JonnyRock

Your careful artificial limb? Did you mean "prosthesis" or analysis?

Thanks Dave, I knew you'd have 2 cents. I'll check it out.

No one?

I recently bought a radar detector for my 300 mile commute home that a make a few times a year. But I ran into a problem when I plugged it into my cigarette lighter socket. It doesn't come on. I tried it in my gf's Jetta and it works fine. My cigarette lighter itself is also working fine, so I'm not sure what's up. Is it not providing enough power to the detector? Are the contacts not lining up because it's an old style socket? Has anyone else encountered this? Dave, have any ideas?

All you need to do to enrich the mixture is turn the nickel-sized knob on the bottom clockwise. Do it while the car is running. There's a little nub on each one so you know how far you've turned it. Start with a half a turn on each, and proceed until it's running well. Then dial them back until the mixture is just barely too lean. The engine will bog and hesitate when you try the accelerator. Then simply enrich them one quarter turn and off you go!

Sounds to me like it's running too lean and you need to enrich the mixture. Does your Z have the round top SU's?

Doing some homework while perusing eBay, and in the back ground I hear "You're really gonna love this car man, mint condition" which catches my attention of course, and when I look up, what do I see but an orange 240/280Z stripped, vandalized, and sitting on blocks. It was a "nowwhat.com" commercial for State Farm Insurance. Nice little late-night find, thought I'd share it with y'all.

Napa, Schuck's/Kragen, and SummitRacing all carry 240 filters in the low teens ($).

10in is WIDE. Stock width is 5.75-6in, so there's a difference of about 4 inches. You'll likely need wheel spacers and wheels with significant negative offset.

Check out this '73 for sale. It only has 19,000 miles! Story: http://jalopnik.com/386439/1980s-new-jersey-time-capsule-19k+mile-datsun-240z-could-be-yours Sale: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-1973-240Z-in-storage-for-25-Years-19K-MILES_W0QQitemZ230247712854QQcmdZViewItem

I don't understand this argument. It's like the argument against sex education in schools. "If you teach it, they'll do it!" Well, the reality is that they're doing it already so let's teach them how to do it safely! Kids race their cars. It's their nature. But these drags will give them the opportunity to do it in a controlled setting. And hopefully they'll realize that that is the best place to do it. It was only a few years ago that I was in high school, and party to a few late night street drags (albeit I never raced myself). Growing up, my dad was a high school auto shop teacher and had one of the winningest school drag teams in the Portland area. The program was shut down a few years before I hit high school though, and I was very disappointed that my classmates and I never had the opportunity to participate. I'm very glad to here something similar has been started up again!

I live 20 minutes from the boarder and work retail, so all day long I hear about how much cheaper gas and everything else is here. But as a college student (and simply as an American and traditionally paying lower prices) this gas situation is putting a squeeze on things.

The timing of this thread is great, as I have just done my first MPG test with my 240. My exhaust smells very strongly of fuel, and I just replaced my leaking fuel pump so I figured it was about time. I've found that I get about 12-13 mpg. My driving is both city and highway split about 40/60 and I'd say my driving style is "spirited." Until this thread, I thought that was pretty bad, but I guess it's okay. I do need to lean out the mixture I think. BTW, gas up here is now $3.80/gallon regular.

So my driver's side door spring just popped out of place and bent the hell out of the hinge assembly that it's attached to. Does anyone have a spare lower drivers door hinge? I've got a '70 if it makes any difference. Please let me know ASAP! Please check your parts cars! I'll pay right away with expedited shipping. PM me!

That's a great looking example btw, shame you've gotta lose her.

Every few years there is talk of De Lorean starting up again, and someone releasing the successor to the DMC-12. It gets a few headlines, some interesting renderings or sketches are published and then you don't hear about it again for a few years. I wouldn't put money on a DMC revival.

Well you live in the right part of the country if you're shopping. Lot's of 'em over here on the WC. First you should be checking all the Washington craigslists. If you see one you like, ask the member what they think. Everyone tends to be on the critical side here, but better safe than sorry! Welcome!

Hey Dave, I never mentioned this, but thought you'd like to know. Apparently the under-dash wire jiggling you did to get my gauge lights working had the benefit of powering my clock as well. Now it runs like new! Who'd have guessed, a working Datsun clock!

Glad to see there was a good turnout! I hate that I missed it. BTW, here's a little fact. I decided to buy my Z after going up to BC to check out that yellow Dime. I was torn between the two, and seeing the work that it needed sealed the deal on my Z. I had my heart pretty set on a 510, but now I'm very happy with my choice.

Just look up threads by "Kats" and you'll see a #1!

I'm not sure about their value, but you need to be careful if they are magnesium. Magnesium is highly flammable, and that's the main reason they were banned in racing. They're also vulnerable to corrosion, even from the rain so you've got to keep an eye on them regularly. That doesn't mean I wouldn't get them if I had a deal on 'em.

If you do decide to modify it, be sure not to do anything too drastic. It could be a great resto candidate at a later date.

It's needed to properly seal the gasket. I used basic engine "blue" silicone. There are a few different forms, like "high heat," but blue works just as well.

I just replaced mine two weekends ago. It's the first time it's been replaced, but my engine only has 65k on it. The bearing was obviously going out. Once I got it off, most of the bolts were considerably rusted. And the old gasket was ridiculously difficult to get off. Let me tell you, it is not something you want to do on the roadside! It is a PITA. You've gotta drain the coolant, and bend over the block for a good while. Yes, there's a gasket. But it usually comes in the box with the pump. Be sure you bring silicone sealant with you if you decide not to change it pre-trip. Unless it's not obviously bad right now, it's not something I think I would worry about right now. Have you had any concerns about cooling recently? Any signs it's been running hot?

I'm not sure if 280's were the same, but I'll tell you how you know with a 240. There should be 2 ID plates, one on the driver's door sill, and one on the passenger wheel well in the engine bay. Those two would have all most of the info you are asking about (Build date, original engine number...). Along with those, the "VIN" would be stamped on the dash, and there was a sticker on the front cross member (right in front of the radiator cap) that would say your original paint code. Sounds like your ID plates are gone, so finding out the original engine won't be possible. If the paint sticker is gone as well, theres no way to know other than digging into your paint possibly. So you might just be SOL. Try http://www.zhome.com to check and see if it's been registered there though.