chicago240z

thanks jon have it, I just wanted some real world input from people who have used both the e31 and early e88 to race 240s

Hi, All I was hoping to get some ideas of what some others are using for 240z race cars in the trans diff dept. is a 4 speed better all around than a close ratio five speed and what diff gearing works the best, my friend bought a 240z gt2 car that runs a truck 5 speed and the 4.3 gearing in a r180, can I use the r200 lsd and cv joints?

Hi All, any one that races I am building a 240z to race in vintage class, I was lucky to get a stage 5 according to msa chart but its the scnheider 300f good for 4-8,250k rpm and all the goodies, what head with porting/valve change will give me the best performance i have every model the e31 early 71-72 e88 and the 73-74e88 since i scored on the camshaft i can throw a few more dollars at a head job,I also scored by trading my room mate for a new set of 44 mikunis never run so thats what will be fueling this set up Thanks for any input, from what ive read, so much to read,the e31 or early e88 sounds good but i'd like some real world input or ideas

I have a nos speedo and cant figure out what year it goes to the posts i have found were somewhat helpful but the one i have wasnt mentioned it is a speed that starts at 10 and has km in smaller light blue lettering and goes to 160 the main harness on it has 8 prongs and numbers on it they are11660-aj5000 then f-7-2 Thanks

Ok the race prepped car is going by S.V.R.A. rules it will be SCCA prepped also lets just leave that out then itll be built for one purpose. All I was aking is can a stroker motor be used L28 bored to 3.1, 3.2 or would that put me into a more modified class? its my understanding of the rules that I can use any of the L series blocks since they group the 240,260,280 into one group. Im not wanting to go that route if I was id put a vq35 in that I have or a v8 Thanks for any help

Hi All, What I have is a 240z and well 2, 240z one is being built to race vintage and the other is my street car. I would like to start autoxing the street car from what I understand in the rules I can use any of the L blocks but if I went to turbo, it would put me into the next higher class. Can I use a stroker motor? or am i limited to the stock sized l28. Coluld the race car be used?or is it too built for standard class in autox? I've read somewhere that full interiors are needed Thanks for any help

Has any one gotten their trophys in the mail from the convention yet?? im still waiting I am surprised there were alot, well a few restored perfect 240's there as well as what was it car 14 there

Thanks David, the side markers had wrong watts also p.o. was more of an idiot than me getting new lights in a few and putting new fuse panel in not the msa upgrade though have to get it fixed this a.m. going to widespread panic next two nights ill also regroung the fuse panel Thanks again, Andy

like I said Dave Im not the electrician it was the parking lights not the brake but the brake solinoid thing felt bad so it was replaced, i'll be running grounds to the brakes anyways there is no ground there. since a couple were 1156, would the extra load cause the overheating in the lights? do I need to change/check all the running lights as well?

Larry should all the lights be 1157 for the 2 pronged ones what are the single ones? I had a 1156 on one of the sides do the 1157 replace the 1073 the book says to use?

I have your parking light kit to get brighter running lights and dash lights would this help, yeah I know I still havent installed it, , electrcal isnt my strong point David I have a guy coming over who knows how to check with the amperage tool/grounding so far i cleaned out the light terminals they were crusty inside, the spare set of lights dont mesh with the 73 240 they were a 70-71 I will go check for that wire you mentioned Larry I will check it, funny I just took one of those out of a parts car larry are the bulbs the same size? Thanks guys

Hello All, went and got a laser alignment the other day on my 73 240z got my car back and since they need to suppress the brakes, the fuse over heated and melted a hole in the fuse area on the hot side, I took off the rear panel to look at the brake lights which were all just replaced on the right(passeneger) light are notes jotted on housing looking to be good grng bad ground my question is do each of the brake lights have there own ground? would tying into ground and regrounding to frame help? would grounding the fuse panel more help? I didnt have this problem till after I had the alignment or maybe I did but it revealed itself after that I have another perect fuse panel and another ste of brake lights to put in but dont want the same thing to happen to it ,if it is a problem.going to go buy a voltage tester today Thanks Andy

Thanks for some input, I will offer him to bring it back to my house and give him refund, I cannot give him money back It took me a while to get it out and deliver it so I basically sold it for 60 bucks and 20 towards delivery, feel bad I didnt know it was supposedly a 160, looked like a 180, this is what you get when you go out of your way to try and help someone, he needed some parts for his 510 rally car I knew I had in a parts car Im on disability and this definately wasnt worth the time or pain oh well lessen learned Thanks all

I need an answer to my problem? first the problem, I sold a differential from a 1972 240z with automatic trans under the impression it was an r180 for 80 bucks delivered to milwaukee 40 miles from my house fair price right?his buddy met me to pick it up there,now hes telling me that it is a r160 diff and wants money back because according to him they are worth far less than 80? does a r160 even fit in a 240z with automatic? it was from a parts car but i cant see why the p.o. would have used this if possible the diff looked like a r180 wish I took pics of it Thanks all

thx what page did you find it on?