably no good anyway (although I have heard stories, and even ran some 2yo gas in a truck of mine).

I didn't that he'd get removed though. Way to stay on top of things guys!

Thanks for the advice 88, but one of the points of this forum is sharing knowledge about how to fix these cars yourself. If you read the last post, I stated that I had fixed my issue and all was right with the world.

Cool stuff Dave, can't wait to see it finished. Window worked out great btw.

That's exactly what Kats goes over in the first post.

HLS30 -01704 has the 4th type, but I have only one clip and it's broken. Any chance of more being made?

I got a shift boot from LBO730, a member here. Try asking him as I do think he makes them. And he does good work. But if not, I'm pretty sure I remember seeing MSA and Black Dragon sell them.

I figured it might have been caught before. But didn't want to do a search.

In the latest mobile one commercial, a minivan with nascar style numbers on the side is driving left across the screen for the first 10 seconds or so. About 5-7 seconds in, when the camera gets closest to the van, a green Z speed by in the opposite direction between the camera and the van.

I'm not sure what they're worth. But I can tell you they're not stock. The seats themselves appear to be stock units (shape and cushioning), but they've been recovered. Z seats were originally vinyl. That being said, they do look like they're in good condition.

Early Z's had problems with u-joints because of the angle of the halfshafts. This was fixed later. I believe the differential was moved rearward a bit to ease things up. I know a few people here recommend Spicer brand u-joints and any axle shop should be a ble to get those for you. I just replaced my u-joints a few months ago and went with the ones that MSA sells. They were a japanese brand I think. The "vapor tank" is not necissarily your problem. Fuel fumes are a notorious Z problem and have been cured by everything from sealing the taillights, to extending the tailpipe, to replacing vent hoses. I wouldn't recommend removing it because it is a functional piece. I think you should search the forums for previous posts about other owners and their solutions. Good luck!

From my experience, Arne is correct. Don't take NAPA's word on your car's specs. Especially if it's still externally regulated. What could posses you to fiddle with the points that much? Have you not gotten the settings where you like them yet? Because it's my understanding that the points and condesor should be left well enough alone unless you know something is wrong. I think people replace these far too often during "tune-ups" when there was nothing wrong with what they had. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

So I ordered the POR-15 fuel tank kit and a new sending unit from MSA ($140), dropped the fuel tank and looked inside... SPOTLESS! Looks like a new friggin' tank! and the fuel lines are clear. So now I'm gonna go pick up an electric pump and see what else it could be. Any ideas?

If you know the block is original to the car, you will have 'matching numbers'. Because there were many different S30 models produced (HS30, HLS30, HLS30-U, etc) and the same engines spread over these model lines (as well as different engines available in different markets) there is likely no car who's "VIN" matches the engine number.

The engine number and "VIN" won't match. By 'matching numbers' all that is meant is that the original engine block is still in the car. On 240's there is a small tag on the passenger side of the engine bay on the wheel well. The tag has the "VIN" and the engine number engraved on it. These number will not match each other. However, on the passenger side of the block there should be a number cast onto the side as well. If this number matches the number on the tag, you have 'matching numbers'. Then you can get into having the correct head to go with the block, correct intake runners, and correct carbs but none of those have a unique number, just a 'model' number. I know that the tag is in different places depending on the model of Z. With a little searching of the forums you can find where your tag is located.

Can anyone answer this? I took my car out today and it drove for about 5 minutes, then sputtered to a stop. I checked the ignition coil, points, and condenser and everything seems fine. I pulled the fuel line to the first carb and cranked the motor, and got nothing out of the line. The fuel pump is mechanical and less than a year old. Checked the filter and it isn't clogged. Tried blowing back through the fuel line that runs to the filter and couldn't get any air through (using my lungs). I believe this means my sender is clogged. Before I got this car 2 years ago it sat largely unused for 10+ years and I know that there could be a bunch of gunk in the tank. The car will run for a second when starter fluid is used, so it must be a fuel delivery problem. My plan is to get a hold of an air compressor and try and blow out the line back to the tank. Then I'll see about dropping the tank. There is roughly 4 gallons left in there. Can anyone give me some advice on pulling the tank and cleaning it? I know POR-15 makes a product and you can also get them cleaned (I assume at a radiator shop)?

You're LED's have been tempting me for 2 years now. I'll let ya know when I have a spare $250 Dave.

One of my favorite sites! Be sure to get it on there, as it's just the site that will connect him with the right kind of buyer.

From what I've read, this replacement is the bane of all Z restorers and owners.

Thanks Arne, I'll be sure to do that. I believe that these are the last of the braided hoses in mine, except for the cam cover to air cleaner line.

Looking at my earlier threads, someone already gave me a tip on this. But if you have anymore, do tell.

My Z overheated on the way home last night, and spewed out most of it's coolant. I took it into our shop and put it up on the lift today to figure out what happened. Looks like my heater core line is shot. It's fine when cold (because the thermostat isn't open) but as soon as it warms up coolant starts pouring out. I had a small leak (little dripping) there a few months ago, but tightening the clamps cleared that up. I was hoping to do the same this time (you can see I added a new clamp today) but it didn't work. I have the replacement hoses from MSA and am willing to pull everything but I'd like your guys' advice. Have any of you replaced these hoses while everything is still in the car? What's the best way to do things?

IMHO: Stay very far away from 'reddat'

I like that one in the middle very much...

Considering his location and the fact tht he owns multiple Z's, its probably fair to say he knows what he's getting into. Best of luck!