rebelgt

my insurance is straight blue book so i cant do anything and the cars defanitly dun probably no salvage parts even i attached 2 pics

my car insurance bases pay off on blue book and they wont give me more we didnt have homeowners so unless they prove and find the arsonist its all i can get... thanks but i already tried that... it pissed me off i redid everything in that car in the 3 1/2 years i had it half the wires were brand new

yeah from what i have heard its gone completely like gas tank blew...im working on pics but i have to wait til tomorrow morning when the fire inspector clears my grandfather and mom to go look at it... m mom will send me pics.. im in colledge in ohio so i wont be able to see it till the 23rd or so in person... yeah im glad my grampa is ok but his house got burnt out and its a good 40 yrds from the barn and my z was not 10 yrds from the barn...

yeah only but there only giving me $500. but my grandpa is giving me like $4500 sice i had that mutch into mine. i doubt ill be able to go to idaho though. thanks for the response. i might get more to they think it was arson.

i had a 78 280z that was destroyed last night when my grandads barn burt to the ground. Im looking to buy another s30 z. in central New Jersey or Ohio. if you know of one in the area please let me know i have looked through craigslist and found some. any help is mutch apreciated. thanks in advance Eli

i just found out the engine is from a 79zx and n47 heads are there any bad details about these heads? are the chamber sizes the same? also would flatop pistons work with that block and head combonation? thanks for the info im going to see it next week. thanks for the information on pricing.

What would a good price for a 280z n42 engine with manifolds and everyithing still ona and a 4 speed trans? i am looking to buy one to build and found a set for $200... is that a fair price i havent really looked into buying one till recently. any help is mutch apreciated thanks in advance, rebelgt

Ok well, my highschool is having a car show on the 13th of june we are hosting it for our highschool auto club where we are making a 1978 chevy monza into a drag car, there is a 10 dollar registration fee if you pre register and 15 day of, there are car classes,trophies are nothing special but its cool to have, there is also most rust class please please get as many people as you can all cars are welcome car show will be at the hopewell valley central highschool in pennington NJ across from the pennington quality market Hopewell Valley Central High School 259 Pennington-Titusville Road Pennington, NJ 08534 I am a senior and a member of the automotive enthusiast club Registration forms are here http://www.hvrsd.org/chs/home/...g.pdf Modified by mrbatavus at 12:38 PM 4-29-2009

dose anyone know how to get the shift lever to ride in the shift rod en blocks on a 5 speed? i have been having a little trouble installing my extension housing. its a 78 280z manufactured in may of 78.

im not a trans expert but it may be the 5th and reverse shift rod or prssibly a syncronizer. did u disasemble the trans and replace the seals? if it sat that long you may have bad seals.

i got a used tranmission for $500 at a junkyard it had to be shipped up from florida.

i cant get a picture for a few days. if u have an fsm it is at the end of the 1st and 2nd gear shift rod. its not the shift fork.

Its not the roll pin its the peice that the roll pin holds on. its a cylindrical peice with pegs coming off one side. dose anyone know where to get one or have one they could sell me?

hey i blead the system again and it still will stall in reverse wont go in 3rd or 4th and goes foreward in nuetral i just started pulling the trans.

i just replace the slave cylinder and blead the system. the trans wont go into 3rd or 4th anymore. and the shifter is hard to move

the car runs in 2nd, 3rd, 4th ,5th. not sure why its stalling but no matter how much throttle u give it it stalls if u dont engage the clutch or bring it out of reverse. it gose into gears alittle hard and its a littile stiff in nuetral.

i Have a 78 280z with a 5 speed. the the car stalls and dosnt move in Reverse and it moves forward in nuetral. im pulling the trans tomorrow dose anyone have any idea what is wrong? also can i put a 4 speed trans in instead and if so what type of modifucations will i have to make? thanks in advance.

i found a cupling at the magnet valve that leaked when the hose was in the right way (the same way as when the vacuum tank is connected)i replaced it and the vacuum is at 19psi at the valve. the valve is working soall i have to do is put back the valve and see if the heat work. thanks for the suggestion.

I have a 78 280z with no heat i tracked it down to the vacuum water ****. i have found that the vacuum is only sufficient to open the valve part of the way. i back tracked the vacuum lines to the Vacuum tank and cant find any leaky connections or hoses i checked my vacuum tank as well and it holds vacuum. i am not sure where to look next. any input would be very much appreciated.

i am using an after market 180 degree thermostat, what about the coolant reservoir.

i also changed the radiator cap

i managed to to talk to an old nissan tech from the late 70s and early 80s he said to pull my thermostat again and boil it again see if its stuck shut from the flush or from goop.i checked all my hoses and there not leaking i even replaced some of them. thanks or the help.

The pressure in the cooling system of my 78 280z is very low (judging on the upper and lower radiator hoses) but, the car doesn't overheat i Have run the car for over an hour an the temperature doesn't even go much past the halfway point on the gauge. I just replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and upper and lower radiator hoses. I have checked the belt and it is at the FSM specified tension and flushed the cooling system. Dose anyone have any ideas as to what could be the cause of this? Is the presure suposed to be that low?

My heat is broken on my 78 280z. I thought it was the valve on the outlet from the heater core at the water pump. I pulled the vacuum line and antifreeze poured out of the line. This doesn't seem right to me. Should I replace the valve? If not, does anyone have any thought as to what I should do next? what could be causing the vacuum line to be sucking up the coolant?

thats great...