iufan993

OK I get it. I just brushed and cleaned all of the starter terminals and wires to keep gremlins away.

Dunno. Only 2 wires attach directly to the + battery terminal. One is this one, and the other goes to the starter.

Red wire with black sheath

The battery terminals were fine, but this spade connector on the positive side near the firewall was corroded. Problem solved.

1975. Battery terminals spotless

First time problem. When key goes to accessory position, everything seems to work: radio, interior lights, Interior fan. When I switch to “on” position, all interior lights dim. When I turn the key to the right, The starter never attempts to turn over and all electrical except for the clock shuts off immediately. If I remove the key for about a minute, I can put the key back in and have the same accessory position items powered up. Of note, even in the accessory position, if I draw an amp load (for example the power antenna or turning the fan up) everything will shut down again for a couple of minutes. It’s like anytime I apply an electrical load a breaker is breaking and then resetting. In my experience, this would always seem like a ground issue. The battery is new and all wires tight. I have 15.9 amps at the starter solenoid. Is this just a typical issue for the ignition switch, or is this more likely to be in the fuse relays? I assume the “on” position powers the ECU and the fuel pump, but I feel like any load in the system, no matter what position the key is in, will shut everything down.

I have a very original '77Z with 45,000 miles. When I first got it about 5 years ago, I took everything off the engine, and sort of "cleaned it with a toothbrush" and replaced most worn out wires, leaving the original connectors. I did rebuild the fuel rail, and replaced the injectors, plugs, wires, and fuel and vacuum hoses, new fuel pump and drained the gas tank. Put headers on it and it has run like clockwork, seemingly timed perfectly. I take it down the road about once a month. Last week, when I started it, I immediately noticed it to be misfiring. It started right up, and I took it down the road, misfiring 90% of the time, unless I was WOT 4000rpm or so, and it would seem to run well for a few seconds only. 3 weeks prior, it had run perfectly. I put new gas in, and replaced all of the plugs and plug wires, checked to make shure all wires had spark, but same result. The old plugs looked like the car may have been running a little lean, with the exception of plug 4, which did not. In this old car, any ideas about the most common culprit? All sensors are original. I have the fuel injection "bible," but I wanted to float it here first.

When you buy a car, immediately set a limit on what you can afford, and then set your restoration goals. I try to approach everything by net value. If I can buy a car, work on it for 12 months, sell it, and end up $5000 or less in the hole, then I will do it. I have done a few "refreshening" projects and am currently in the middle of a complete restoration as well. Unfortunately I have done completely different cars, so that each new project is completely unfamiliar and takes me forever. For example, the current 3 cars -- a 1967 Lincoln, 1967 Nova, and 1975 280z. The "Z" is just a refresh. I bought my "Z" for $8000. I will probably have $18000 when I am done, and I hope to sell it for about $13000. I can do most of the work myself, except for paint and body. The Nova restoration will cost around $60K and I hope to sell it for $50-55K. If I can have a hobby that costs me $5000 - $10000 per year, then it works financially for me, but anything more I consider too expensive. When money runs tight, I just slow down or work on one car at a time. If I am lucky, I might end up even on a couple of cars, but it hasn't happened yet. This is one hobby that gives a good sense of accomplishment in the end. You just have to be willing to sell it. Concours restorations require a completely different mentality, and you must really enjoy showing the cars because of the cost involved. Just my 2c on how I approched my first "Z" purchase.

Sorry about the quality of the photos. Camera phone, no flash. But this is the final exhaust. Described as above. Pilot Resonator tip, and I painted the couplings with high-heat silver so they would match the "aluminized" exhaust. Sounds close to stock at idle, but much louder above 2500 RPM. I will record it and post media file...

I have had a little bit of an education with the MSA 6-1 system. Once I got everything secure, I installed a Borla S-type round muffler. It was expensive, and when I started the car I thought it was a Civic. I hated the sound. Too high-pitched and loud. I went back to the Dynomax muffler that came with the car and thought it sounded good, but better without the tip extension. Problem was an interior-buzzing drone between 3000-4000 rpm. After looking for awhile, I got a 2.5 in Vibrant Performance resonator from www.verociousmotorsports.com The workmanship on this piece is amazing (like 10x better than the Borla), and it solved the drone. Of course this needed to be cut and welded in, so so much for the bolt-on stuff. I am still looking for a tip extension that I like, and I will need to paint the muffler black because I can't stand looking at it. I will post pictures, websites and recordings when I am happy with it.

from a recent ebay listing

I have a '75 and I didn't know how long it had been sitting. I drained gas tank, replaced all hoses to and from fuel pump, replaced all fuel injection hoses, fuel injectors, fuel filter, and wire harnesses to the injectors. It started right up after work complete and it took me evenings for about 2 weeks to do it. Parts cost was $250-$300 total. (the tank was clean without rust or gunk so it was left in place). Unfortunately the brake fluid looks like it has been there since '75. Will need to flush brakes and radiator, then just drive it a while and see what needs to be done next. I may just go ahead with the disc brake conversion at that time...

I installed the MSA 6-1 CH header this weekend. Everything went relatively well, considering this is the first time I have really worked on these cars. Replaced all fuel lines, fuel injectors, and injector harnesses at the same time. I guess it took me 12 hours total. The header fit very well. The gasket which came from MSA was damaged and old, so I bought a new Felpro gasket. It should be noted that the header must be installed from ABOVE, not from below, and that it should be hung on the block first, followed by the intake manifold. This knowledge would have saved me some time. ( I removed the stock exhaust from below before removing the intake). The stock washers and bolts fit well with the header. Mine had no warping. I elected not to replace the heat shield because in theory the header should not get as not as the stock iron exhaust. Does anyone think this will lead to vapor lock? I could replace the shield, but it wouldn't be as pretty.

Thanks to all for the comments. I live on Johns Island. Very new to the Z thing and although I have always been a car guy, I know nothing about these cars. The blue paint had absolutely no overspray, and it looks like Imron to I thought it was original. Oh well. I have driven the car for 200 miles just to sort things out, and the clock started working! But it is now time to start the modifications...

I am posting pics of my newly purchased '75 280z. I will admit not knowing much about z cars, but I have read a lot this weekend on the forum. It is an original 43K mile car and as far as I can tell, it has the original spark plugs. There are 4 work orders in the records. New fuel pump in 1991, new clutch plate in 1999, new distributor in 2001, and new muffler and exhaust pipe this year. It is a 2 owner car, and everything except the clock works. The A/C blows very cold. Exterior had one rust spot on the kick panel driver's side which was repaired and repainted. Otherwise, the paint is supposed to be original. No rust currently. I posted a lot of pictures. If there is anything obviously not original or out of place in the engine bay, please let me know. My initial thought was to replace the worn suspension bits, add exhaust headers, and new 16 in wheels -- plus maybe a cold air intake and new throttle body and call it a day. Other option is to just leave it as original as possible. What do you think?