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back in 1994 i had a 77 with 18,000miles and IT WAS in a garage 99% of it's life. it also had the beginnings of carpet fade (. i like all of the 1st gen Z's... early ones for the raw z feel and the 75-78's for the comfort and refinement ) $0.02

i just missed buying #273-ish locally about a year ago. ZERO rust, very clean driver, original owner, hubcaps, unmolested..$7300. it was in Hemmings Motor News. granted he sounds like a stand up guy but it's a high asking price IMO

i do a lot of stop and go driving down clogged divided highways in a congested suburban area, and i gotta tell ya..having an automatic '77 with A/C sure is nice.

my hands feel dirty just reading these posts LOLOL. 72Z Dave:BTW does that frisbee glow in the dark? i swear it's a spitting image of one i had as a kid in the mid70's

up here in the northeast, eBay is about the only source for Z parts. if you're a true 'Z guy' you would already know what is rare, hard to find and NLA. basically it's buyer beware. the only reason a guy puts Datsun 240 260 280 280ZX in the parts' title is mostly because it will return more search results with 'datsun Z in the search function. i wouldn't trust the guys description of an item if it 'fits all models'. You should research the part you need and bid accordingly. just my $0.02

also check the ground connection on the steering collumn combo switch. that was my problem in a previous post 'help with headlights'

how's the clutch? could be a whirring sound from the throw out bearing if it's touching the preasure plate

you will need the hazzard switch installed for the signals to work. the FSM has a lighting diagram for each electrical system in the car. replacement flasher units are available for turn signals and hazzards at any auto parts store for ~$3.00 each

just pay the dough...if he's a good shop that specializes in Z's and his reputation is good, then the extra $ spent will be well spent on peace-of-mind...i can't tell you how many guys shaved a few dollars and gambled on a guy without a good history....then found themselves unhappy when it doesn't come out the way they wanted it to. just remember if it doesn't come out as you expect, you'll be looking at your baby's paint finish that way for MANY years to come. OR just do what i do. do all the bodywork and primer yourself, then have the guy spay it for $1500..THEN take it to a professional detailer to buff out the shine for another $500. voila! new paint on the cheap! p.s. persoanlly i try not to go too pricey on paint because i find that one day (shortly) after i reassemble the car a stone will kick up on the highway and ding a body panel anyway. just my $0.02

don't forget about the front lower body panels and grills. they're different on the 240's and 280's...and hood vents on 280's didn't exist on 240-260's

...you just need a 3.4W low profile replacement. you can get 4W low profile ones that fit correctly at the local auto parts store for $2 the 4W will be just a tad brighter. you may want to upgrade all of the bulbs in the dash if you have it all apart. you need about 10 of 'em...i forget

i know this may sound basic...but you say 'no spark..the rotor isn't turning' did you take the rotor cap off and see that the rotor isn't turning directly, or just check via plug wires.. if the rotor disconnected from the distributor shaft. i'd say you'd have to re-do the timing chain FWIW. your husband is right...ditch Marvin and find a competent mechanic

thanks for the input fellas. i think i'll stick to my trusty epoxy filler. i'm used to it and will detent the holes so the filler can grab. i would try the above techniques if i've seen them done, but going in without hands on guidance doesn't make me too comfortable.... EScanlon: i prefer epoxy filler and have not used BONDO in years. it's too weak....the epoxy filler is good stuff and is pretty tough thanks again guys!

art@nissansport: i had to SSSTTTRRREEETTCCCHHH the fenders down to mount them and had to place about 1/8" stack of washers behind the upper fender mounting screws. about 8 (yes EIGHT) hours of pulling-fitting-checking-pulling-fitting a dozen times...finally got them to fit nicely. not for the first-timer-body-man. i think the mold they must use is the inner stock metal fender 'diameter' then add 1/8" of fiberglass fender material and then the fender is dimensionally 1/4" smaller for fitment...just my $0.02

off the top of my head i would say no. they are very different. body panel covers, lenses, reverse lamp placement, etc...a big MAYBE on the wiring harness/sockets...again..just off the top of my head...

i decided to scrap the body side moldings on my 77Z and prepped the car for paint. i would like to fill the small holes with lead and may decide to fill the hatch emblem holes as well...for a cleaner look. i'm very good at using epoxy body filler and restored a couple of cars in the past with excellent long term results. i'm just very doubtful about filling a 'flat' hole with conventional filler. i've just never had to use lead in the past... if someone has experience i would greatly appreciate it! tools required, where to find a lump of lead, procedures, etc.. Thanks!

i don't have a problem with increasing values of Z parts. it will only do Z owners good in the long run. like 60's - 70's muscle cars...who knew the prices would get so high for them 10 years ago? and look at them now..

sailor bob...reinstall? ...nope..mine is in the town landfill by now, or anchoring someones boat in the bay...can't remember

looks like the P.O. brought it in to the the dealer trying to make good on a "we'll give you $2,000 trade in value for your car'! type deal...afterall it is at a nissan dealership...now the dealer is trying to get rid of it

my 77 has it. prod date 6/77. it also has a 7lb lump of steel bolted to the bottom of the diff carrier..vibration damper i assume. i just HAD to ditch it. pshycologically, the car feels 100lbs lighter..LOLOL

thanks boyblunda, but the link doesn't show photos, just two posts (text only) 240Z fan, thanks. i'll check my local junkyard and see what's available, provided 3 cars aren't sitting on top of a miata or WRX.....i also wouldn't mind using an UNpowered- power rack...i'll keep you posted.:classic:

thanks yellazed. does the steering collumn rod attach to the existing S30 coupler at the firewall? i notice that the rod is different below the engine mount in your photo. also, how about the outter tie rod ends: S30's or miata's? year miata?...or does it matter i'll comb my local junkyard this week and see what's out there thanks again

on a post below this i see that the miata (mx5)or subaru rack fits the first gen Z's. my rack has play in it (yes i've tried everything, new bucsings, tie rods, ball joints, tires....and on and on... is it easier just to get miata rack? are they direct bolt in? are they power assited, and would they work without hooking up the power steering? what year mx5's? what model/year subaru? thanks. i have a 77 Z

madkaw: it sounds like you're very close to the problem... you state that you pulled the tank a second time and found more junk in there. good chance a few flakes of rust and whatever may be in the hard lines to the mech. fuel pump and filter. i'd start there first. take off rubber lines and blow through w/ air compressor to make sure eveything is out. p.s. after redoing the suspension why was the ride 'scary'..it should be nice. ;o)

...funny thing was that it pi*@ed me off for so long i wasn't even happy when i found it...i was more like..."it's about frickin' time!"..LOLOL but yes.i'm happy now.