Force Fed

It cost me 108 bucks to ship a 833 4-spd out of a Dodge truck from SC to TX via UPS, which I think weighs a bit more than a 240 4-spd. Just to give you a ballpark on what it might cost to ship, I think OR to TX is a little farther.

The OP's springs have waaaay more coils touching together than I've ever seen any progressive springs have. I think they are either worn or someone heated them to drop it, probably they didn't know that springs have to settle. I can't see the suspension dropping far in normal road driving to un-bind even half of those coils.

Yeah, well I coulda got the 280 ones for like 50 or less for the pair I really could just buy the patch panels from Black Dragon (I think is the name) and fix mine, as it's just the lower portion that's bad. Be nice to snag a nice set though.

Doh :knockedou I thought so. Oh well, on the hunt again.

So it looks like all the Z bodies will interchange, what about the 280ZX? I could use 2 fenders for my 240, and I know where a 280ZX is in a junkyard.

I don't like it, lights are ugly, lines are all wrong and angly.

Mine does the same, I think I need different needles, probably SM's. I've tried doing all kinds of adjusting but it doesn't really help, the metering just isn't right w/ stock L24 needles.

Well, there's really no need to buy new valves, as long as the old ones are in spec and can have a 3-angle valve job done w/ no problems. Same w/ the valve springs, as long as they check out they will work fine, although a nice set of new, matched springs would be much better. However I don't see it being a problem on a stock rebuild. Definitely have the valve guides and seals replaced. Boring, kinda depends on the mileage, sometimes you can get away w/ just honing and re-ringing, needs to be properly checked though. If the bores are more than .005" out of round or worn out, the rings may not seat properly, piston slap can occur, etc. I've had good luck w/ my Chrysler 4-cyl's just honing and re-ringing, not sure if it's the way the blocks are, or if inline engines in general wear well. Also don't forget to have the crank checked and the rods checked and re-sized as necessary So, a cheap rebuild could be done by yourself for probably a grand or less. A full rebuild, replacing everything w/ new parts whether they are needed or not, I'm sure can get very expensive. Having someone do the work also adds in labor costs.

Will do, thanks for the reminder

Well, I finished resetting the valve lash yesterday, cranked it up and it seems fine now. I cranked it up and didn't rev it much until it got a little heat in it, but it did good, no clacking from the valve cover at least We'll see how it does, it's a long way from being on the road so if it continues to mess up, not a big deal, I'll just pull the head.

Blah, I was hoping to not have to pull the head, but everything seems to be pointing that way Oh well, at least it's easy to pull, or at least looks that way.

Nope, still has both sides.

Well the rocker arm was still on, but the lash pad had popped out again. Put it back on and started to adjust the lash (searched and found the settings, .010 Int .012 Ex), but the rain stopped me at #2 exhaust valve So far they've only been out a little. The valve seems to pop back up pretty quick on #2 int (the one that keeps messing up), but I didn't push it down very far, just enough to get the lash cap back on. Edit: Thanks Nissanman, I was setting them cold w/ the hot settings Your post wasn't up when I starting posting, I'll change the lash settings when I work on it again.

Yeah the springs are still all there, the rocker was actually still held onto the pivot, it had just hopped off the lash pad and skipped off to the side, and jammed between the valve springs. The car did sit for about 8 years before I got it, and the guy I got it from got it from a kid who apparently had no idea what he was doing. So who knows what the lash is at, I know they are not all right. What are the lash settings for these? I'm gonna pull the vc off again hopefully today and see if it's popped off again, or if it's another one, or maybe it's just way out of adjustment when cold. I did buy a set of skinny motorcycle feeler gauges yesterday to use on it, as I think the rocker tips are kinda narrow, right? Ran into that problem when trying to set the valves in my Tercel

Found #2 had 0 compression the other day, pulled the valve cover to look at the valve train and a rocker arm had popped off and was apparently causing both valves to open together. Stuck it back on and check a few others to see how much lash there was. Most had a hair of play, couple more than the rest, but the one that had popped off didn't seem to have any play, I could wiggle it at all by hand. Checked compression again, got 180 psi (as do all the other cylinders). Cranked it up and it ran pretty good, no valvetrain noise. Started it today a while ago, and not there is a distinct tap coming from the valve cover again. It's kinda intermittent but ticks more than it's quiet. Seems to have a skip again too, so I suspect that rocker has again come off. Would the lash being set too tight cause it to pop off easier? Or is the rocker arm or lash pad worn out maybe? I don't see it being a seat dropped out or sticking valve, as I wouldn't have good compression if that had happened. It is an N47 head, if it makes any difference. I forgot to really look at it, would it have solid or hyd lifters? It's on an F54 block in my 240Z.

I was about to say, Clifford is still in business, but if you say you called them and they said no go, then you're out of luck. Unless you get a dual-outlet header and have a good exhaust shop copy it, as mentioned.

Excuse the condition of the car but here's what mine has, I like this better than the others that have been posted. There are also some that look like this with foglight/air duct holes.

Figured it was better to add to this thread than start another one... How do you move that spindle? Does the timing cover have to come off, or just the dizzy housing? I may need to do the same thing on my N47/F54 L28. Right now with the rotor pointing at the radiator the timing mark is at the 7:30 position. Course someone also conveniently left the timing tab off too

Wow, that is horrible :sick:

Chevy engines are the same, they run bad when they get an exhaust leak.

, dude that's exactly how I did mine the other night, all the while saying to myself "I bet they would at me if they knew I did it this way BTW what is the best way to bend the tab w/o messing up the float? I think one of my floats is cocked upwards a bit from being bent (PO, not me). I slid a screwdriver shank under the metal bracket, in between it and the float, so I could bend the tab w/o pushing/ripping the bracket out of the foam float. I set mine by blowing through the hose and seeing where the air flow stopped coming through, since my one float is messed up and set properly is too high.

Float level isn't right, I just fought this same problem w/ my '72 for hours the other day

I think it's more a question of balancing the flow through the engine, than it is about pressures. Too much flow on one side or the other of the cylinder can cause problems or inefficiency.

The resistor is bypassed during cranking to supply better spark at start up. Chryslers used the same system for years, with both points and electronic ignition. The resistor is there for both the coil and the points, I'm sure. If you look at the coil they are usually marked "for use with external resistor only" if they are made to run low voltage. Some of the newer coils don't need the resistor and can handle full 12 volts.

Cold air meets hot valve Sorta like pouring cold water onto a hot pan, cools too quick and warps.