Force Fed

Just checked, it is an F54 block w/ an N47 head.

My favorite Euro sounds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foDcLUhUKqI&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFoE_ni4xE0&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vObHM3ndIBM

Ahh I see, sorry I've been a bit tired lately. I'll double check the float levels and such, although I set them according to the paper that came with the kit.

I'm pretty sure I got them set right. I'm gonna try and get a manual to look at, might get a pic too just so you know exactly what I'm looking at. I don't really know the proper names of all the carb parts yet

From around the fuel nozzle, where it goes into the carb body. On both carbs.

I know it's lean I doubt if there's enough adjustment in the nozzles, I have to have the choke lever pulled fully on for it to run properly. So, I'd have to have the nozzle adjuster nut screwed damn nearly off to get close. My first order of business is to make sure whether I have a 2.4 or 2.8, as I'm sure that will make a difference in what needles I need.

Pretty decent 280, good luck w/ it.

Thanks guys, I'll try your suggestions. I never even thought about raising the needles a bit, just set them flush. Basically, if the cold start isn't on it'll idle but when you try to rev it it spits back through the carbs, if you ease it up it'll rev up but you can hear it skipping and missing. With the cold start on, it sounds great. SM needles are the British needles right? I'll check out the carb tuning stuff on here. Beandip, are you running a 2.8? I'm gonna look today for my block numbers.

Sorry, yes they are round-tops. And I don't mean the vacuum piston that the needles mount in, I mean the plunger deal that goes into the bottom, where the fuel comes in. It's connected to the choke lever, when you pull the choke these move downwards to richen the mixture. And thanks for the info on the manual and Ztherapy.

Is there supposed to be an o-ring on the cold start jets (or whatever they're called, the piston that moves down that the needle goes into)? I saw a groove in them when I built the carbs, and picked some crap out of them, or at least I thought it was crap But they seem to be seeping fuel, so I'm thinking that maybe the crap was 30-year old o-rings gone rotten from sitting.

Yeah even when it warms up it runs rough if the choke/cold start isn't fully on. Pull it on all the way and it'll rev like a banshee, sounds great. What number do I need to look for on the block to see what engine it is? I looked once couldn't find anything I recognized from searching on here. Although I am still a noob on these cars I just bought a new slave and clutch hose on ebay for it, so I should be able to drive it around some soon.

Actually got it running a month or so ago, just now getting around to posting From what I can tell, it has a complete '81 or '82 2.8 long block (not a 2.8 short block and 240 head as it was supposed to have, but oh well) w/ stock SU's bolted on it. Runs great, as long as the cold start lever is pulled all the way on Needs richer needles, which ones should I get you think? I remember reading that there were only like 2 needles that work good on 2.8's, one of them being a British SU needle. The head has N47, which I believe is a '81 or '82 Maxima head, and therefore probably the whole engine. It does have a 3-2-1 header on it. BTW this is in my '72 240Z 4-spd.

Damn dude, I thought it was for real good one.

Finally had a chance to mess with it again the other day. Since the battery cables are shot, I hooked the jumper cables from my car straight to the starter, sprayed some starting fluid in both carbs, spun it over and vroom! fired right up and ran a few secs. Did it again and same thing, sounds good, no knocking or rattling, no smoke. Now that the Belvedere left for it's new home today, I can bring the 240 up to the house and start going over it to get it running and driving on it's own. Needs fuel lines cleaned out, fuel hose replaced, make sure the rad holds pressure and put coolant in it, make sure the tank is clean etc. Yay for new projects

Cool, thanks. BTW that was a cool Daytona you had/have, I remember looking at it a few years ago. Wasn't it like an '85 or '86? Used a T1 intake?

Did some searching but can't seem to find any specifics. Is there an FAQ, archived thread, website etc that lists all the L-series heads and the specs on each of them? I'm looking for stuff like chamber cc, valve size, chamber design, port sizes and design, etc. The 240Z I bought was supposed to have an L28 bottom end and the original 240Z head, but after looking at it and searching on here, I found it has a N47 head, which seems to be a later model 280 or Maxima head?

This is a $300 dollar car http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28716

'Bout a '90-'91 Buick LeSabre w/ Hoopty wheels .

Perhaps you didn't see that

Maybe they are actually in that position, looks like the windshield is smashed on the TL.

Ah, I got it now. Thanks. So, you listen to the factory setup when you listen to radio? I would think it kinda hard to tune the one behind the seat while driving.

I just saw a Kameari VC on Ebay for like $575.

Well, the reason I was asking is because I had an idea. Probably someone else has already thought of it, but here goes. Why not make a custom intake that run the runners to different cylinders? Rather than just going down the line, so to speak. Like instead of Car 1 feeding Cyl's 1 and 2, have it feed 1 and 3 (just as an example). Would it even anything out, or just stay the same? Be a bit of a pain to engineer though. I just was thinking that if you can't change the firing order, maybe you could switch runners around or something, have each pair feed whatever cyl's would even things out. Or is the balance tube the only cure to the problem? BTW this is just theoretically speaking, not trying to purport that the triples are better than duals or whatever.

Well, the guy is definitely P-shopped, but the car position could be real Edit: Maybe not , looked closer, no way it could be. Funny though.

You need to change your Ebay password and check your account. I had a guy send me a similar message on my Ebay account a couple weeks ago about the Supra I had for sale on there, saying he was interested but he had seen the same car for sale on another site from a different seller. I followed his link, and it took me to Ebay but showed no car, just an invalid #. Apparently it was a fake Ebay site, that logs your password, because the next morning my Supra auction had been ended early and 4 more started and 2nd Chance Offers sent to the 4 original bidders. So check your Ebay account if you have one, and if it's good, see if the seller actually knows what's on his account.