Force Fed

BMW always pops into my head whenever someone mentions Euro-tone exhaust: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/BMWPowerhu-Motorsport_62051.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/BMW-M3-E30-with-M5tech_86045.htm

Weak fuel pump maybe?

Sounds right, my '72 is the same. They use electrical sending units, which are usually slower to respond than a mechanical gauge. 10 psi at idle is plenty, and probably about what most used engines have, so a 1/4 gauge is normal.

Sounds like not enough timing or a carb problem.

Sounds like you're looking for more of a Gunmetal color, rather than a Silver. Car looks great, Mriz.

I'm sure most here won't care, considering it is at least still a Nissan engine Sounds like a good project.

Carbs might not have the right needles.

Too high of an idle, or a engine that's running hot will do that.

Yes, if the points are bad, you will not get spark. The points are the trigger, if they don't work they will not trigger the coil to fire.

Header and full exhaust, bump the timing a bit.

Welcome, nice car. Looks like someone did a nice job of melding the spoiler to the car.

Just to be sure of what you are saying: The single wire running from the distributor is connected to the - terminal of the coil, and the coil + terminal has power to it w/ the switch on? It's points, so there's only so many things that it can be. My thought is that the points are bad or dirty, or not adjusted right. With the cap off, have someone turn it over while you watch the points. They should open just enough to break contact. I think like somewhere around .016-.018" is the correct setting, at least on most points-type ignitions I've dealt with. If they don't open, re-adjust them so they do. If they do, but there's no spark, try filing both sides of the points where they make contact, sometimes they get a build-up of corrosion that prevent spark from going through. If that doesn't work, than either the condenser or the points themselves are bad, or both. Usually they get replaced as a set.

Transmission fluid takes more heat and holds up better. At least that's what I've been told, I've always run it in all my cars w/ power steering w/ no problems.

I see a Dodge 600 vert! Lotta good Z parts there, swipe me a pass quarter panel while you're at it

Wow, I can't believe that thread is still making the rounds .

Our Fwd Mopar club went there once a year or two ago, definitely a sweet road to run but you are right, you could lose it real quick if not paying attention. On the Cherohala, one of the SRT-4 guys almost set his rear brakes on fire after a hard braking into a corner. The cops weren't too bad, there were 4 cars and 2 bikes on the Dragon, but is was also the weekend that the S2000 forums had their meet, so I'm sure they beefed up the patrols. I have read that they were cracking down a bit harded lately though.

If you had a hole in the piston, it would be pretty obvious, it'd skip bad and and have a lot of blowby (pressure in the crankcase) and probably smoke too.

Wow, just clicked the link and saw the $210 price tag. I guess there more to them than I thought there was at a quick glance. So disregard my $40 comment $210 is a lot more than I would pay for those though, even knowing there's a lot of work in them. I'd maybe pay $100, I'd need to see them on a car though first.

I don't see why those wouldn't be worth $40 a pair, or thereabouts.

Has an "Electric Supercharged" sign on it, that's enough to make me groan Points for being different though.

Why don't you try another battery? Or put some jumper cables to it?

Yeah I started to say the breaking up might be fueling issues, one of the needles is a little bent up from a previous owner sticking a screwdriver or something in there I PM'd Bruce about what needles I might need. I'm just trying to get the timing in the ballpark, cause I think that's needed to properly adjust the carbs. Is the crank pulley mark supposed to point downwards?

Yeah it's the original '72 dizzy I think. Basically, the car has had a 2.8 longblock dropped in it and all the 240 stuff bolted back on it. So yeah, I don't think I'm going to find a happy setting w/ the current parts. I'm just trying to get it running decent, set timing, adjust the carbs, etc etc. Basically just get it to start up and drive everyday w/ no tuning problems. I have it pretty decent now, but it sounds like it breaks up on top (about 4500-5k) a little. Also, the engine has no timing tab that I can see, and the only mark on the balancer is pointing down towards the passenger side when at TDC. So I'm kinda having to set it by ear. From the amount I turned the dizzy to make it rev good and not spit back through the carbs, it's probably at about 15* now.

Oh sorry, forgot that. Stock (I assume) SU carbs, intakes, and points distributor.

What would be a good baseline setting for a F54 block w/ an N47 head?