JonnyRock

The 3 heater hoses I received are marked "HOSE WATER" and have the #'s: B7185-E4401 B7181-N3000 A4056-E3001 I also got a small braided reducer, but don't have the part #.

I just bought the heater core hoses from MSA, which came straight from a Nissan dealer apparently. I've got #'s for those too.

Can someone tell me the part # for the barrel clips? I'd like to check the dealership tomorrow.

Damn. You need some serious power to roll 12" wides. Vipers come stock with 12 and 13's.

Thanks Dave. Luckily, it was still holding on by one pin. But it came right out when I pulled it off. No sticktion at all. Wondering how to reattach it.

I was driving around on errands the other day and it occured to me that the roads had gotten considerably rougher after the couple weeks of snow we had. When I got home I just happened to take a look back at my hood, an the emblem was barely hanging on! It had apparently vibrated off. It looks like the two pins were lined up and it simply got glued in place before. I was wondering what sort of glue should I use? Is this how it should be attached? The pins are clearly not a press fit.

Nice! I'm assuming you won the auction then?

Let me say first off, that MSA has stepped up to the plate on this one. I suggested a solution I thought was fair and they agreed. I've planned all along to do a thorough refreshing after I graduate in a year. At that point, I will remove the header and MSA has agreed to exchange it for a new one. I don't think it's appropriate to demand they pay me for the added expense of this header, so an exchange at a later date was best solution. Abraham at MSA was great to deal with, quickly contacting me and apologizing for the inconvenience. I thought so too. I was as surprised as the both of you. I looked at the picture on the site again after I recieved the system, and if you look closely it's apparent that they're a horizontal setup. I wish that it said this in the description though because all twice pipes systems I had seen on 240s previously were vertically stacked. But like I said above, I will be removing everything in a year or so and I'll probably have a shop fab a system at that point.

Finally got a chance to snap some pics while it's sunny. As you can see, it's not perfect. The kit didn't fit quite right, so the tips come out at a slight angle. I also didn't want the rear valence to be cut so I had them hang it lower than usual. Now I plan on hiding that unsightly hanger by either fabing up a piece of black metal and magneting it on the inside of the rear valence to cover the cut out, or otherwise wrapping/painting that hangar. You can see in one of the images where the hole in the header was patched. It ain't pretty, but it seems to have worked. Although I think I may hear a slight leak still. It's hard to tell because the carbs need to be tuned and I need to take care of the smog equipment that's been disconnected. Either of those could be causing what I'm hearing.

You had to? You added nothing to this dead thread.

All done! The patch weld worked. Total was $606.xx so overall this was about a $1k job. I love the sound. There is some drone around ~2700 but hopefully it will move as everything gets broken in. Oh, and the carbs badly need adjustment. Well I've included a video although it's too dark to see anything. The audio isn't great but it gets the message across. I'll try to take and upload some pics before work tomorrow. <embed src="http://videos.streetfire.net/vidiac.swf?video=1c7d460e-7002-460e-bbdd-9b930155136c" width="428" height="352" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed><br/><a href="http://upload.streetfire.net/video/New-Exhaust_339763.htm?ref=903e0826-5c72-490e-b454-9b680145330e">New Exhaust</a>

There was no apparent bend in my header flange. At least not that I noticed. I don't know about them tightening it, but what's done is done. And they used the header gasket which was included w/the header.

Ok, well I spoke to MSA again after going back to the shop. When I got back to the shop they showed me the hole. It's right in between the 3-4 ports, where the weld is. Not a good location. They told me that they could try to patch it, but it would be a one shot deal. Plus, the ceramic coating in the dime sized area would be toast. I spoke to MSA again and after getting the run around for awhile (they told me I had to call back Monday, I said no way!), they eventually gave the go ahead for the weld repair attempt. If it doesn't work they'll still accept a return/exchange (as rightly they should). If the repair does work, I'm just ready to be done with it. This is costing extra and my result will be less than it should but I just want it done. I'm planning on fully taking apart the Z and refreshing it in a few years (when I have a garage) so I'm okay with a header that is blemished, as long as it works. It sounds great btw, as long as you ignore the leak! So I'll be sure to post a new vid tonight or tomorrow.

UPDATE: They weren't able to get me in on Tuesday because of a scheduling mistake, so I took it in Thursday (yesterday) morning. And it's been nothing but trouble since then. As far as I know, the old manifold came off just fine and the headers went on just fine. But when they started to put the exhaust on they ran into fit issues. Just before the muffler section, the pipes bent upward and they needed to be cut to allow the pipes to come out at the correct angle and not stick out a whole foot. I expected there would be a small fit issue, so I didn't have any problem with that. But they called this morning saying that the headers leak! WTF? Apparently it's up at the top section. They've told me they can try and patch it but I'm looking at $120 or so extra and they're not sure how well it'll work on these coated headers. Plus it'll be UGLY. I've called MSA to let them know the header is flawed and they should be n contact with me soon. So now I'm thinking I'll have them put the old manifold on and alter the exhaust to fit while I wait on a new header. What do y'all think?

I actually dig it in that color. However, the rest of the car is another matter. What's up with those fenders? It's got an odd front clip too. Overall, I'd pass. _______________________________________________________________________ Ooooh. Looking closer, he's modified the hood and fenders to swing open all together. This probably necessitates the different front clip. Neat, but no thank you.

Today was a good day. I stood in line @ the post office for 30min but was rewarded with my much anticipated package from Banzai Motorsports (www.zzxdatsun.com). It's an excellent (9 out of 10) condition 1970 Chassis Factory Service Manual. It completes my set, as the 70 FSMs came as a pair. I managed to steal my Engine FSM on eBay, only $20 plus shipping for a pristine example (9 out of 10). The Banzai manual was a reasonable $70+ $15 shipping. After the post office, I made a stop by the local UPS depot and picked up my new copy of "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine." This completes my set of how-to books I picked up on Amazon.com (the others being "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" and "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine). And I also finally made an appointment to get my headers + exhaust installed! It's the third time I've made an appointment but this time I'll actually be able to follow through. Really! It's all come together. If you can't tell, I'm super excited to hear my twice pipes! I'll be sure to post pictures and video when it's done!

Nice, I figured he'd know of the place. Only a few miles from him. But instead of calling I decided to ask everyone here.

Just wondering if anyone is familiar with "Z Sport"? It's an autoshop located in Everett, WA just off exit 193. I drive by it every time I visit my parents, once going and once coming. I've checked out their website and they look fairly Z centric, but has anyone dealt with them?

As a general rule you should just get the most cranking amps you can afford. Just make sure the battery fits. And go with a standard, maintenance free one. You could go with an Optima-type, but I've never dealt with one of those and they are different so unless you know what you're doing I'd just recommend an Interstate/Autolite/etc.

You're right. There is a constant mismatch in any photos showing the doors.

Have you noticed that he covers his mouth with the ShamWow when he says "and this lasts for 10 years!" It's clearly a voice over and I think it's shady that they cover his mouth when he says it. They might change it and not honor their "10 year" guarantee.

No, but my gf bought me 'The Absorber' for my stocking last year. That thing is awesome! Great for drying off the car in a hurry.

Engine bay looks fairly original. Still has the finger protector on the radiator. New door panels are gonna cost you.

I would've snapped one of those up a long time ago if I didn't have a full twice pipes setup on the floor in my living room. Those ANSA's are classy.