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...just made it home from the cleveland show...figured i'd share a few pics. p.s. WWWAAAAYYY too much rain getting there from NJ. iffy weather at best at the show on tuesday...drove home in scattered showers today. gosh, never thought i had to DETAIL my car 3 times (1. upon arrival at the hotel, 2. at the show-rained going TO it, 3. after the drive home) in 4 days !!!

my friends are: joe..yellow turbo '70 240 tony..green '75 w/ 240 bumpers

hey clive. i'm 'down the jersey shore'..i'll be heading west via the dreaded PA Tpk...to Pittsburgh visiting family there on Sunday. i'll get to Cleveland Monday, 12 noon-ish. two of my buddies are are heading out via Rt 80 (northern NJ)...i think they're leaving sunday as well..

...for the east coast nat'ls i am whew...just got my new motor yestaerday...installed all day today just in time for the show...yay!

now you said it ! ...murphy's law. i soaked my studs for 2 weeks with PB blaster 3x/day to put headers on. still broke 2 of 'em. no big deal as i had the motor out of the car on a stand...

whatever method you use to take off the manifold wouldn't concern me...you should be concerned as if what if you break a manifold stud or two....BE WARNED if some break, you're in for a glorious drilling/tapping session...

best bang for the buck i'd HAVE to recommend is 3M Underseal/Undercoating PN 08882 or 08883.~$12/can. the stuff goes on thick and wet and dries almost to a hard rubber shell in about a 2hrs...weird, but awesome. much better than generic Autozone stuff. good luck trying to scrape it off... another tidbit about it that i like is that it's nice and BLACK...not a dark-brownish color like the generic brands

all this talk about the 'boat-anchor-heavy' damper...just get rid of it...you'll never know the 'diff'-rence. i think mine is mooring a lobster boat out in the bay somewhere.... $0.02

i reuse my rivets all the time even with the pins. i just leave the pins out ~1/8" so i can pull them out with needle nosed pliers $0.02

shame on the seller for not packing it with enough padding....

bummer.

no problem. i send you a personal msg.

they'll be fine if you're staying at the stock ride height.

not sure on your rack bushing widths...but if you do indeed have a bad column, i have one for you. you shouldn't have any play from your steering wheel to your rack....

if the u joints are TIGHT...leave 'em alone IMO

p.s...i'm swaying a bit toward Rebello's 3.0 stroker, hence the reason for the clutch recommendations...

...so i did a SCDA track day last tuesday. had a good time! three 30min sessions...didn't abuse the motor...just nice fast cruising really....ran the car between 3000 and 4000rpm hitting 5000 on occasion. car has 87,000 original miles, engine was finely tuned including valves, timing, oil, etc.... when i got home the motor had a little (very little) noise coming from the lower end, up front. drove the car last night, came home, idling in the garage...sounded like M1A1 tank. grumbly, noisy, loud grinding at the front/lower end. guess i'll be on the phone with Rebello et.al. tomorrow photos are engine before...Yay!! and after today...Uhg!!!! i'm going to go with an L28block (1975Z) and keep my E88 head with roundtop SU's. i have a 280b ZX trans, and a 77Z 3.54 R-180 in the car already. i would like to do a lightweight flywheel. can anyone recommend a good clutch. i'm thinking centerforce I or II? thanks for recommendations

..contact Dave at thisnthat2@frontiernet.net he's worth the $100 if you're hesitant about taking the combo switch apart . he'll rebuild and polish the whole thing inside and out

after beating on the dust cap, you may have to remove the wheel from the hub and put the cap on...then resintall the wheel. seems mine needed to go that way, because there isn't any clearance for the cap tabs between the hub and rim. basically: remove the wheel, beat down the dust cover, pop cap onto rim, reinstall wheel

careful with MSA nuts and bolts. make sure you ask them if they are from Nissan with the correct spec hardness. 1/2 the ones they give you (for other applications) are cheap ones from home depot...and are standard thread (not metric) to boot

tip for the future...remove and assemble ONE side at a time that way you have the other as a reference

my approach justifies my procrastination since i'm 80% deaf in my left ear.....plus...i spent enough time and money on my car for now:bunny:

i have a very slight clunk in my 240. only when i start out in reverse, then stop...shift to forward 1st gear. however, after reading a lot of posts on this issue, i'm going to wait it out until it gets REALLY LOUD and OBVIOUS.. LOLLOLLOL

better off just replacing. continuity MAY register on your multimeter even though the fuse IS bad...they can corrode in the endcaps, where you can see and can have some of the fuse element still touch the end cap, but can't handle the amperage... $0.03

me personally, i love COLOR on a car. the gold with black one (asking $29K) for sale on eBay a few weeks ago is my favorite combination for early Z's. the white with red reminds me too much of an '83 RX-7 i owned in white 'n red. i hated it..... as a collector i had a 98-ish point 77Z with 8,000miles with copper color paint over butterscotch interior. the car was so nice i didn't care what color it was...