JonnyRock

Looks like I'll miss it this year. Have fun guys!

My point was that you don't see the center panel. And there is a gap.

Nice days is all they have in SoCal...

1. It's metal. 2. Original color is dark grey (not black as I mistakenly said - thanks Arne). 3. Pop 'em both off (It's two side separate side panels with a gap in the middle that's hidden by the license plate) and paint!

Interesting the the colder climate guy uses the heavier weight oil...

The problem w/ Sol is it's only like 3.5% alcohol. I think they started thinking that because all the British drink their beer warm. It's not because they want to though, it's because all of their refridgerators were 'The Prince of Darkness' Lucas Electric! Hard to drink cold beer when your fridge doesn't work!

Strongbow is a great cider. Tastes just like apple juice. 1554 (Fat Tire Brewery) has a rich Chocolate taste, but may be too much for a first beer. I've always enjoyed Corona w/ a lime slice in the neck (in the bottle! not their new can) Any Henry Weinhards! Probably the Heffeweizen to start. Pyramid Heffy is good too. There's always Coors/Bud/Miller. They're alright, and great if your goal is to get ****ed up. But I don't think they're one that is "to be enjoyed" But if you really want to enjoy a beer I'd recommend you expiriment and just as many as you can. Most restaurants that are at all beer-centric often have Samplers where you can try 5 or six different brews for a reasonable price.

Dave's right. If the gap is to small, the spark will be too small and not develop a sufficient flamefront. If it's too big the spark won't bridge the gap. This is because air is an insulator and has a relativley high electrical resistance. On a related note, multi pronged plugs don't create multiple sparks. The plug fires exactly like a normal plug and the spark jumps to one of the prongs. The benefit of multiple prongs is that the spark has a number of paths to choose from and one may be less resistant at that moment. They may also cause less wear on the electrode. There are systems that fire multiple times during a single combustion event (like on my explorer) but again, it's one spark at a time.

Last couple times out I've been partial to 'Mac & Jacks' It's a local beer out of Redmond, WA.

Baby Car 'Zeat'!

One of the most common questions about Z's. You could fill volumes with the amount of info about fixing the gas fumes issue. On this board and others. Fixes range from lengthening your tailpipe, to sealing your hatch, to adjusting your floats. Try a couple of search terms and you'll find all kinds of possible solutions. Good luck!

I recently found out that my tach reads about 300rpm high. Checked it with two different trouble tachs and same result. It was a constant value too, 300 across the whole range.

Ha, I was going to respond with "He's off his rocker" but it looks like the seller has come to his senses. He had originally posted it at the ridiculous price of $1000, but now has lowered it to a reasonable $200.

From what I know, they're pretty much interchangeable. However, MAF typically refers to a hot-wire system or a few others which measure the mass of air ( the hot wire measures a voltage signal and therefore air mass), while AFM is a system that measures air speed.

UPDATE: All Fixed! So I bought the ZT DVD. And it was a great help. I set the valve lash cold, then hot. Then partially disassembled and cleaned the carbs. Then tuned em like shown in the video. It ran great in the garage, but terrible out on the street. I put two and two together and figured if it was running so well in neutral, but bogging under load my plug wires may be no good. So I picked up some new NGK wires from NAPA and whaddya know? She runs like a top now! Thanks everyone, problem resolved.

If I counted right, I'm only the second so far who daily drives their Z... Interesting.

bingo

You beat me to posting this by 2 hours!

Here's a neat article on Jalopnik about Datsuns novel approach to voice tech in the early 80's. Basically, instead of a computer chip they used a mini record and turntable! http://jalopnik.com/5246380/1982-datsun-voice-warning-box-used-tiny-phonograph-record-just-like-moon-base-robots Cool stuff.

Ditto... Well, close enough description of my situation.

The Dodge ENVI is vaporware. Not only will it never make it to production, it's not a Dodge. They stuck a Dodge badge on a Lotus Europa.

I'll chime in because I just replaced my u-joints last month. It's a PITA, but only because there's not a great amount of room to wrench. You'll have to jack the rear up, remove the wheels, slide under and start wrenching (and spinning your body around). There's 4 nuts to remove on each side of the diff, and 4 bolts at each wheel. Then some penetrating oil and well placed whacks on the flanges (don't damage the shaft itself!) and you've got em out. It'll take you a few hours to do the whole job. I bought 6 new joints from MSA for $106 (about $18 per). Only ended up putting in the half-shaft joints, as that cured my squeak. The local drive line repair shop pressed in the new joints for $65 (works out to $15 per plus tax). The shop actually sold Spicer, which I had been looking for, but I already had my joints. Overall, I'd definitely recommend you do it. I had exhaust in the way that made things more difficult, but it wasn't that bad. It was ultimately a lot of fun actually. BTW, I'm not sure of the brand MSA sells. It's a japanese brand, I'll check when I get home though.

Thanks for reminding me, I'll check on that. I did think I heard something that could have been a vacuum leak when I was working on them last.