gogriz91

Fuel to the fire, right hand drive too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8uuuBOWI6Q Neat old footage of G-nose race Zs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZe0BcsUyuk&list=PL2425F0B0807477AF&index=2

I've got one on order, thanks for the lead.

Thats what I was wondering myself, is the stud still there. I don't think it is because the adapter bolts on to the block and I don't have a stud readily available..

I've got a factory remote oil cooler from a ZX turbo on my Z but one of the fittings between the mount and the radiator is leaking so I need to remove it and repair it. I didn't mount it on the car and am curious if the threaded fitting on the block is still there so I can remove all of the oil cooler components and just screw the oil filter back on to the block or was it removed to put the remote mount on. Any help would be appreciated.

I live in the South and got a 280ZX external oil cooler as insurance on a setup similar to yours plus an aluminum radiator. Not sure which pulled the temp down more but I figure its insurance against the heat of the Summer.

There were a bunch of Zs running, I wonder what happened to all of those cars, not just the ones that were featured?

Backup to a cloud type storage or hard drives at work stations?

Is this Ron Carter's old car?

Download ghostery, it keeps ad content down and you can customize what gets blocked.

I read some posts about Ford valve seals on HybridZ, maybe that's what this is.

Race prepped '70 240Z prepared by the late John Williams. Posting this link with the consent of the seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/252155356652?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3ab5a165ec:g:CO0AAOSwAYtWONnC&item=252155356652

Ordered the 6 into 1 header and an exhaust system, all bubble wrapped, one 2 in gash in one of the boxes, stuff was intact, never had a problem with MSA.

Bought a set of 44s from him two years ago, he was in the process of moving from NY to VA and was excited about living in the country. Really a sad loss for his family and the Mikuni community.

Going through Utah to Green River affords an opportunity to go by Arches and Canyonlands NP. Another highly, highly recommended route would be to cut over to Grand Junction then down to Ouray then over the pass to Silverton and down to Durango CO, the Rockies are fantastic.

Download Waze to your smartphone, great app for figuring our where the speedtraps are.

Talked to Oliver at ZSpecialties, pulled the alternator, am sending it to him and ordering a replacement plus a Napa alternator and an external voltage regulator from MSA, one of these options has to work. Thanks for all your help and recommendations

Ammeter shows slight positive, I will check the fuse on the headlight harness, ordered new alternator from Z Specialties.

Swapped from an N42 to a F54 block, just had about 200 miles or so on the swap. I'm wondering if a weak belt that is not aligned could have caused it to burn up? The pulley for the alternator is ever so slightly offset towards the rear of the car from the water pump. I'll have to check the connection to see if it is sealed, maybe water splashed on it from the rain we got yesterday while I was driving it?

I got rid of the external voltage regulator after one failed on my 260 and the battery blew eating through the wheel well. This is a ZSpecialties 125 amp alternator with internal voltage regulator, i got it about 7 years ago and have put about 5K miles on it. Not sure if it's related because it had rained and the connections may have been wet but my headlights were flickering, I have Dave Irwin's headlight harness that runs off the battery. http://www.datsunstore.com/high-output-alternator-p-1.html

On the car, hooked up to the battery terminals.

Update, went to the local Advance Auto Parts and asked them to check the electrical system. Tester says the battery's got 100% charge but is bad? Said the diodes are working in the alternator but that the voltage regulator is bad. Wondering if I need to call Oliver and order a replacement HO alternator...

I hope so, thanks for replying.

I will do that. I also have a H.O, alternator from Z Specialties and it says it requires a special belt, I emailed Oliver asking for the replacement belt part number.

Car has about 180-200 miles on it after an engine swap, took it out tonight for a spin, at a stop light while accelerating I heard the belt start to squeal. I figured, "just need to tighten it" but it kept squealing and another noise which I assumed was the belt rubbing on something happened because I started to smell burnt rubber. This went on for about 20-30 seconds or so then stopped. Next light, squeal when launching plus what seems like potential grinding which dies out at about 15 mph, no squeal when accelerating at speed. Brought it home, won't squeal just revving in the driveway but it looks like the belt is slightly misalligned to the rear at the alternator. Alternator adjustment bracket has burnt rubber residue on it to boot. Is this the alternator bearing, it's a non-AC car, a belt that needs tightening, get a replacement belt?