Force Fed

That's a sure-fire way to burn/warp an exhaust valve

There's always a tool called a compression tester If you have good compression on all 6 and it doesn't knock, I'd say roll with it.

The older coils are made to run at low voltage, that's why the ballast resistor is there. W/o it, the stock coil will burn up.

How in the hell did your keys end up on top of the clutch??

and is that a Skyline in the Goodwill shop?? probably a Impala or something, looks like a Skyline rear at first glance. 4th pic, in the background. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1973-Datsun-240z-NO-RESERVE-09-413_W0QQitemZ330274344320QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330274344320&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Hmm, 3 revs and it's already smoking Looks pretty nice though.

In the front shop, an '86 Daytona Turbo Z I'm piecing back together after being gutted for various reasons, also a bunch of odd car parts, '66 Poly 318, various 2.2/2.5 Chrysler engines (turbo and non-turbo), grond effects for my Chargers, SB Chrysler heads and blocks, and lots of other stuff. In the back shop is my '72 240Z and my '89 Lebaron project, along w/ a whole bunch of car parts, mostly Chrysler engine parts and engines. I can actually have at least 6 cars under a roof between the two shops if they are cleaned out properly, and there is another where I keep the mower that could house a 7th in a pinch

Turbo lag is relative to turbo sizing and setup. A properly setup performance turbo engine will be nothing like the VW turbo turd you are talking about. For 300 hp, you can run a relatively small turbo to get quick spool time and still make the power. Definitely do some phoning around to the specialist shop that build these cars regularly and find out what they think the hot setup would be. The cam, turbo, head flow, exhaust etc all need to match each other to get the right results. I'd say a 300hp turbo L28 or L30 is doable w/ $6k.

Umm, maybe a noob/irrelevant question but why is it called a spook? Never heard that term for a spoiler/air dam before.

Hmm, really now? And to think I have about 6 318/360 engines laying around here...

Just rap the sides of the bowls w/ a screwdriver handle or old ratchet or something. If they are just stuck, that should loosen them.

Chrysler 2.0/2.4 4-bangers have similar issues w/ the non-damping crank pulleys, except they break the oil pump. It can happen even when not running high revs all the time (ie street use).

They are a classic rim, and they are not just popular w/ Z-cars, or even Jap cars in general. Plenty of 240SX's, RX-7's, and AE86's are rolling on those rims, as well as a lot of British cars (not Watanbes in particular but that style). I think they look good on almost anything, I'm like the others though, love to have them but can't afford them.

Bigger bearings could be referring to oversize bearings, meaning smaller diameter journals for less friction. Although that's kinda the redneck way of doing it, and oversize bearings are more prone to spinning also, I think. Still, could be possible.

Sweet ride dude. Looks to be in great shape. Nice Cougar in the first pic too I have a black one sitting in my shop right now, belongs to a friend, waiting for a 410 stroker

While we're somewhat on the topic, what is the rev limit for a stock 2.8 bottom end?

A bit off-topic, but do they make new filler necks/hoses/grommets for the 240? My 240 leaks when I put fuel in, but not afterwards. Granted it was only a few gallons I put in. I figured there was a rubber filler neck hose or connector of sorts that might be leaking.

My F54 block/N47headed 2.8 w/ SU's revs like a banshee, even with stock needles in the carbs.

Sweet, where'd you get those from? I haven't seen Ansa exhaust in a while.

Looks good, definitely needs to be lowered I like those wheels.

I'm in Spartanburg, couple hours away from you. Here's the Triangle Z Club site, not a member myself, was told about it when I got my Z. Looked them up, just never joined yet. http://www.trianglezclub.com/

What kind and size of tire? Is the steering wheel actually moving, or can you just feel vibration in it? Could be there's something in the rear causing a vibration, bad rear wheel bearing, worn rear suspension bushings, tire rubbing a strut (front or rear) due to cornering forces, etc. Did you just have the front aligned, or did they check 4-wheel alignment?

Could be a tire out of balance also.

Does anyone have the station measurements for the stock SU needles? Like the N54 or N58? None of the British SU needle charts have them listed, and I want to do some comparing, find out what British needles are the same (or as close to the same as possible) as stock Hitachi needles. Mostly just for reference. The British needles are measured at 14 different points (stations), from thickest to thinnest. Maybe someone that has a stock needle laying around can thow the calipers on it for me?

This one sounds really nice: