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Excellent link , never seen that one before . looks like Tony Orlando and Dawn had the hit, '' knock three times '' until the 7th of feb , then the Osmonds took over . Thankfully only for a short time . Although the Stones set the world a fire with Brown Sugar a short time after ! Chris

ah , My Sharona , from the album , Get the Knack , I do remember ! See mom , I told you so , brain cells do recover ! Lets have some fun Chris

Ok nostalgic minded people , when my Z was built in feb 1971 , I was 8 yrs old and the song of the day on the billboard top 100 was , The Osmonds ,One bad apple . Although I was just a kid I remember the song and i can still hear it playing on my mom's little am radio that she used to keep in the kitchen . So here is the challenge , when your Z was built do you know what was the song of the day ? let's compile a list , make a master disc and play old school to our hearts content ! BTW , I never liked the Osmonds , although Three dog night had a great hit the same year , Joy to the world , We still sing it out loud when camping late at nite .Rock on , and lets reminisce with some awesome tunes . Chris

To tell you all in quote , My 13 yr old son say's " Dad you should so do that to your Z , I would defiantly drive that around town '' it is so cool '' , end quote . Shows you how todays youth thinks ! Lmao . Chris

Hey , got to love the libra's . Mine are painted black currently , but they are to be painted graphite soon to be close to the taillight finisher's color . All 4 of mine are in excellent shape except for the pitting on the center caps . These are shelby vipers and I feel lucky to own such a set that seem to be very desirable . My teen son's think they are way small at 14 x 5.5 , but I wouldn't have it any other way ! Your AR's will look awesome any way you finish them . Chris

Morning , I wonder if your turn sigs were working while brakes were screaming at you ? How did it all work out ? Chris

Ok 1 more post , I couldn't wrap my head around our lack of mutual understanding of the process until I realized that u figure that there needs to be a hole in the shim to help guide it along .Not necessary at all , maybe a small dimple at best if it might make a difference . Mine just pushes against the spring pin with good old friction . As a side note maybe a good acid test would be to just manually test the switch with power on and push down on spring pin and slide it back and forth , unless there is a grounding issue it should engage the signals ? Don't worry we are not beating a dead horse ,we are educating the masses .Remember they said that Columbus was going to sail off the edge of the earth.That is all . Chris

I'm always inspired to reach higher in life when I see such passion in other people , love the fact to that your garage is where the work is all being done . Most excellent job ! Chris

the shim puts enough down pressure on the spring assey that is built into switch so that the contacts that are on the rocker arm ends send current to the signals . I've read elsewhere that the switch itself can be rebuilt and the contacts built higher by soldering with a high silver content solder , then lightly filed to get close to original size ,although you need micro tiny fingers to do the task ! The shim way doesn't seem to logical at first , but it worked for me ,LMAO when it did Too , and I started off with completely nothing . Try first with just one shim on the bottom to push in the spring and let your good karma carry you the rest of the way . As far as fuses , haven't got a clue , not my fortay . Chris

Thanxz Steve , My second coat went on late this afternoon and I want to do a coat of CC in the morning tomorrow ,I believe this should be about the right time frame . It's like eating a giant elephant , one little bite at a time , as my pop used to tell me ! Chris

Shims only on bushing that is in the lever assey , the switch received nothing . the crazy wiring that you see is from the po . I plugged the green yellow back into plug and the white\red splice to the green\black is what I put back to factory . You can probably see the little nub of r\w wire from back of switch that i soldered a new piece to . Fun stuff eh . Ok gotto go , Afc final on the big screen , I'll check back later Chris

Good advice Steve , I happened across another method that completely took me to bare metal in minutes . My angle grinder with a super coarse prep wheel was the ticket , then a bit of acetone to finish , no scraping at all was needed . Advice needed though , I'm following directions and have searched the P-15 site , What I need to know from you all is how soon should I top coat my second coat of P-15 with the chassis coat black that I will be applying . My shop is heated to 70 d , paints are same temp and I'm brushing as this is a inner fender well application ? Thanxz for everyones continued support in this great site . Chris

hey , just back in from shop , looks like your getting some input elsewhere , awesome ! to answer some questions ,if you look at pic # 1 you can see some one tried to bypass wires in switch . first thing I did was to put it back the way it should be , solder and heatshrink tubeing . Nothing was solved . In the dash the hazard switch toggle was broken and wouldn't engage so I replaced with a new\used toggle from a friends part car , Progress was made as now I had all 4 hazard lights flashing , success , but still couldn't get turn sigs to operate . this is where the brass shim comes in to play . I made a couple of shims and dry fit them to the bushing as you can see . I then put it all back together to see if any difference and I then had faint signals when I engaged the lever . I took it all back apart and placed 2 thicker shims around bushing hoping that I could make more down pressure to the pin assey in the turn switch .With bushing wrapped snuggly, I re-fit back into lever assey, fit into column , tried again and signals worked like the day out of the factory .Satisfied, I Pulled it apart once again and crazy glued the shims to the bushing,first one on the bottom and then the second one to the top .Then grease the rails so the bushing will slide easier , grease the rocker contacts in switch and then put it all back together for the final time and I have been driving around safe and legal since .No pinholes to keep the shims in place where required , they just float around the bushing like the happy little helpers that they are ! Just the way Mcgyver would have fixed it too. hope this helps to clear things up Cheers Chris

here she goes , the process is pretty simple . Buy some brass shim material , mine came in small sheets from ultra thin to thick . Obviously your mechanical so take apart the two switches , turn sig and high\low beam to access the turn sig lever assey and remove from steering column . turn assey over , remove split ring and carefully turn over and pull apart . don't lose the two bearings . The plastic piece that slides in the groove is worn out . Make shims to fit , I used two very thin , first one on top , second on bottom and lubed assey with die-electric grease to aid movement . If it feels ok , fit it back together and hopefully the shim will engage the rocker assey in the sig switch . I used die -grease in the switch as well applied carefully with a dental pic . I put it all back together and just like magic it worked as hoped . A miracle I'd say .forgot to mention , when satisfied with fit I crazy glued the two shims to plastic assey to hold in place .worked like a charm . I hope the pics help Good luck, sorry for the delay, finally got the attachments to post. Chris

Evening, trying to help fellow member with pics however i cannot post as i typically have in the past, is there a problem with the system, is there a problem on my end, its just not allowing me to post pictures. My techie son will understand if you're able to give me any advice. Thanks, Chris

I fixed my signal problem when i bought my Z this past summer by making a brass shim that engages the switch with more pushing pressure so as to engage the rocker arms in the turn switch . I will send another post with pic's later in the day as I'm just on my way out . This is a great fix , I'll type to you later , after 4pm pacific time . have a good day Chris

Excellent reference pic's Steve , Did you completely remove by hand all the undercoating and did the acetone dissolve the remaining film or was it all armstrong work to remove . I like your resto pic's , I refer to them quite often . Unlike your resto , mine is being done in small bite's as time is at a premium for our family , off to the dojo for Judo classes in the next 5 min's so will check when we get back . thnxz for the input guys Chris

Lip of fender looks to be in great shape , the dog leg portion has had previous repair and from all appearances they did a good job there . what I'm looking most for is can I seal right over the solid under coat with a paint type sealer of some sort ? thanxz chris

Evening , the scraping has started big time , heat gun, scrapers and solvents and I'm making headway ,however once I have the majority of the heavy tar coating off I'm left with the factory undercoat , the light brown colored thin stuff . My question is, the undercoating is still adhered very well to the inner fender wells and my intention is to recoat the wells after all the scraping is complete . I want to seal first with something like por-15 or the Eastwood equivalent , then re-do with a gravel guard or bed liner type of protection . I did a search on this and came up with some answers , but I'm looking for more input so i can be on the right track . Btw , it looks to me like the inners are in awesome shape considering this is a 71-Z , wouldn't you agree . Thanxz as always Chris

I was thinking the same thing this aft as I was removing fender emblems , what about the small holes. This seems the perfect solution as I have the necessary tools for the job including a old fender to practice with . I as well like the clean lines, mostly for when washing and waxing I won't have to deal with raised lettering .With the solder it would seem easier to revert back if I were to choose to . Great tip , thanxz Chris

Myself and my two son's were eating Pizza at a local eatery in Coquitlam after watching the Mann cup lacrosse championships last Sept . I was floored when we saw this most excellent tribute to the greatest cars ever built , unfortunately my Z was parked at home on that evening as my younger son decided to join big brother and me to the game that night . Although we were at least driving the Pathfinder so Nissan was in the mood for us . Great commercial , EH . Chris

Evening all , I'm curious as to the purchase cost of floor pans from Charlie , I believe he is in Canada isn't he ? As well what should one expect a professional welder to charge for such services ? I see as well that por-15 has a product advertised in their catalog called power mesh reinforcing fabric that they advertise to repair holes for 7.25 a sq yd , or a complete kit for floor pan repair , including many of their products to do your own home repair , Part #fptrk for 138.50 . Has anybody used this kit and are you happy with the results ? .Also doe's anyone Know of a retailer In Washington State That stocks the Por-15 line ? Many questions tonight . Thanxz Chris

I bought my car from a minister so no weed , Although this is BC so anything could happen , but there was some old very cool Raybans sunglasses . My day was made when I tried them on . Chris

I'm thinking along the lines that Full house is rather empty house with nothing going on but sarcasm , babbled through the lips of a fool . May his longing for a relationship with someone only be superseded by his desire to type something intelligent . And I'm not trying to be gentlemanly ether . happy new year all Chris

Welcome aboard Chris