JonnyRock

You're gonna love your '70! You should check out some of member kats's posts and see if you have some of the rare pieces from early Z's. My #1704 has a few and finding them has been really cool.

How your engine breathes is one of the most important factors. So a good intake/header/exhaust setup, will not only likely increase power, but also responsiveness so you notice it much more.

I love reading this thread...

I had this same problem a few times after I put a new internally regulated alternator on mine as well. It would squeal VERY loudly, the ammeter would jump to + and I would panic. Upon inspection, I found the alternator itself to be very hot to the touch. I determined that the belt was not tightened correctly and must have been slipping. This created friction and caused the alternator to heat up. I'm not sure it the ammeter reading was a result of increased resistance due to heat, or if it was working when it wasn't supposed to be because of the slippage issue. Either way, after a few tries, I got the alternator positioned correctly to provide just the right pressure on the belt and haven't had a problem since!

And don't leave 'em sitting open with fluid, as I recall being told brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air, and you don't want water in your lines.

I bought a set of keys from Reddat 1 month ago, he charged me $10 for shipping! One freaking set of keys! I have yet to receive feedback from him and will not buy from him again. I may be interested in a set of bolts.

I posted it in the "Z's in movies" earlier as well.

A wheel dynamometer would measure power at the wheels, and then use an equation assuming 15% or so powertrain loss to determine Brake Horsepower (power at the flywheel). An engine dyno would do just the opposite. BTW: That 15% varies depending on many factors.

They're on airport way. Head east away from I-205 until you'd turn right to go to Costco. Instead, turn left, and they should be right there on your left. Check 'em out here www.horsepowerfreaks.com